[JaredP91]

After a period of riding clinchers, I am looking to go tubeless to reduce my risk of punctures (particularly as I will be riding lots of Yorkshire cobbles in preparation for the Ronde Van Calderdale sportive), as well as save weight and improve my speed and comfort on the bike.

I just wondered what I need to make the conversion? The wheels on my Boardman SLR 8.6 are tubeless ready, so that’s a start, but how straightforward is it to make the change to tubeless?

Topic

[JaredP91]

Thanks all for the great
Thanks all for the great advice and useful links ?

I did have a question around compatibility. I know there is no industry standard for tubeless tyres at this time, making fitting a bit hit and miss. How can I find out which tyres are compatible with my specific rims? For reference, I’m running Boardman Alloy tubeless ready wheels.

[Pilot Pete]

This is worth a read;

This is worth a read;

https://road.cc/content/feature/what-they-dont-tell-you-about-tubeless-257746

As is this;

https://thecycleclinic.co.uk/blogs/news/living-with-tubeless-tyres

You won’t save weight and it’s debatable if you will feel the difference, except in your wallet!

Fitting them may go seamlessly, but be prepared for it not to.

You will need to revamp your ‘on bike repair kit’ to include a tyre patch, tyre worms, an applicator tool, a valve core remover tool, some sealant to top up if it’s all blown out, possibly different/ stronger tyre levers, CO2 inflator and cartridge(s) and possibly a pump (CO2 will re-seat the tyre should it unseat or you need to remove it, but may prevent your sealant from working for a subsequent puncture, so you may need to seat the tyre with CO2 then re-inflate with air from a pump). It all depends on how far you ride – locally you could take a chance on getting home with the CO2, but a long way from home you will probably want the protection in case of another puncture.

You will obviously need the correct tyres, valves (ideally with a removable core), and may need to change or renew your rim tape. You will need sealant, an applicator for the sealant, possibly a shock pump or CO2 to get the tyres to seat, and may need some stronger tyre levers in your workshop as the tyres can be very tight to fit and snap normal tyre levers.

So all in all, quite a change which will cost, at least initially. So it depends on how often you puncture as to whether it works out saving you money or not over the longer term.

PP

[njblackadder]

Reduce the chance of

Reduce the chance of punctures? Probably. Save weight? Unlikely. Improve speed? No chance. Improve comfort? Maybe. That’s my tuppence worth!!!! Good luck with it and happy cycling.

[mike the bike]

I switched to tubeless about

I switched to tubeless about three months ago, mostly because I was building a new bike and it seemed the most convenient, and cheapest, opportunity.

I chose Hunt wheels and Hutchinson tyres and they have been easy and simple to set-up.  I did bung tubes into the tyres first, and pumped them up hard, to let them adopt a better shape overnight.  After that they inflated with a track pump and Stan’s sealant provides the ultimate deterrent.  They need pumping back up to pressure about every two or three weeks, similar to my previous Pirelli tubed rubber.

I have seen no signs of a flat although that would be quite normal in the summer months, with or without tubes.  I can’t detect any change in comfort or grip, at least not at Hutchinson’s recommended pressures.  The tyres are wearing exceptionally well, they still look new after about 1500 miles.

Hope that helps.

[Hirsute]

Start here

Start here

https://road.cc/content/buyers-guide/buyers-guide-tubeless-tyres-214416

and come back with any questions.

There are new tyres all the time now, so once you have so idea, you can look at recent tyre reviews.

[Author]

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