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Yep, used numerous 10 speed
Yep, used numerous 10 speed chainsets with everything else 11 speed and also vice versa.No problems.
You might want to run a
You might want to run a little lower pressure than normal as the tubeless variant will probably have a thicker and less supple side wall….Yes. Depends on your rims if
Yes. Depends on your rims if they’re a tight fit or not. Getting Conti’s onto some Reynolds rims was the hardest tyre I’ve ever fitted to a wheel. But the same tyre on a different brand of alloy wheel and they went on with just a pair of thumbs. And inflated tubeless straight away.Assuming Shimano 11 speed and
Assuming Shimano 11 speed and an 11speed freehub then no spacer needed.If the cassette is loose or causing a rattle, then you would be able to wobble the cogs side to side slightly when stationary. Also, your gear shifting would likely be inconsistent like others have said, with mis-shifts and skipping between cogs. Is your chain too long causing too much chain slap? Or something else is loose. It’s not a cassette needing a spacer behind it, that’s for sure
I chose the last version of
I chose the last version of Red Etap Hyd over Shimano purely because it is wireless. Faffing around with wires and somewhere to stash the battery just seems like almost as much faff as having mechanical cables.Once I’d routed the hydraulic hoses, I was so glad I didn’t have to route anything else.
Electronic gears are nice, but I wanted to reduce the maintenance/set up side of things too.
I bought the Aeolus in 155
I bought the Aeolus in 155 wide first – to try and get some sit bone comfort. (As I said, I actually had an undiagnosed fracture). It didn’t occur to me when I bought it that the Aeolus was particularly rounded side to side – I do prefer flatter saddles (favourite it Fabric Scoop Flat). I’ve also got a Bontrager Montrose on another bike which is a more usual 143(?) wide and that’s fine but not as comfy. So if the Aeolus is a rounded profile, it probably feels flat enough because i likely don’t need the full width?I bought the fabric line s in 155 for another bike after I’d bought the Aeolus. It was cheaper than the Aeolus and Aeolus’s seemed to be out of stock in 155 at that time.
I use Fabric Scoop Flat, Prime Race Ti (which are around 140(ish) width) and also BBB Phalanx saddle (165 wide) currently on other bikes.
As per SimonAY, I would be
As per SimonAY, I would be more concerned with corrosion from sweat. The bike I have on the turbo has paint flaking off all over, lacquered brake levers are flaking, bare steel parts are rusting…. It’s been on there for 6 years constantly and I didn’t keep on top of wiping it down when I started. The paint flaking started and now…. Well, I can flake paint off with my fingers.Sweat catcher and a towel I reckon for anything you want to keep in a rideable condition.
+1 for Bontrager Aeolus. Was
+1 for Bontrager Aeolus. Was the saddle I’ve been riding with a (unbeknown until recently) broken pelvis, a real game changer comfort wise. I too have have recently bought a Fabric Line S, and it does have a similar profile front to rear, but the nose is a bit pointier.Why would you replace things
Why would you replace things that don’t need replacing?? 2013 isn’t that old especially if the bike hasn’t been used much. I bought a new rim braked bike last year. Rides nicer and lighter than the disc bikes I own. And decent rim brakes do work fine enough.So i’d say ride it, use it, if the odd component goes wrong then either search out a replacement on eBay or buy a new bike with discs etc then. And a new set of wheels with some nice tyres will not be a wasted investment. They’re still selling bikes with rim brakes you know 🙂
I would say carbon rims can get a bit tedious when braking though. Don’t work as well in the wet as alloy, can be a bit grabby in the dry if you don’t choose a reputable set. £300 -£400 on some nice light alloy wheels and some GP5000s and you won’t go wrong.
Oh and i tend to get 12
Oh and i tend to get 12 months out of sealant. But that may be because I store my bikes in a cool and maybe slightly damp cellar.So to answer what you need –
So to answer what you need – possibly tubeless tape (not all tubeless ready rims are taped with tubeless tape), tubeless valves, sealant and specific tubeless (or tubeless ready) tyres for road.I’ve been running road tubeless for probably 5 years now. The only combination I’ve had difficulty mounting are GP5000 on deep section Reynolds carbon rims. Not had a problem mounting GP5000TL to other tubeless rims. Also not had any problem mounting Hutchinson, Schwalbe, Vittoria and Specialized tubeless tyres across Hunt, Cosine (Wiggle own brand), Prime (Wiggle own brand), A-Force, Novatec, Pacenti, Mavic and Stans rims to name but a few. Sometimes it needs decent tyre levers, sometimes just thumbs to roll the tyre on to the rim. Regardless, takes between 5-10 mins per wheel without rushing.
I always use a blob or two of wood glue (Copydex etc) around the valve seat as that seems to be where I lose most air over time if it seeps air too much if I don’t.
A thick water/washing up solution slapped around the rim bed helps the tyre seat when inflated. Plus one of those accumulator style air inflator cannisters such as the Airshot makes it easy to inflate and get the pop on to the rim first time every time.
I’ve had two punctures in those 5 years and the tyres have usually been more or less worn out and worth replacing at that point. The first one the sealant sealed enough to get me home without putting a tube in, the second was a puncture that had previously sealed but started leaking again at home.
On cobbles, I would say it is well worth the confidence it will give knowing you won’t get a pinch flat, even at lower pressures than you possibly would usually. And they do ride nicely and smoothly. You can tell the difference between nice tubeless tyres and no-doubt still decent but normal clinchers that may be more focussed on durability and puncture resistance. And even if you aren’t racing, if the energy savings are to be believed then why wouldn’t you want to expend less energy riding with your mates?
I wouldn’t go back to normal tubed clinchers.
Just checked and there is an
Just checked and there is an option in the app for “Turn by turn directions”Simon, i would say it does
Simon, i would say it does have navigation…. There is a breadcrumb trail that can be followed if you either upload a route or do the “take me to” option and it bleeps/flashes at you to alert you if you go wrong or away from the planned route. I’ve got a vague recollection of it alerting you to turn instructions with a distance to the turn also but I could be wrong.I don’t think it has the
I don’t think it has the functionality to actually show you the quieter roads, or the back routes, but if you find them yourself you’ll be able to see from the map where you are in relation to the main roads etcI have a Bolt and it makes
I have a Bolt and it makes navigation of new areas pretty easy. However, it has however on a few occasions tried to divert me down private driveways/access roads, footpaths across fields and other routes that are either private or unrideable on a road bike. The monochrome map it shows however is generally good enough to find your way round such anomalies. It also has a “take me to” function, so you can put in a destination and it will plot you a route. Much like a car sat nav I suppose. Again, it’s a little bit flakey, doesn’t always have the postcode or destination you’re looking for, but it’s usually good enough.
