Forum Replies Created
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I’d be in favour of CAZs etc being a layer on Google Maps. I’d be in favour of drivers being able to receive a text message if they were due to pay a charge.
The Euro classifications listed in the criteria don’t mean anything to me:
“Euro 4, 5 and 6 petrol vehicles, roughly 2006 upwards
Euro 6 diesel vehicles, roughly end of 2015 onwards”https://www.bristol.gov.uk/residents/streets-travel/bristols-caz/charges-and-vehicle-checker
Approaching from the M5 south, you’d have to drive quite a long way around 3 sides of a rectangle to get into the CAZ; if you’re coming from the M4 and went M32, you’re literally in the city centre – and what sort of petrol old banger are you running for it to be an issue at all?
You can put your reg number into https://www.gov.uk/guidance/driving-in-a-clean-air-zone and it’ll tell you which zones to be careful of.
Personally, I think the allowed amount of pollution is way too high. I propose an alternative measurement scheme – leave your car running in a normal sized garage for 30 minutes with the driver sat there and see if they can survive the fumes.
You prompted me to take a look at where Bristol airport is, esp. re. existing railways. (Our local airport, Leeds Bradford is inaccessible by rail but there’s much talk about extending the line and building a new station at great expense.)Why don’t they just relocate Bristol Airport to the ruddy great disused runway at Filton? Railway within yards, Motorway within minutes.
It’d get in the way of the stadium if that ever gets completed.
But then they’d have to drive to Temple Meads (because they’d have to drive), so they’d still go through the CAZ.Better to wait until the Bristol Underground is built, surely?
Can’t they get the train to Temple Meads and then the Underground for the rest of the journey?
Signage for Bristol Airport from the M5 sends you along the A4 Portway and then the A370 toward Weston-super-Mare and the airport. This route takes you through the Clean Air Zone, and there have been lots of complaints from tourists about it. DfT has said that the motorway is several miles from the CAZ (true) and that they won’t put up CAZ-warning signs that far away.With the benefit of local knowledge, you can go along the A369 and the back lanes to get to the airport without going through the CAZ, but it’s a much more fiddly route, not intended for heavy volumes of traffic, and takes longer.
I don’t know why they don’t just take the train to the airport…
Even the sky itself is copyright Google. (was looking for chemtrails).Burn the land and boil the sea
You can’t take the sky from me
Jogle wrote:
[quote=Jogle][b]Car crashes into wall on Oxford street in ‘hit and run'[/b] The wall wasn’t wearing hi-viz or a helmet, they should have put the cones out before the crash so that the wall was visible https://www.oxfordmail.co.uk/news/23561378.car-crashes-wall-oxford-street-hit-run/%5B/quote%5D
I reckon they swerved to avoid the hi-viz cones
Why did I leave my pic-a-nic
Why did I leave my pic-a-nic basket in the car?
I’d say trust chain manufacturers to put the right stuff on their chains…By all means do what you want, but chain manufacturers don’t care about cleaning their chains after a ride.
Hirsute wrote:
I thought knc were reusable a few times and Shimano not. I bought 2 kmc chains for £20 and then decided it can be a consumable item.I bet the Shimano links are no different to the KMC ones, but carry a spare pair of links for if/when they get too worn whilst out on a ride. I like to carry spare links anyhow as you never know if you might want them and they don’t weigh you down too much.
IanMSpencer wrote:
I think the theory is probably to do with “end of life”. A worn chain will not sit on a new cassette, and a worn cassette will skip on a new chain, but an old chain will sit on an old cassette. So by rotating chains you theoretically extend the time that cassette wear matches chain wear. I find that 3 chains to a cassette is a good ratio, and changing around the indicated lifespan as per spec. gives you a non-skip change. As I use the whole life of the chain, rotation doesn’t help. I’ve not noticed the 3rd, most mismatched, chain last a shorter time than the first, so the premise of matching wear to reduce wear doesn’t seem to offer significant gains. The trouble with rotating chains is the disconnecting and reconnecting. Unless you buy quick links specifically designed to be broken and reconnected (e.g. Wipperman), you should be replacing the quick link, so any wear savings are lost through replacing pins or quick links. Although most people do break and replace quick links like Shimano ones, you aren’t supposed to.When I was mucking around with wax treatments, I re-used KMC quick links and they seemed fine up to about 10 reuses.
Perhaps I wax the chain during the drier summer months and oil it when it starts to get wet again.There does seem to be one area of agreement though – I’m definitely not cleaning my chain sufficiently!
Probably best to not mix the two methods – treat yourself to a different chain.
marmotte27 wrote:
”Wax instead of oil is recommended as it doesn’t turn into a grinding paste by sticking to the grit and dust.” The stuff that’s on the chain when new is far more akin to an oil than to a wax. The black gunk from worn metal appears on a new chain within a few dozen kilometres, I don’t think that that’s something to do with what you put on the chain yourself.New chains come with oil on them. To get the benefits of wax, you have to remove as much of that oil as possible and ultrasonic cleaners are sometimes used for that puprose. Once the chain is as oil-free as possible is when you put the wax/wax-based lube on them (it’s not likely to stick to an oiled chain) and that should remain relatively clean. The main disadvantage of wax treatments is that they don’t last as long, especially in the wet.
ohhh – look at the design in that chainring!Are chains not meant to look that lovely natural brown colour?
I usually give them a quick lick of hammerite to get them looking like that
That’s one theory; I find “using” is what causes the worst chain wear. I once left a spare bike in my mother’s garage for four years, and when I returned to it the chain was in exactly the same state as it had been left. Not using is far and away the best way to prevent chain wear.Make sure you store it in a climate controlled environment – look what happened to my chain
