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The bike fit should give you
The bike fit should give you dimensions from fixed points on the bike. The one I had, I got a diagram which measured horizontal saddle position in relation to the rear wheel axle. BB/cranks also. Distance from saddle to bars. Saddle height to BB centre. Etc. You should be able to mark these up on the geometry drawing of the bike (and size) of your choice. What are you technical drawing skills like?Do you really mean a proper bike fit or are you just trying to find the right size bike? Any decent bike shop should be able to advise on the correct size and you could compare the geometry tables between different brands. A few millimetres difference here can be compensated by saddle position or a slightly shorter/longer stem etc.
Having bought the bike, you could then have a bike fit to optimise your fit if something doesn’t feel just quite right. But it shouldn’t be so wildly out, because the shop should have helped with the right frame size to begin with.
https://www.parktool.com/blog
https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/standardized-headset-identification-systemZS means the headset would be a cup that presses into the frame headtube, but is internal (so barely an edge of metal headset cup visible from the outside when assembled)
IS means the frame has the bearing seats (cups) machined into the frame so the headset doesn’t have its own cups – it’s basically just a bearing. If you look down the headtube of the frame you will be able to tell whether it is IS or ZS.
For ZS the headtube internal surface will be straight through. For IS you will clearly see some tapered machined surfaces close to the top/bottom edge of the headtube.
The bike shop should be able to confirm whether each cup is IS or ZS just with a visual check if you don’t feel confident visually identifying it yourself. Have the bike shop seen the frame? If they are competent and have physically seem the frame, I would take their word for it rather than Genesis records which may or may not be accurate.
I would think it would be rather bizarre to have one cup ZS and one cup IS. But then bike manufacturers do odd things.
If I remember correctly from
If I remember correctly from when I cabled up a mates brand new Argon Nitrogen frame a couple of years ago, it is one single continuous piece of outer from shifter to rear mech.There are no cable stops near the headtube where it becomes just inner through the frame, and it doesn’t emerge at the bottom bracket either.
My mate had already fitted the BB too, so it obscured the view of the outer coming down the inside of the downtube and going under the BB internal sleeve and into the chainstay up to the rear mech end.
Because of the length of outer needed, that makes it difficult to feed it onto any kind of “guide line” or sleeve. To feed a new outer through easily then somehow you will likely need to attach one end of the new outer to the end of the old outer and then pull them through as one. Securing the two ends of outer butted up to each other is a bit of a challenge to do securely also. You don’t want them coming apart half way through.
It’s with out doubt the hardest frame to cable up that I’ve ever come across. Made worse if you have the matching internally routed handlebars too.
Why wouldn’t you use a -17deg
Why wouldn’t you use a -17deg stem?Sometimes the reach will be right but modern head tubes are sometimes longer than a rider might want. If you size down to lower the stack you’ll lose reach. Of course then you could use a longer stem instead.
It just one way of customising bike fit isn’t it. People think nothing of using a shorter or longer stem. Or the less obvious (to external people) shuffling the saddle back or forward on its rails, or using shorter cranks.
So why not a 17deg stem?
No worries Vic, sounds like a
No worries Vic, sounds like a good way to learn a little about wheel truing etc without the worry of it going wrong whilst out on the next ride 🙂In which case, I would
In which case, I would compare the tension to other wheels you have. Squeeze the parallel(ish) pairs of spokes together (assuming 2 or 3 cross rather than radial) and compare against your other wheels.Most “normal” type rims and spokes (i.e. not something proprietary like Mavic Kysrium) will have similar tensions.
I would perhaps wind on each nipple 1/4 turn if you are concerned. Wheel tension isn’t really that crucial on an indoor trainer clearly. Doesn’t matter if a spoke snaps at home, or equally if they’re a bit loose then there are no bumps or rattle in the road to put them out of true.
I doubt you will find any
I doubt you will find any info re. spoke material and tension on a relatively cheap set of wheels. It would be hard information to find on more expensive sets even.Regardless, I don’t think you really need it with a bit of mechanical sympathy and working methodically…
If you have a slight wobble/out of true section then you can true it just the same as you would any set of wheels, or if one particular spoke is loose then it will be around the correct tension when it makes the same musical note when plucked as the other spokes. If you’re unsure, then quarter turn of a nipple at one time.
