[andystow]

Jogle wrote:

David9694 wrote:

According to federal data, the average American now weighs around 30 percent more than they did 40 years ago.

I know that I’m not American but I think that I’m a lot more than 30% heavier than I was 40 years ago, probably more than 300% heavier

My weight is up at least 400% since I moved from the UK to the US at age 8. Must be from eating. Well, and breathing and drinking.

[andystow]

mark1a wrote:

mark1a wrote:

Steve K wrote:

andystow wrote:

As a MINI enthusiast, thanks, I hate it.

If you are a proper Mini enthusiast, you’d hate it even if it had normal wheels. 

To be fair, he did say “MINI” and not “Mini”…

I like both, but the very new ones have got big and ugly.

Here’s mine with my brother’s.

[andystow]

Hirsute wrote:

Please tell me this is digitally altered

As a MINI enthusiast, thanks, I hate it.

[andystow]

David9694 wrote:

David9694 wrote:

If you pluck an uncracked DS spoke, what’s it feel like? 

Looking carefully now, there is maybe one uncracked drive side one. It sounds and feels about the same as the others. I just measured them all with my Unior tensiometer. The spokes are 2.0-1.6-2.0. Using the closest values on the table (1.65), the drive side all measure 80-120 kgf. The non drive side measure 55-75 kgf.

Checking a few random ones on the front, they’re pretty close to the rear drive side tensions.

I see no non drive side cracks on the rear. What I do see now is seven cracks on the front, all but one on left side nipples. So I guess I’m rebuilding that front for sure.

[andystow]

I’ve placed an order with

I’ve placed an order with Wheelbuilder. I took their recommendation, and also splurged a little but no big deal. The total was about $625 (£465) including shipping for a handbuilt in California rear wheel.

Wheel Size: 27.5″ / 650B
Rear Rim Model: DT GR 531 Disc
Rear Spoke Count: 32H
Rear Axle Type: 142 x 12mm TA
Rear Disc Type: Centerlock Disc
Rear Hub: DT Swiss 350 Classic Center Lock Disc Brake Rear Hub
Rear Hub Color: Black
Drivetrain Type: Shimano/SRAM 11 Road
Points of Engagement: 36T Ratchet
Rear Hub Bearings: Steel
Spoke Type: Double Butted
Spoke Color: Black
Nipple Type: Black Brass
 

I can buy the same rim in 28 hole for under $100 (£75) if I decide I want to lace one to my front SON hub and have the wheels match.

[andystow]

David9694 wrote:

3 year guarantee offered – let us know what Hunt come back with. 

Every other spoke hole cracking you say – NDS or DS? The other thing I’m thinking, not that I’m any sort of expert, is too much spoke tension on the one side. 

It’s all (or the vast majority of) the drive side ones.

[andystow]

OnYerBike wrote:

My two cents:

Definitely worth reaching out to Hunt and seeing what they say – they might offer you a discount on a new wheel, but no harm done if not.

I don’t think it’s likely to be worth rebuilding the wheel – the hubs aren’t anything special, and by the time you’ve costed for labour and new spokes (likely necessary if the ERD isn’t the same) unlikely to be financial viable compared to just buying something new. 

My suggestion would be to find a reputable wheel builder and have a chat. Unfortunately whilst I could name several in the UK, I don’t know any in the USA but I’m sure if you search more US-oriented forums you’ll be able to find some recommendations. Whilst it might be possible to ship from the UK, I agree it’s unlikely to be sensible for you. If long term reliability is key, I think handbuilt makes more sense than anything off-the-shelf. And handbuilt wheels tend to use generic, widely stocked components, so when something does eventually break, normally much easier to get fixed. 

Thanks. I’ve contacted wheelbuilder.com . Their website has an overwhelming number of choices, but looks to be good value. They’re in California, which is as far as you can get from me in the 48 states, but shipping is less than $20 for an example wheel I put in my cart. I’ll see what they suggest. Fortunately I’m not in a hurry. I’m considering having the frame re-repainted as I picked up a massive chip shipping my bike over (and it’s not a great paint job anyhow.)

