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What about using one of those
What about using one of those Thompson seatposts with the bend in it, the other way around?
+1 for DCR wheels. Top bloke
+1 for DCR wheels. Top bloke and builds lovely wheels.
The forum classified pages
The forum classified pages can be very good for a quick sale. Of course Road.cc has one, Bike Radar has one (good for medium/high end stuff), and LFGSS is great for bits and pieces you want to shift, particularly vintage and retro.
You might not reach ebay prices, but you’ll save on Ebay and PayPal fees, which can take a disappointing cut off the top.
Yes, you need a huge allen
Yes, you need a huge allen key which goes in from the non drive side and the freehub comes out pretty easily (as it appears you’ve found out). There’s a special Vision tool which is a split collared tube that you put in from the NDS and tap the bearing out, but I got mine out some other way that I can’t quite remember. I think once you’ve removed the NDS bearing, you can get a bit of rod or a drift through onto the DS bearing and tap it out from the far side?
Your best bet is to replace the standard axial bearings with angular contact bearings since they last much longer and as far as I can remember there’s no preload adjustment on these hubs, which means the standard axial bearings wear quickly.
The technical drawing maybe of some help:
Why not buy the Potenza group
Why not buy the Potenza group with Chorus shifters then? That will get you Ultrashift for only a bit more than the Potenza group.
I’ve got an Athena group with Chorus shifters on my commute bike, and it’s been brilliant, still crisp and precise now about 4000km on it.
Commuting gets me out at this
Commuting gets me out at this time of year. I actually like the feeling of rain on my face. I like the way the fairweather commuters melt away and there’s just a handful of regulars out on the roads on the dark and rainy days. The only downside is having to wear more stuff, which takes longer to put on.
As for clothing, windtex clothing is absolutely brilliant. I hardly ever wear a waterproof jacket any more, with jackets from Sportful and Lusso and Parentini in regular use – bought near new off the forums – and absolutely brilliant worn as a single layer or over a sleeveless base layer. No more ‘boil in the bag’ and plenty warm enough even when getting wet. It’s by far the easiest and quickest way to work, anything else takes forever because I’m not near the Tube or a railway or even a single direct bus route to work.
I still ride this Raleigh
I still ride this Raleigh Record I bought in 1973, when I visit my brother’s place (where it’s stored now). Gave it a bit of TLC a few years ago. It’s very heavy but very smooth.
Measure, check the charts, measure again. Review. Make decision. Ride and (tweak) enjoy…This.
Have only ridden 1 of last 9 bikes before purchase.
I still have 8 of them, and even though I’ve subsequently tweaked the fit on most, it worked out quite well I’d say.
This, again.
Make up a table showing the geometry for your bike, and compare it with the bike you want. Can you get the same position by fiddling around with stem length and spacers under the stem? If yes, you can be reasonably certain the bike will fit. I’ve bought my last 5 bikes online, often just as framesets, and haven’t had a problem yet.
In my experience of commuting
In my experience of commuting, Chorus cassettes and chains do last a bit longer than Ultegra, about 50 – 100% longer, on the same bike commuting the same route, summer and winter, rain or shine. But then they’re about 50-100% more expensive, so you get what you pay for.
Nevertheless I have an SR cassette on the ‘best’ bike – a 2009 Colnago Extreme Power Super with 2009 SR – and the titanium cogs do wear faster. But why spoil the ship for a hap’orth of tar, as they say. If you can afford a C64 with EPS, why cut corners?
If you are going to do it budget for dyno lights or an extra set of battery lights (or even two sets). One at home, one at work, one on the bike – by the time you’ve done that you’ll probably find that dyno lighting is cheaper. Keeping lights charged for 3+ hours riding per day is a right chore.Exactly this. Dynamo lights are a must, invest in a decent front light with a properly shaped beam like a B&M Luxos/Cyo/Eyc or a Son Edelux. You’ll need the extra light and never run out of batteries.
Where I cycle to work there
Where I cycle to work there are so many bikes it’s one continuous stream most days.
In winter the riders without mudguards are a complete pain. Their rear wheel basically puts a fountain up behind them several bike lengths long. Far from drafting, they’re just antisocial. Fit a rear guard, if only for the riders behind you. You’re not the only cyclist on the road these days!
Had some basic black Endura
Had some basic black Endura neoprene ones that lasted about 7 years but I only used them if it was really raining, not in drizzle.
Now I have some lightweight Craft overshoes that are absolutely brilliant, these:
They’re a looser fit, and a lighter material, and I’ve found them much better, easier to get on and off, if not quite as totally watertight as the neoprene ones.
Yes still having this problem
Yes still having this problem, in Apple Mail 11.5 on a Macbook Pro running OSX 10.13.6.
Also when logging into Outlook.com on Firefox 69.0.3 (64-bit), and on Safari 13.0.2.
I use Adblock but have whitelisted road.cc and turned off Firefox’s inbuilt blocking.
Yeah, I can’t see images
Yeah, I can’t see images either, not in apple’s Mail client nor when I log in directly to Outlook. I thought it was just me.
There’s a Surly cross bike, a
There’s a Surly cross bike, a mate has one, decent bike with plenty of mounts:
https://surlybikes.com/bikes/cross_check
https://richmondcyclecentre.co.uk/shop/surly-cross-check/
Proper steel fork too. She’s a strong cyclist and absolutely loves it.