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Saddles do come in differnt widths, generally a narrow fit for racing snakes and a wider fit for those built for comfort, not for speed. A decent bike shop should be able to estimate a suitable width (and no doubt there are online resources for saddle fit estimates).
The width of the saddle should ideally match with the width of your seatbones – there’s not really any connection to your build. An easy way to measure the width of your sitbones is to get a fresh piece of cardboard (i.e. not compressed) and put that on a flat bench. Sit on the carboard with a similar lean to how you’d ride a bike and then afterwards, the indentations should be obvious in the cardboard.
Fignon's ghost wrote:
Thanks. I’m pretty sure 105 will do for me. However, I’m on a mission to test out your 105 conclusion.
Go for it – I haven’t seen any reports of 105 cranks breaking
Another vote for Caffelatex
Another vote for Caffelatex here.
Fignon's ghost wrote:
Thanks. Oh well. Will have to chalk it up as a product failure and not Hulkamania.I’ve never used anything other than Ultegra or 105. Any alternative suggestions ?
105 should be fine – it’s only Ultegra and Dura-Ace that have the problem as they’re hollow bonded.
I reckon it’s fairly common
I reckon it’s fairly commonhttps://road.cc/content/tech-news/shimano-claims-no-design-problem-hollowtech-cranks-287827
https://road.cc/content/forum/psa-sometimes-creak-needs-be-investigated-287149
They seem to have made up a new road sign.Have they got a warning sign for BMWs or is it just Fords?
Bloody sheep, why should they have their own expensive road, bet those flocks don’t even have to pass a droving test…I once got overtaken by a sports car driven by a sheep in a tight swimsuit.
It was a lamb-bikini
Dynaplug looks good if it does as it says (reacts with Stans sealant to seal that is).edit: I’m thinking of Stans Darts, I’ll look at Dynaplug.
Their Racer kit is nice, though a bit pricey: http://www.dynaplug.com/racer.html
I like the way they use a pointy tip to push through the tyre (which you just leave in place) as I’ve tried a cheaper kit that uses a tiny fork to push the anchovy in and I just ended up breaking one of the fork prongs off.
Just seen that Dynaplug do a carbon fibre version of their racer kit – I think I can resist the allure of that.
Just had an idle search on eBay and there’s tons of Dynaplug alternatives on there. Was intrigued by these bad boys: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/304747839252
I’d add more sealant, inflate
I’d add more sealant, inflate and spin the tyre round a few times to see if the cuts seal up. If that doesn’t work, then try some anchovies.
HeadDown wrote:
Thanks. I didn’t search that item specifically as you’ve got to know it’s a problem/search term initially, I guess! Don’t understand it though (hence not searched). How can turning the wheel so the valves are at the bottom drain out sealant – depends what it drains out of (presumably you want it drained out of the valve itself), and from the position it states for the wheel that can only be draining it out of the tyre entirely. Perhaps I’ve misunderstood, but it’s not suggesting surely that you drain your sealant out of the wheel just to add a few blasts of air (which I’ll probably do every week)?Turning the wheel so the valve is in the 6 o’clock position should allow any sealant that may be in the valve to drip out of it into the tyre. I don’t bother with that as there’s rarely any sealant in the valve, but that might be because I use MilkIt valves which have an extra seal.
Schrader & Presta are the other way round.I can never remember which one is which. I tried to associate “Presta” with “pressing”, but both valves involve pressing the core bit so it doesn’t really help.
You can just use an ordinary
You can just use an ordinary pump to top them up and inflating when the bead has already been popped into place. Usually the only time you need a special tubeless pump (or air canister) is when the bead isn’t readily sealing and you want to put a load of pressure in quickly to seat the bead (often with a satisfying “bang”). It’s rare for sealant to come out of the valve when inflating them, so you shouldn’t have any issues.
I hadn’t heard of detachable valves before, though I expect they’ve got some kind of seal so that sealant doesn’t come out.
Found a pic of the valve:
Modern love gets me to the
Modern love gets me to the church on time
It does sound interesting, the only problem for the middleaged real ale fan is that fitting one’s daily pints in at 9AM tends to be frowned upon by employers, spouses and police officers…That’s one of the benefits of “working” from home
I reckon the culprit for all
I reckon the culprit for all these driverless car crashes has been found: https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/av/uk-england-nottinghamshire-65857348