Forum Replies Created
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Always been disappointed with
Always been disappointed with Gatorskins…. As mentioned they don’t seem to have rubber that is better suited to cold wet conditions than “normal” tyres and yet I’ve also had as many punctures on them as with any other tyre. Didn’t I read somewhere that normal Gatorskins (not the hardshell) don’t have any more puncture protection than say a GP4000?I’d probably avoid 4 Seasons too, again because having ridden those also the rubber doesn’t seem any better for cold winter and wet conditions than a GP5000 or any other similar tyre.
So if it was Conti I’d go for GP5000 or if not Conti then I would recommend Hutchinson 11storm tyres, either the performance or all season version. I’ve run the tubeless version but the non-tubeless would be the same compound and should be similarly grippy.
Spacer tool would work but
Spacer tool would work but assuming you haven’t got issues with sticky pistons/seals and don’t have rotors that are out of true too muchSounds like your pistons aren
Sounds like your pistons aren’t perhaps retracting enough? How long have you been running them? Could the seals around the pistons need a squirt of silicon spray so they can slide back a bit easier?Not that I have to forecast
Not that I have to forecast bike delivery timescales but I do have to forecast in my line of work and it can be one of the most demoralising things to forecast based on information you know is unlikely to be right, and it’s outside your control, but it’s the only information you’ve got.I doubt Ribble will be making up the delivery dates, they’ll be based on the forecast from their supplier and I bet updates from their suppliers are equally as tardy. They could add a week, a month, 6months to the delivery date and who knows what would be right at this time?
Customer service could be a bit better perhaps but whoever is advising your delivery date probably wants to give you a revised date when they say “sorry the delivery has just gone back” rather than admitting they just don’t know because their supplier / shipping company can’t tell them either.
I don’t think the FSA
I don’t think the FSA document tells you much other than what FSA crank to pair with which FSA BB? Even though the spindle might be the same 24mm, some cranks use spacers to remove side to side playYou (one) take risks every
You (one) take risks every time you sit on a bike or even step out the door and I’d hazard a guess that no single bike component is immune from potential failure. Cranks probably a worse one to fail I agree but I wouldn’t mind betting most other brands of crank have failed before now too regardless of whether it made the press.Are 105 crank arms any different in construction to Ultegra? I know the Tiagra ones are solid but 105 are a lot lighter so are they hollow and liable to the same mode of failure too?
I’d suggest for most cranks
I’d suggest for most cranks you will need a matching brand (or after market) BB. Not sure if Token do a bb called the Ninja (?) that is compatible across multiple cranksets, but can’t remember if that suits BB86 and clearly you’d have to buy the new bb to start with.Personally I wouldn’t worry about tales of Shimano cranks snapping. Cos who goes online and posts *sensational* pictures of Shimano cranks still in one piece?? Thousands if not millions of happy users on Shimano cranks still I would suggest, their cranks aren’t vaporising as we speak 😉
A quick look at the geometry
A quick look at the geometry charts suggest the top tube for both 54cm Emonda and Madone are the same and general geometry similar if not identical. The size guide I’ve seen online suggests 54cm goes up to 5ft9, the 56cm accommodates anyone from 5 ft8 to 5ft11.So either looks fine – if you know and like the 54cm Emonda, I’d stick with a 54cm Madone
The tyre will stretch across
The tyre will stretch across the internal gap so don’t get too hung up on external width of the rim in comparison to tyre width.The 25mm tyre I have on one wheel is nearer to 27mm wide and the 28mm I have on the same model of rim is nearer to 29-30mm.
I’ve raced on GP5000 in 28mm
I’ve raced on GP5000 in 28mm width (I’m 70kg before we get on to any kind of rider weight debate 😉 )and it wasn’t the tyres holding me back! I’d probably buy either 25 or 28 depending on which were cheapest or available at the time. Or as others have suggested the ones which fit your frame clearances and wheel width. GP5000 are a fantastic tyre, I think they felt noticeably better (faster/easier rolling) than the Hutchinson Fusion and Vittoria Corsa’s I had on othe bikes.I wouldn’t go as far as 30mm GP5000 as I know it’s a different sort of tyre but the Spec Roubaix tubeless I have in 30/32 is somewhat sluggish and seems to lose the zip of a narrower road tyre.
What is defective about it?
What is defective about it? Does it need a whole new lever? Caliper?I have SRAM red Etap 11speed too and am quite concerned about lack of spares when the time comes that something breaks!
Not that I necessarily
Not that I necessarily believe this, but I read somewhere that carbon rims wear better than alloy. I think it probably depends as much on what brake pads you use and how often you pick out the shards of rim material (the metal splinters you can clearly see in the case of alloy rims) that get embedded in the pads.The braking on more recent carbon rims is fine in the wet.
Yep, I ran a 10speed Ultegra
Yep, I ran a 10speed Ultegra chainset with 11speed 105 gears and no problems. Also ran 11speed chainset with 10speed gears fine tooAs per Simon’s comment, it
As per Simon’s comment, it will still be relevant – the 2018 edition was only 3 years ago.However, I don’t know if it has changed since the version I bought years and years ago, as back then it was very much based on high volume training (lots of hours) and unless you’re verging on Elite or doing big ultra length competition then you can be competitive on less volume. Dylan Johnson is worth checking out on YouTube as he has done a few videos on training on 6/10/16 hours a week and other training stuff.
Training and Racing with a Power Meter by Allen, Coggan and McGregor is worth a read if you have a power meter. So far as nutrition then take a look at Alan Murchison’s books – they’re primarily recipe books for cyclists but do have some content on how to fuel properly and when. If you can get to eating a variety of fresh un-processed foods, then I’m sure that’s most of the gain right there. The rest is the final few percent. How serious are you looking to be?
Love that colour scheme!
Love that colour scheme! Another vote for getting the CAAD8! My CAAD12 is probably the best bike I have owned, despite owning more expensive bikes with carbon frames, and electronic gears. Even though the 8 is a slightly more basic frame, I bet it rides similarly spritely. You can still get the correct variant of 10speed spares and swapping to 11speed is easily done for the money you’ve saved if you want that. And even new wheels if needed for the 11speed cassette.
