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37 comments
A noise like a chain clunking into position you say?
Hmm, mines started doing that noise. Will check the crank condition carefully.
I had this last year, as others have said, a known problem.
I am not a strong rider and tend to spin up hills rather than grind. My suspicion is that I used my Giant Defy through winter in some fgrim conditions - but when doesn't a British rider not ride in those?
As to the point of keeping checking, "bottom bracket creaks" have turned out to be wheel bearings, freehub bearings, cranks, headsets, saddles, dry chains and so on across my riding group, you need to do careful elimination.
The crank was easy enough to spot once of decided to look properly, grasping the crank and applying a lot of sideways force.
This week on a ride the shout of "Mechanical" went up, and a rider said he thought his bottom bracket had gone. I saw a lot of flex in the frame, but no clunking or odd movement. The rest of the group were preparing to remount, but it didn't make sense, so I looked back along the drive train then grasped the rear wheel which wobbled alarmingly, "Bearings gone" I declared, but then wobbling the wheel, I thought too much movement - broken axle? Looked again and the chain-stay weld on his PlanetX titanium bike, about 9 years old had entirely failed. He walked home.
The lesson is, don't guess, prove.
Well, just went for a little ride and I think I can cope with the gearing - it doesn't seem to make any difference if you always get off and push as soon as there's an uphill gradient.
Annoyingly, I've still got some noises from my drivetrain, so the next step is to replace the chain and cassette which was on my agenda (possibly change the bottom bracket bearing too).
Got my new crankset and fitted it and adjusted my front derailleur for the different height (also changed the settings in the Shimano software, though I think the synchro shifts are in the same place anyway).
Unfortunately, my new pedals are coming from Bikester.co.uk and it looks like they're being sent from outside the UK, so I've now ordered a pair from ProBikeKit.co.uk which should arrive tomorrow. I'll just return the slowest pair.
How are you going to work out which pedals are slower?
Obviously, I'll fit the left from one set and the right from the other set and after a few pedal rotations, I can measure how much one crank has caught up with the other.
Your comment obviously has a vital couple of watts saving over mine.
It's not always a race!
Protip: it's always a race (unless you get overtaken in which case you're on a recovery ride, you've got blisters, tyres are running flat and you're worried your crank will snap if you give it some welly)
Are you going to be testing them in the wind tunnel?
Ah, it's back.
Which version of ultegra is this one ?
FC6800
<gulp>
It seems to be an issue with all their hollow bonded Ultegra and Dura-Ace sets.
I've had my right-hand crank sheer off just like that on three separate ultegra cranksets now - twice on the same bike within about 14 months. All bikes are well maintained, not its not a neglect issue. Dura-Ace also suffers this problem. Only way to guarantee it never happening is to switch to 105 which has a solid crank-arm and isn't two separate pieces bonded together (as far as I know).
Bloody hell, that could have been really nasty. Van-man gets a bad press on this site so thank you for adding a little bit of balance by reminding us most road users are decent most of the time.
If you're riding a bike with fishing tackle for gears what do you expect?
I've got a fairly significant click that I can't find the source of. Time to inspect the crank properly I think
Blimey, that could have been very nasty. Seems to becoming a common problem with these cranks, well explained in this video https://youtu.be/FkEkQV-zK0s?t=181.
What are those black dot stickers near the pedal end? Did you get cracking there?
The black bits are the ends of a black-reflective sticker that I'd put on both cranks - not part of the crank itself.
Something similar to these
Good idea for reflective placement!
Perhaps Shimano have gone a step too far in the quest for lightness with epoxy bonding a crankset.
I just removed the left crank and have had a close look at both cranks - no sign of the bonding coming loose or any other cracks that I can see. Probably metal fatigue from where I accelerate as hard as possible away from lights etc.
I've also put a couple of those stickers onto my wheel rims - you can just about see one of them.
Common problem, see https://www.instagram.com/thanksshimano/
Always seems to be higher end Ultegra and Dura-Ace
Apparently (after watching HoarseMann's link to https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FkEkQV-zK0s&t=181s) that's due to whether it's hollow bonded or hollow forged. The 105s, Tiagras etc. aren't breaking as they're hollow forged, but the pricier ones use bonding. I'm now wondering if I should have bought a 105 in replacement, but I've already ordered another Ultegra which should arrive tomorrow. I'll just have to keep an eye out for any cracks forming, especially if a new creak/click happens.
Well, it's not a wrong choice to favour performance over durability and as you say, you'll know what to look out for now.
Hope your injuries are not too bad but a for that chainset, in the words of Edmond Blackadder, it rhymes with "clucking bell". That could have been very nasty.
Thanks.
I think I lead a charmed life - I could hardly have been closer to home and I've had worse injuries trying to remove a pedal. I only bothered putting a plaster on my knuckle when I went to bed as it was still weeping (for the lost crank).
Talking of pedals, I tried to remove the pedal from the broken crank without any luck, so I'm going to go for a pair of PD-ES600s to replace my old, stuck PD-A600s.
weeping for the 3 months lead time to buy a replacement chainset
Tempted to get some of these, affix to front and back edges of the cranks, also see if I can fix to the SPD and SPD SL pedals (because, the law).
It would certainly be hard to criticise a cyclist for no refletives on the pedals if the entire crank arm was glowing.
Merlin's got some in stock: https://www.merlincycles.com/shimano-ultegra-r8000-chainset-11-speed-102855.html
(I went for 175mm 39/53)
53/39 - they make 'em tough in Bristol.
Looks like I will be checking my cranks regularly from now on !
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