[andystow]

David9694 wrote:

Youll probably want some robust spokes and a 32/32h set-up. Cycle Clinic uses Sapim. I’m guessing you overloaded your Hunts. (I’d be 32/36h in 700c.)

I’d definitely prefer at least 32, which is what my Jamis touring bike had. I bought it used, and then put over 18000 miles on it before selling it, and the wheels were still fine. I don’t see how I could have overloaded the Hunt rear when my touring load is fairly light and mostly on the front, and I weigh a massive 160 lb / 11 st. 6 lb / 72 kg. Although I’m currently down seven pounds since the tour!

Hunt states they test their wheelsets for over 135 kg / 297 lb per pair on cobbles, “equivalent to riding Paris Roubaix over 5 times with no tarmac sections, only cobbles.”

https://us.huntbikewheels.com/blogs/news/89909574-product-lab-testing-the-rolling-road

[andystow]

David9694 wrote:

Ryde (the old Rigida) rims might be another one to consider. You might benefit from a SON dynohub wheel?

The front is already a SON hub, hence why I’m looking for either a rear wheel, or buy rims and rebuild. The dyno hub is what made me buy the Hunt wheelset in the first place, as it seemed like a bargain.

[andystow]

Here’s something off the

Here’s something off the shelf at a very reasonable cost from a company I’ve heard of. Anything wrong with Mavic? It’s fewer spokes than the failed Hunt wheel, though.

https://www.mavic.com/en-us/p/allroad-650b-disc-rr1325?variant=1918

I don’t mind paying for handbuilt, but probably won’t go with a UK supplier as I’m in the middle of the US. I’ve just never bought wheels before (other than the Hunts) and don’t know which “brand I’ve heard of” is actually quality.

• DT Swiss
• Mavic
• Velocity
• HED
• Crank Brothers
• Shimano
• Ritchey
• Zipp
• ENVE
• Fulcrum

[andystow]

chrisonabike wrote:

For utility use I definitely see why some more upright bikes have the load at front which stays fixed to the head tube / down tube and doesn’t turn with the fork.

Yes, a Brompton with the load on the carrier block handles just as twitchily no matter how heavy the load is!

[andystow]

I’ve tried both ways, and

I’ve tried both ways, and prefer a front load to rear if I can do just one. I do have a rear rack for the bike, but I don’t think I’ve toured with it. I had a rear-biased load on my previous touring bike, and didn’t like how it handled. The only time it feels awkward is if you’re trying to lift the fully loaded bike. Also, you just can’t hop up a kerb.

Here’s a pic from the only tour I could find where I had something on the rear of this bike. It’s the same bike, before I had it welded and poorly repainted. This was about 165 miles over two days with one night camping, from Normal, Illinois to downtown Chicago. I also had cooking gear, which I didn’t have on my LEJoG. Not sure how I secured the tent, as I don’t see the Tubus front rack on there.

[andystow]

Here’s a photo of one of the
Here’s a photo of one of the cracks, which I’ve sent to Hunt. Still awaiting a response.

[andystow]

quiff wrote:

Just thinking – Wick and Penzance must have a potentially problematic number of one way hires… 

Possibly. The one-way charge was only about £80 on top of the normal charges, which is a lot less than I’ve come across in the US for an equivalent distance. Maybe the LEJoG and JoGLE one-ways somewhat cancel out at each end.

[andystow]

Grahamd wrote:

A friend of mine binned his Hunts in similar circumstances, then found out that Hunt would have offered a discount on buying a replacement. Not sure if such offers are a regular service, but he regretted his hasty decision.

Yeah, I might do it, but best case I have another wheel that will crack in under 20k miles, right? I suppose there’s some value in knowing they’ll last at least 1000 miles after noticing a bunch of cracks.

[Author]

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