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How about a disk rotor
How about a disk rotor centrelock tool? Your cassette tool may work, but I found that I had to buy an extra tool (IIRC my cassette tool didn’t have a big enough hole to accommodate the thru-axle).
It’s a thing; selfish cyling exists some just don’t want to admit it. There are more selfish drivers than cycllists though.There’s certainly selfish cyclists around, just like there’s selfish pedestrians and roller-skaters too.
However, cycling in a single file of 15 is not selfish – it’s just using the road. I’d consider it far more selfish if it was a line of 15 cyclists being stationary and preventing other traffic from moving, but that’s more likely with motor vehicles due to their size. Strangely, people consider drivers “stuck in traffic” to be the victims rather than active participants in selfishly hogging the road.
Ultimately, it’s down to the
Ultimately, it’s down to the consumer to decide if they are prepared to pay for the goods at the price specified. Competition is often broken in markets as there’s nearly always a benefit to being the biggest player and information is often hidden from customers, so the idea of a “free market” is somewhat of a myth.
I had hoped that 3d printing technology would democratise the production of physical goods in a similar fashion to how open source software took over the world, but it’s much cheaper for a factory to produce goods using more or less traditional methods than for people to get designs 3d printed.
You’re not alone. Many have had similar experiences, for example someone in my club was given their bike back with no hydraulic fluid in their brake lines (not Halfords I hasten to add).They didn’t let that stop them, though
One of the main reasons that
One of the main reasons that I do almost all my own maintenance is the length of time that bike shops can take to do simple jobs. Most of the time, I can plan to do a job, get the appropriate equipment and then carry it all out within a couple of hours – bike shops invariably take days to do anything and weeks if they discover that a component needs replacing and they don’t have it in stock.
I certainly wouldn’t be trusting Halfords with working on my bike judging from various reports of their staff.
I have seen motorway programmes and milk is not good environmentally, can’t have it just going into ditches and drains. More disruption for the clean up.How do we dispose of wasted milk in the house (if my son doesn’t use up all the milk he’s put on his cereal, for example)? – am I supposed to flush it down the loo or put it down the sink?
I’d just throw it a whey
HoldingOn wrote:
Only people with perfect vision can spot the “m” in this list of “n”s Loads of those have been popping up for me.So, do you spot the “m”?
Pointless crying as the M6 is blocked:Legendairy
Sounds like air bubbles in
Sounds like air bubbles in the hydraulics and bleeding them is probably the answer which is not particularly difficult with the right tools. There’s some bleeding kits easily available to match the brake system, but make sure you don’t mix different types of fluid (e.g. mineral oil and DOT fluid).
Mackowski wrote:
Thanks. Great idea, will definitely do that. Just need to order something big to get large enough piece of cardboard lol. Thank youAlso, playing with the saddle tilt is well worth a shot. I have my saddle tilted forwards about 2° but as I have my handlebars low, I tend to get numbness in my hands instead – it takes some experimentation to get things sorted and you’ll likely find that your flexibility will increase as you get used to a cycling position.
Saddles do come in differnt widths, generally a narrow fit for racing snakes and a wider fit for those built for comfort, not for speed. A decent bike shop should be able to estimate a suitable width (and no doubt there are online resources for saddle fit estimates).The width of the saddle should ideally match with the width of your seatbones – there’s not really any connection to your build. An easy way to measure the width of your sitbones is to get a fresh piece of cardboard (i.e. not compressed) and put that on a flat bench. Sit on the carboard with a similar lean to how you’d ride a bike and then afterwards, the indentations should be obvious in the cardboard.
Fignon's ghost wrote:
Thanks. I’m pretty sure 105 will do for me. However, I’m on a mission to test out your 105 conclusion.
Go for it – I haven’t seen any reports of 105 cranks breaking
Another vote for Caffelatex
Another vote for Caffelatex here.
Fignon's ghost wrote:
Thanks. Oh well. Will have to chalk it up as a product failure and not Hulkamania.I’ve never used anything other than Ultegra or 105. Any alternative suggestions ?
105 should be fine – it’s only Ultegra and Dura-Ace that have the problem as they’re hollow bonded.