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Nice.
I think you should give tensioning and trueing a go. Just take it relatively slow and try to tension each spoke roughly the same. It’s quite possible to true up a wheel by putting it onto the bike and eyeballing it so that the rim is halfway between the forks. It’ll be a learning exercise, prepare you for if you ever need to replace a spoke and then you can take it to the bike co-op to check how well you’ve done. As long as you don’t go too tight, it should save them some time.
Oh, doing it myself is the plan. I’ve replaced spokes and trued wheels before. The co-op is a volunteer workspace (that I sometimes volunteer at) where you’re supposed to do your own wrenching, with the volunteers just being advisors.
They/we have a couple of good quality truing stands, as well as some other tools I’ll need like a headset bearing press, and bottom bracket facing tool.
I laced up my first wheel
I laced up my first wheel ever, new rim, spokes, and nipples onto my old SON dynamo hub. I still need to take it to the bike co-op to tension and true it. The rim matches the new hand built rear wheel, which is ready to go. The frame I used for LEJoG is out getting stripped and powder coated.
Hopefully posting the results in the next couple of weeks on Pictures of your Bike.
Here’s my own “trapped in my
Here’s my own “trapped in my house” story. Saturday morning while I was out for a coffee ride, our garage door torsion spring broke. It was apparently very loud and scary. There is really no opening the garage door until I install a new spring, which should arrive by Tuesday. The door weighs at least 300 lb.Both of our cars are trapped in the garage, because we’re weirdos who keep them in there instead of in the driveway.
So far my wife has cycled with me on her class 1 ebike to two places she hasn’t cycled to before, both within five miles of our house. It’s actually been a pretty nice weekend.
Wow! This is a place I go to
Wow! This is a place I go to a few times a year, but it’s right across the parking lot from the pub I go to weekly.
Except of course that disced and disked are in fact in the dictionary.Not in the sense used here they are not*, or at least not in either edition I own of the Oxford English Dictionary. Be interested to hear which dictionaries they are in.
*There is a sense “like a disc” as in “the tree’s disced canopy”
Around here farmers disk their fields. They can then say that they disked their field yesterday. But yes, completely different sense of the word, and a verb, not an adjective.
We need to stop listening to whingeing drivers.Anger as four Dover town centre streets to shut for Fastrack bus contraflow works
Doesn’t that red circle sign mean no buses and bicycles in both directions?
However, some pointed out that disposing of large waste legally and responsibly was “not always possible”.I’m assuming they meant “not always free.”
According to federal data, the average American now weighs around 30 percent more than they did 40 years ago.I know that I’m not American but I think that I’m a lot more than 30% heavier than I was 40 years ago, probably more than 300% heavier
My weight is up at least 400% since I moved from the UK to the US at age 8. Must be from eating. Well, and breathing and drinking.
mark1a wrote:
As a MINI enthusiast, thanks, I hate it.If you are a proper Mini enthusiast, you’d hate it even if it had normal wheels.
To be fair, he did say “MINI” and not “Mini”…
I like both, but the very new ones have got big and ugly.Here’s mine with my brother’s.
Please tell me this is digitally alteredAs a MINI enthusiast, thanks, I hate it.
David9694 wrote:
If you pluck an uncracked DS spoke, what’s it feel like?
Looking carefully now, there is maybe one uncracked drive side one. It sounds and feels about the same as the others. I just measured them all with my Unior tensiometer. The spokes are 2.0-1.6-2.0. Using the closest values on the table (1.65), the drive side all measure 80-120 kgf. The non drive side measure 55-75 kgf.Checking a few random ones on the front, they’re pretty close to the rear drive side tensions.
I see no non drive side cracks on the rear. What I do see now is seven cracks on the front, all but one on left side nipples. So I guess I’m rebuilding that front for sure.
I’ve placed an order with
I’ve placed an order with Wheelbuilder. I took their recommendation, and also splurged a little but no big deal. The total was about $625 (£465) including shipping for a handbuilt in California rear wheel.
Wheel Size: 27.5″ / 650B
Rear Rim Model: DT GR 531 Disc
Rear Spoke Count: 32H
Rear Axle Type: 142 x 12mm TA
Rear Disc Type: Centerlock Disc
Rear Hub: DT Swiss 350 Classic Center Lock Disc Brake Rear Hub
Rear Hub Color: Black
Drivetrain Type: Shimano/SRAM 11 Road
Points of Engagement: 36T Ratchet
Rear Hub Bearings: Steel
Spoke Type: Double Butted
Spoke Color: Black
Nipple Type: Black Brass
I can buy the same rim in 28 hole for under $100 (£75) if I decide I want to lace one to my front SON hub and have the wheels match.
3 year guarantee offered – let us know what Hunt come back with.Every other spoke hole cracking you say – NDS or DS? The other thing I’m thinking, not that I’m any sort of expert, is too much spoke tension on the one side.
It’s all (or the vast majority of) the drive side ones.
My two cents:Definitely worth reaching out to Hunt and seeing what they say – they might offer you a discount on a new wheel, but no harm done if not.
I don’t think it’s likely to be worth rebuilding the wheel – the hubs aren’t anything special, and by the time you’ve costed for labour and new spokes (likely necessary if the ERD isn’t the same) unlikely to be financial viable compared to just buying something new.
My suggestion would be to find a reputable wheel builder and have a chat. Unfortunately whilst I could name several in the UK, I don’t know any in the USA but I’m sure if you search more US-oriented forums you’ll be able to find some recommendations. Whilst it might be possible to ship from the UK, I agree it’s unlikely to be sensible for you. If long term reliability is key, I think handbuilt makes more sense than anything off-the-shelf. And handbuilt wheels tend to use generic, widely stocked components, so when something does eventually break, normally much easier to get fixed.
Thanks. I’ve contacted wheelbuilder.com . Their website has an overwhelming number of choices, but looks to be good value. They’re in California, which is as far as you can get from me in the 48 states, but shipping is less than $20 for an example wheel I put in my cart. I’ll see what they suggest. Fortunately I’m not in a hurry. I’m considering having the frame re-repainted as I picked up a massive chip shipping my bike over (and it’s not a great paint job anyhow.)
Youll probably want some robust spokes and a 32/32h set-up. Cycle Clinic uses Sapim. I’m guessing you overloaded your Hunts. (I’d be 32/36h in 700c.)I’d definitely prefer at least 32, which is what my Jamis touring bike had. I bought it used, and then put over 18000 miles on it before selling it, and the wheels were still fine. I don’t see how I could have overloaded the Hunt rear when my touring load is fairly light and mostly on the front, and I weigh a massive 160 lb / 11 st. 6 lb / 72 kg. Although I’m currently down seven pounds since the tour!
Hunt states they test their wheelsets for over 135 kg / 297 lb per pair on cobbles, “equivalent to riding Paris Roubaix over 5 times with no tarmac sections, only cobbles.”
https://us.huntbikewheels.com/blogs/news/89909574-product-lab-testing-the-rolling-road
