[one_bad_mofo]

I’m going to need a new pair of tyres soon and so it makes sense to make the most of the tubeless compatibility of the Pro-Lite wheels I’m running and upgrade to tubeless tyres.
The only criteria I have are that I want to go to 28c I’m getting old and a carbon race frame equals a punishing ride.
So let me have your real-world opinions, reviews and recommendations so that I can go spend some money.

Topic

[one_bad_mofo]

Thanks for all the replies

Thanks for all the replies people. Some great advice. I guess I’m in a fairly fortunate position of already running Pro-Lite Bortola A21W wheels, which are tubeless-ready and so don’t need to worry about dedicated rim tapes. 

Definiotely going to go fro Milkit valves and tank to seat the tyres. However, still undecided on tyres and sealant. Pro Ones were my initial first choice but it seems their crown has slipped. May go for Conti as I’ve had no problems with them in the past, though to be honest the last time I had them was a pair of slick on an MTB about 20 years ago! 

[Anonymous]

Excellent post by Chris

Excellent post by Chris Harris. Especially point 2. Make sure the rim and hook area are spotless. 
 

Also take a clean damp rag and wipe around the bead of the tyre to be fitted. 

Instead of using soapy water to help the tyre slide on to the lip, I use a bit of sealant as once it’s sealed the sealant helps further secure it. it’s easily cleaned off the tyre/wheel afterwards.  
 

Get some TESA tape. It’s basically the same as Stans tape but you get 66m for £10. 
 

When you fit the tape, after cleaning the rim, use a cloth to press out the bubbles as you go along and then going round the wheel again doing this. Some use a hairdryer at the same time to mould the tape. Once it’s done properly it won’t need doing again. 
 

When fitting the valve use something sharp but round, a hole punch, to create a small hole that fits the valve head and then gently push the valve through it. Do not use a knife. The knife creates a slit that just doesn’t fit tightly round the valve. 
 

As mentioned already, a cheap 20ml syringe fits inside the valve to apply and top up sealant. 
 

I’ve been tubeless since Hunt brought out their first set of wheels. I’ve sworn by Schwalbe tyres until I bought a set of 2020 Pro Ones and they are rubbish. Constantly lose pressure. As in, overnight they go flat. I had an older set of Pro Ones on the same wheels and hardly touched them. I’m waiting for a set of GP5000 to arrive to give them a try. 

[VeloUSA]

Take a look at this VeloNews

1. Take a look at this VeloNews tech article on Hooked vs. hookless rims, tire choice, and pressure recommendations. https://www.velonews.com/gear/tech-faq-hooked-vs-hookless-rims-tire-choice-and-pressure-recommendations/

[Judge dreadful]

I love them on my Hybrid, and

I love them on my Hybrid, and really don’t like them on the road bikes I’ve used them on.

[Rakkor]

I’m running Pro-Ones on my

I’m running Pro-Ones on my Mavic Rims and Huchinson Sector 32s on my commuter’s Hunt wheels – I’ve had no issues with the Mavic RIms, but the commuter is a different story – The front is rock solid and doesn’t lose any pressure at all, last topped up 2 weeks ago – the rear on the other hand was fine until a broken spoke meant the removal of the rim tape to replace it, since then I’ve struggled to get it to maintain pressure – First fix was to check the inflated wheel in a bucket of water and found a steady leak aroind the valve. I reapplied the rim tape which made it better and although there was still a slight leak the sealant sealed it – Then the rear Sector blew out on a fast downhill run, a 3 inch split parallel to the bead which couldn’t be sealed and needed a pickup from the missus as a tube just popped out of the split. New Sector fitted. Then on the next weeks club run it deflated again – I assumed it was a puncture, which had sealed as I could pump it up, but a few hundred meters on it did the same, this time it looked like the valve was the problem, so a tube got me home – luckly I had one

I’m going to redo the rim tape again – I’ve some new 22 mm and 24 mm as I’m not sure what width I should be using on a 22mm internal rim (I’d previously used 19mm

 

[Chris Hayes]

The rim tape deterioration

The rim tape deterioration happened first on the Contis (now fixed by LBS as I lost patience after a morning trying to fix them myself), but the Mavic Open Pro UST came with rim tape which I used and is now leaking through a spoke (so a rim tape issue). 

Incidentally there a great podcast I’m listening to at the moment ‘The Cycling Podcast’ 24.04. discussing exactly this issue…

[Chris Harris]

My experiences are:

My experiences are:

1. Set the tubeless tires up with a tube on an old rim a few days before. That helps shape them, & gives you some chance of seating them tubeless without a burst tank.

2. After removing any old tape, clean inside rims with cotton wool & rubbing alcohol (usually available cheap at supermarket). 

3. Tubeless tape needs careful application to avoid bubbles. (My first try was a failure.) My experience is that the more rigid tapes (such as Effetto) are more difficult to apply correctly. I now use Stans which seems similar to masking tape.

4. Tubeless valves need tapping into place, very gently with a rubber hammer. (Otherwise they leak air around valve & the sealant does not seal that. I learnt this the hard way.)

5. You have some chance of seating the tire without a burst tank. If you don’t have a burst tank, the flat tire setting on a service station air pump will do the job, with a Presta to Schrader adaptor. This is without the valve core. After the tire seats, deflate, inject sealant (as below), install valve core, re-inflate, swish tire around to spread sealant, keep checking pressures until it holds.

6. Topping up sealant is dead easy, there are some common syringes (without needle of course) that engage well after you remove the valve core. (A pharmacist of nurse friend can probably get you one.) Wash the syringe with water & re-use.

