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March 10, 2017 at 9:54 am in reply to: Eton, 7-Mar, 2017: cycling copper carrying a cup of coffee #888523
hawkinspeter
I don’t see a problem with
I don’t see a problem with that. Worst case is that the PC drops his coffee or falls off his bike and learns to be a bit more careful in future. Maybe he’s using it as a close-pass test – drivers that spill his coffee get pulled over for a talking to.
hawkinspeter
I prefer a rucksack to
I prefer a rucksack to panniers. I’ve got myself a Proviz reflective rucksack which seems nice and comfortable and lights up brilliantly.
With a rucksack, you don’t need a heavy pannier rack and often a rucksack is lighter than an equivalent pannier bag. However, you get to have a weight on your back which can be uncomfortable if it’s not positioned correctly. I like to think that it trains you to minimise sideways movements if you’ve got a weight on your back.
hawkinspeter
I tried a similar pair from
I tried a similar pair from AliExpress but they were really badly made. A crack developed from just tightening up the stem bolts to 4nm so I got my money back (despite the manufacturer claiming it was just a surface crack).
hawkinspeter
Bikebikebike wrote:If you have a very long beard, then it can obscure your front light. More of a problem around the trendy parts of east London.It’s when you get it caught in your front wheel that things get a bit hairy.
hawkinspeter
I’m running these at the
I’m running these at the moment and I like them. I’ve only just started running tubeless on the rear one and it works a treat. Initially, I struggled with getting tyres on and off these wheels, but I found a technique that makes it a lot easier. Move all of the tyre beads towards the centre of the rim which gives the tyre just enough room to make all the difference.
hawkinspeter
arckuk wrote:The not-so good is that the pull string closure, while okay, isn’t as snug as the ratchet/velcro combination in typical shoes, but as I say, it’s probably good enough. Also, the rubber heel doesn’t seem particularly thick, and I have some doubts about its longevity, but I guess we’ll see in time.That reminds me – the pull string closure caused me to punch myself in the eye a few weeks back when it suddenly snapped. Remember kids, always pull the cord tight away from your face.
hawkinspeter
I’ve got the Northwave Artic
I’ve got the Northwave Artic Commuter version (SPD clips on my road bike) and they’re great shoes. When the temperature gets down to freezing, my feet will end up (after an hour or two) getting cold, but I put the blame on only wearing tights and thin merino socks and not anything more substantial.
Definitely go for a bigger size – I’ve found that Northwave tend to under-size their shoes.
hawkinspeter
Yep, sounds like you’ve got
Yep, sounds like you’ve got the right idea. I’m not so sure about the herky-jerky pedalling – I prefer a smooth pedalling style, but that needs some experience.
Another tip – don’t spend too long practising. 45 minutes should be plenty, but needs to be every day to get your muscle memory working.
hawkinspeter
Also lots of advice here:
Also lots of advice here: http://www.juggling.org/help/circus-arts/unicycling/starting.html
hawkinspeter
Unicycling is probably closer
Unicycling is probably closer to learning to walk than it to cycling.
First, you need to get over the fear of falling as when you go forwards, you’ll be continuously falling forwards and ideally keeping the wheel moving as fast as you fall. If you practise falling off the front, you should be able to easily “step off” it and land on your feet. Falling off backwards is when you tend to actually hurt yourself (or hitting your shin with a pedal).
I learnt by positioning myself with my back to a wall, mounting the uni (using the wall for stability) and then launching/falling forwards and slowly learning how to pedal for a few strokes. A smooth concrete floor is preferable.
However, I’ve seen a teaching technique that involves practising a step-over technique first. Position the unicycle as if you’re about to do a free-mount – saddle in your groin, wheel in front and one foot on a pedal that’s down and towards you. Put weight on the pedal to push the uni under you and swing your other foot forwards as if taking a step (a free-mount would involve putting that foot on the other pedal – takes some practise). Practise that with both feet until it feels like a simple flowing movement – this should be very similar to a dismount (extra points for catching the saddle behind you). After that, try using a wall/support to mount the uni and launch yourself forwards until you get the hang of it.
I reckon that you’re not leaning forwards (falling) enough, which is why you’ve got no forwards momentum when your foot hits the 6 o’clock position. Keep in mind “controlled falling”.
Keep with it, it’s a lot of fun when you get to grips with it.
hawkinspeter
There’s not much dismantling
There’s not much dismantling you can do to a front mech. I’d recommend leaving it alone as they can be tricky to position correctly once you’ve taken it off (and then realised there’s nothing else to do to it).
hawkinspeter
I always try to avoid using
I always try to avoid using “swear” words here, but I don’t have any problem with other people using them. As far as I know, all languagues feature swearing and it’s a valuable part of communication (although it becomes diluted when used all the time).
Road.cc seems to strike a good balance between restricting users’ comments and not being overly abusive. I don’t think we need to change it at all.
hawkinspeter
Are you sure that isn’t a
Are you sure that isn’t a giraffe?
October 11, 2016 at 7:50 am in reply to: Guidance for drivers as well as cyclists for using the roads safely? #879735
hawkinspeter
Overtaking a cyclist needs
Overtaking a cyclist needs some consideration. Don’t overtake if you’re immediately turning left. Don’t overtake if the road narrows (e.g. A central reservation). Also, indicate ahead of time – especially if you’re waiting at traffic lights.
hawkinspeter
unconstituted wrote:A cunning ploy
Cheaper (sub £400) power meters and cheaper (eg. sub £400 50mm) carbon wheelsets and UK based.
But those are true engineering challenges. Pretty much most other stuff is just tat with an app.
Cheaper power meters are almost here. I like the idea of power meters that fit into your shoes: http://www.brimbrothers.com/
What I want to see is a rear view camera that links up to a real-time display; either on your phone or a separate display (maybe even a HUD).
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