There is more to it but i’d really just read up on how to true and/or build wheels.
Also, if you bought yourself
Also, if you bought yourself a cheap bluetooth speed sensor then you might be able to use something like zwift or trainerroad to give you virtual power numbers when on the indoor trainer.If your heart rate isn’t
If your heart rate isn’t controlled and escalates over a time period, then you’re likely not working in the zone you’re meant to be in. If you’re unfit, then your power output will be less for a given heart rate. As you get fitter, you’ll generate more power for that same heart rate. But if you do a 2 hour ride say, and you aim for your aerobic zone heart rate but it escalates over that 2 hour ride time then I would suggest you’ve set your heart rate target perhaps too high (but it could have been affected by other things too such as dehydration, heat etc).Heart rate is affected by all manner of things (sleep, stress, diet, dehydration etc) but it can be used fairly effectively over a period of time as a way of gauging effort.
So really, aside from a period of riding regularly, I’d probably just head straight for your heart rate training plan.
Yeah, sorry about your
Yeah, sorry about your experience – i would normally have hoped to post something a bit more useful. I think my experience is mostly down to Orbea, the manufacturer, accepting the issue as much as the shop.I get the impression Specialized are such a big company and generally their products get good write ups and popularity that they unfortunately don’t care for problems like yours. I’d avoid Specialized more than the shop itself.
Not an especially useful
Not an especially useful comment for the OP, but for balance Tredz were excellent when the paint on my Orbea started to bubble. Again, that will be Orbea accepting it as a warranty issue. Tredz sent me a box to send the whole bike back, arranged the courier, rebuilt the bits on the new frame and then sent it back to me. No fuss.Chainrings and bb’s are unfortunately consumable items so it’s almost just bad luck if they need replacing after such a short time. It’s hard for you to prove the low mileage too. I’ve had bb’s fail/seize in much less than 2000 miles. Most do last longer though. I vaguely remember praxis as having a reputation for soft chainrings.
I agree with this too.
I agree with this too. Consistency of training will give the biggest benefit, not whether your heart rate is a few beats more or less than what a monitor tells you. Have a read up on perception of effort scores, if the plan majors on efforts that are aerobic then that’s an elevated heart rate/effort that you should feel capable of sustaining for a few hours. More formal RPE level descriptions will probably give you a better description. Legs might have a bit of a draggy feeling as you get more tired over the course of a session.I have a Wahoo bike computer paired to a Decathlon HR strap, and also a basic Garmin watch. When I compare the two they’re pretty similar – definitely NOT that far out that one tells me I’m in the zone 2 and the other says zone 5!
I doubt you can go wrong with either Polar or Garmin, choose the one with the features and design you like.
I’ve had no trouble with
I’ve had no trouble with GP5000, Hutchinson, Schwalbe, Specialized 2bliss (Roubaix), Vittoria tubeless across a variety of wheel brands with no problems apart from GP5000 on some Reynolds carbon rims. GP5000 were the easiest I’ve ever fitted however on another set of rims.Decent tyre levers that have a profile that you can locate on the rim edge as well as having a decent tongue make a difference. Something like Decathlon BTwin (yellow ones), Schwalbe…. Possibly Pedro’s??
I wouldn’t worry about the
I wouldn’t worry about the chainring either. The teeth often aren’t regular heights to aid pick up when shifting gears.They start to look more like shark fins when they are properly worn rather than being different heights.
I agree with Cyclefaster, no
I agree with Cyclefaster, no reason why a bike at the cheaper end of the scale can’t give months and years of good service if set up well in the first place and then well maintained.If the wheel wasn’t built very well to begin with, and that is quite possible with factory built wheels, then the spokes might not have been the correct tension to start with or been de-stressed (can’t remember if that’s the exact correct term). If that’s the case then it’s likely they will continually go out of true as spokes loosen. This assumes you mean the wheel rim moves side to side like the first response queries – rather than it being loose bearings.
A shop that can build wheels should be able to tension the wheel properly rather than just tweak some of the nipples around the out of true section to bring it back straight. Or buy yourself a spoke key and read how to true the rim yourself. It’s not difficult if you take it slowly.
If you’re on tarmac and avoiding big potholes, even at 100kg they shouldn’t be going out of true that often but I think it would be hard to argue the wheels are a warranty issue, without the opinion of someone who knows what a well built wheel is.
