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I don’t think it would be an
I don’t think it would be an easy mod to make without a new derailleur.Would a different 7 speed derailleur have a b-screw? 7speed probably isn’t a priority for manufacturers in this world of 10, 11, 12 speed so I’m not sure. Though having just looked, my lad’s 8 speed Altus mech has a b-screw, and if it’s a friction shifter then an 8 speed mech should work still. The Altus mech has a fairly long cage too.
Sounds like a great project, getting an old machine up and running again for more use 🙂
Merlin is fairly local to me.
Merlin is fairly local to me. They’ve always been fine either mail order or when I’ve been in store. I haven’t had a problem with any of them, the odd warranty issue I have had whether it be Merlin, Planet X, Rutland Cycling, Hunt, Evans, Wiggle, CRC…. They’ve all sorted it. I think if you order mail order then you have to accept that any issues might take longer to sort out than being able to walk in store, and sometimes words on emails get misunderstood or don’t come across as intended.Doesn’t mean you should get shonky or absent after sales service with mail order, but when you’ve just saved who knows how much off list price then sometimes you have to be more patient or suck up having to return an item in its entirety.
I use an old stem clamped on
I use an old stem clamped on to the steerer as a guide. Doesn’t have to be factory square, I’ve had it a few mm off over the years and it’s fine – so long as you can still preload the headset. Once cut and fitted, a 5mm spacer above the stem usually helps with the gap needed between steerer and top cap too if the cut is a bit wonky.The rougher/coarser your saw,
The rougher/coarser your saw, there is more chance of fraying the steerer tube too, the guide stem helps from this perspective as you finish the cut. Or insulation tape. I’ve had steerers where a whole shard has split off over an inch down the steerer when I havent used tape or a stem to hold it together ?Sitting on a home trainer is
Sitting on a home trainer is somewhat different to riding outdoors. I’ve been happy for hours on most saddles I’ve ever tried outside but 1.5hours is about my limit indoors. Outside, you might not feel it or be making conscious judgements but you’re moving the bike beneath you, adjusting for corners, potholes, gear changes etc. These micro adjustments make a saddle a different proposition outside compared to indoors where you are likely sat in the same position most of the time. Yeah you might shuffle a little or stand up occasionally but it’s not the same. The saddle I use on bikes outdoors I don’t think I would want to use indoors. I have a slightly more padded one with a cut out indoors.I think trying them on the static bike first will lead to you discounting a lot of saddles that would be very good outside.
Oh and one of those tubeless
Oh and one of those tubeless tyre inflator cannisters makes the job immeasurably easier. Never a problem seating tyres with that. Well worth the investment.I’ve fitted tubeless to
I’ve fitted tubeless to probably 10pairs of wheels over the last few years. Found them pretty much fit and forget. If you take your time getting the rim tape right then it’s fine. Sometimes I put the rim tape on and then inflate the tyre with a tube over night to make sure the tape is well stuck down. Other times I haven’t bothered. I usually some wood glue (or “Copydex” equivalent) on the valve seat.Its been proven they have a lower rolling resistance which is important to me as I do a bit of TT and road race. But it’s the lack of punctures I like. The only one I’ve had sealed enough to get me home without having to change a tube in or repair it. I don’t bother topping up unless I am changing the tyre for a reason, you can hear sealant sloshing round within the wheel much longer than the recommended “top up every 3 months”. Good to know pinch punctures not an issue either.
I’m a fan and just fit and forget them. Hutchinson, Vittoria and previously Schwalbe Pro Ones but I think there are better available now
Unless you’re going for the
Unless you’re going for the GP5000’s I would choose something else above the 4Season. I’ve found the 4Season sluggish, no better than my other tyres for puncture resistance and not especially grippy in the wet. Not a very supple tyre either.I like all the Hutchinson Fusion tyres in the 11storm compound and have All Season, Performance and Galaktik variants across my bikes.
The flatter the road, the
The flatter the road, the less difference weight makes. Drafting will be much more likely to be the difference in this case. You can easily save a third of your energy drafting someone else. It can be proven by calculation and in the real world. I’ve been on rides with similarly fit people (i.e. similar power ranges), and they’re doing tempo power on the front and I’m barely doing low aerobic. So could be say 270w on the front and 200w in the draft. As per other posts, rider size/shape alone will make an aero difference too.Also, are the figures Strava estimates or genuine power data? Different power meters, even from the same brand can be a few percent different.
Get something that puts the
Get something that puts the contact points in a similar position to the bike you’ve currently got? Sure, top tubes slope a bit more now, more seat post showing, different length stems, but if you get yourself in the same position then the reduced weight and improved performance will be there regardless.When I change my set up to more upright (endurance), I actually find it more uncomfortable than a longer lower stretched position.
I wouldn’t worry about the marketing badge, Emondas, TCRs, Super Six’s etc etc are all comfy/compliant enough nowadays and also starting to take wider tyres. Nothing will be that fragile that you can’t take it along a canal towpath or cinder track either
There won’t be any real
There won’t be any real noticeable difference between performance on 5800 calipers Vs R8000. I have both 105, Ultegra and DuraAce calipers and performance is more dependent on cable set up, wheel rims (Exalith are excellent!) and brake pad choice.Just use loose ball bearings
Just use loose ball bearings – and I dare say that is what any shop mechanic would do too.So long as the balls are the same size it makes no difference.
There can be a difference
There can be a difference between disc and rim but I would never change my route if the weather changed for the worse regardless of being in the mountains or not.
Indeed I have ridden in the Alps and Pyrenees in the rain on rim brakes and not worried at all.May be it depends on the specific rims and pads but on the bikes I have, I can lock my wheels whether rim brakes bike or disc brakes bike in the wet or dry.
If its a summer bike, or good
If its a summer bike, or good weather bike, I don’t think disc brakes are there yet so far as being consistently quiet and rub free. So I’d go rim brake.Disc brakes are good for winter when it doesn’t matter about the rubbing, grinding and howling.
Either rim or disc have enough power regardless of conditions and anyone that says they don’t probably needs to look at their set up.
Ha ha, love it #4
Ha ha, love it #4 🙂Rollers are a good fun way to break up the monotony of indoor sessions and quite a skill to get to one handed and no handed!