7. My rims are not specified as tubeless compatible, but work fine.

Last time I replaced one of my tubeless tires, it took me no longer than a tubed tire, seated first time (with a burst tank), sealed first time.

I find the ride better (mainly due to lower pressures). I am 80 kg, run 25mm front at 60 psi, 28 rear at 70 psi, add 5-10 psi to both for crit racing. Modern tubeless tires are supple, IMHO you don’t lose speed due to lower pressures.

[Secret_squirrel]

Schwalbe Pro Ones but watch

Schwalbe Pro Ones but watch the quality control as one pair I had never sat true on the Stans rims I had.  Much better on the Hunt wheels that replaced them, but one was still lumpy so replaced it.

Dont run near 100psi as pressure forces the sealant out too fast for it to clog.  80 psi should be good enough for most.

Stans sealant and Schwalbe Dot Blue both watery piss – use Orange Endurance.

Watch a video before fitting- Hunts is excellent – had my summer wheels lose virtually no air all winter.  CO2 canisters work fine but you can get a booster tank for £40.

Get a set of Anchovies/Worms with tool – the Lezyne one works.

One thing rarely mentioned as an advantage is that you can ride home on much lower pressures more comfortably than with a tube that just continues to lose air.  Quite a few times if I’ve been feeling lazy I’ve done the few miles home on silly low pressures rather than stop and fix.  Unless you have an anchovie sized tear they nearly always seal eventually.  Sometimes stopping is the worst thing you can do.  Stop after it seals or is totally flat.

 

Have 1 L shaped hole that I’m struggling to fix with anchovies.  Forgot as mentioned below that a standard inner tube patch on the inside can work wonders so will try that.  Will seal enough for a ride but leaks overnight.

[ktache]

Good point.

Good point.

I went and checked some tables because I didn’t think there would be enough gas in a large CO2 thingy, but a 20g and my tank at 200psi both gets my 27.5×3 to 21 and 20 psi, respectively.

My tank is a lot of effort to pump anywhere near 200psi, but is wonderful to use (Topeak Turbibooster X) but it did take me 3 goes to get the last tyre to seat, needed more dilute washing up liquid and a bit of a clogged valve.  I can however attach, flick the lever and run away, the pop terrifies me.

[Russell Orgazoid]

Hutchinson Fusion5 are very

Hutchinson Fusion5 are very good but haven’t exhausted them yet.

Hutchinson Sector 28 are outstanding and last forever.

Schwalbe Pro One 28s. The only tyres i’ve owned that I wold not buy again. Perform great but dont last long. I found they wore very quickly but then they are a race tyre. I’d avoid.

Stans sealant is great. I’m trying CaffeLatex now because it’s cheap and I fancied a change. It’s already sealed some holes well.

[Welsh boy]

On the few occasions that I

On the few occasions that I have not been able to seat my tyres with a track pump I have used a CO2 inflator, never failed and a lot cheaper than buying a proper inflator for the number of times I have needed it. If you believe that CO2 stops the sealant working properly then deflate the tyre once it is seated and pump back up normally. 

[Rich_cb]

I run Schwalbe Pro-Ones
I run Schwalbe Pro-Ones tubeless, I’m on my second set now, reckon the first set lasted about 8000 km.

Only had one puncture that wouldn’t seal in 4 years.

The lower pressure makes the whole ride much more comfortable.

Topping up the sealant is currently a bit of a faff so if you’re starting from scratch I’d definitely get Milkit valves. A mate has them and they make sealant checks and top ups an absolute doddle. I’ll be fitting some next time I change my tyres.

[Dangerous Dan]

I have had a lot of trouble

I have had a lot of trouble making road tubeless work.  I run high pressures because I am a little over 100 kilograms. Lots of tape failure with different tapes and sealant.  All of them had tape driven into the spoke holes. No tire lever damage in sight.

I finally have a setup that works.  On my road bike and on the tandem.  The ride feel on the road bike is much better.  I can only describe the ride with tubes in place as harsh.  A lot of small sharp hits transmitted through the bike.

Siince I have tubeless ready wheels, it was worth it.  Also, if someone tried the tack attack I will guess that tubeless with sealant will have no problems.

[Sriracha]

I’d love to see a proper
I’d love to see a proper double blind trial by the so called experts to see if they can really discern all these differences in ride quality and rolling resistance that they sell us.

[ktache]

My tubeless set up holds air

My tubeless set up holds air better than my latex tubes, I can go at least a week (or more) without needing topping up, the latex tubes needed it 2-3 times a week.  Lower pressure mind.

I have pulled at least 20 thorns from each of my hardpack summer tyres in less than a year, the majority would have been massivly inconvenient or ride enjoyment destroying changes of tube, some requiring multiples and repairing.  Got to use an anchovie on a wet day.  It is incredibly satisfying to pull out a huge thorn and watch the hole seal.  And the smuggness felt continuing the ride.

I find getting the bead away from the rim seal to be an absolute nightmare, and dread having to do it trailside (hopefully never needed, but I do carry a tube, got to be prepared).

I like Orange Endurance Seal gunk, LBS set everything up, I stick in a bit every few months, but after about a year the contents of the rear had snotted up, but I still hadn’t experienced loss of pressure.  The front still had some liquid left in it, hadn’t been as long.

My valves have clogged but I have cleaned them out.  I decided to buy a Topeak TurbiBoster X pressure tank and am glad I did.

I will never stop using tubes/going ghetto tubeless on my old bikes, but I am very pleased that I decided to go tubeless on my new bike.

[Author]

Replies