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CX bikes, hydro biking and single ring

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  • February 24, 2020 at 8:29 am #30509
    keepdrilling

    Hi all I’m new to the forum and ironically the questions I came seeking answers on some have been answered in today’s article but some remain open.
    I’m
    In the market for an entry level CX bike so
    1-I can race Cx late in the season and
    2-commute to work here and there

    I was looking at 2 bikes
    Cannondale Caadx105 v cube crossrace (entry level)

    The premise for these were they had a dual ring and I could use the bike for commuting without spinning out and the odd road spin.is trip his an assumption I have mad over would the single ring cx bikes likely not spinout on road?

    Also would anyone have any opinions on the bikes I am considering? (The single ring question may point me elsewhere)

    Lastly how important are hydro brakes in CX?

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  • March 30, 2020 at 1:45 pm #956169
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    Canyon48

    Hydraulic disc brakes are

    Hydraulic disc brakes are essential for off-road riding in my opinion. To be honest, I consider them essential for year-round road riding, they are much better in the wet.

    Mechanical disc brakes are a pain to setup, a pain to keep adjusted correctly and don’t offer the amazing braking performance of hydro. I’ve had; Shimano M416, Avid BB5, Avid BB7 and the top of the mechanical disc brake range Avid TRP’s – all of them have been difficult. Since switching to hydro, no issues at all – my daily rider has been set up with hydro brakes for over a year and a half now and it’s been totally maintenance-free (I’ll bleed it again before summer).

    As for 1x, there are lots of opinions – many not helpful. I had a Trek Crockett, I used it for cyclocross, commuting and the occasional road ride. It had a 40 ring upfront and 11-46 out the back. I had no issues averaging 18mph on it over my 15-mile commute each way to work.

    I had no issues averaging just over 19mph on a 30-mile ride, including going up Cheddar Gorge and over the Mendips (I usually average about 20mph on my road bike on this route – but my road bike has 2x, deep-section carbon wheels, is 1kg lighter and is overall more aero and lighter). 1x spins out at about 35 mph, my road bike spins out at about 45mph – (both at 120rpm).

    I did have my cx bike setup 2x for CX, I found it annoying, preferring the simpler, sequential shifting of 1x (though using 2x 46/36 was better than 50/34). 1x will not prevent you from using a bike for commuting, or for longer rides – it is, however, harder to get the perfect cadence. Equally, 2x is not going to stop you riding CX.

     

    Out of those two bikes, the CAADX is slightly lighter (by a couple hundred grams), and has the hydro brakes, but the overall build is very similar. The CAADX is also £400 more expensive.

    You could, if you want, buy the Cube, and if you want to upgrade, buy the hydro levers AND brakes for £320. Add £20 for the bleed kit, £20 for new bar tape, then sell the mechanical levers and brakes for £80-100. It’ll cost you no more than £300 to do it yourself.

    A single ring conversion is also very easy (though slightly costly). Wolftooth single ring chain is £80 and the Shimano RX8000 (or GRX) clutch rear mech is about £60. This gives you the choice and parts to convert to 1x or 2x. To be honest, if you want 1x, it is easier just to buy a bike already installed with the new Shimano GRX.

     

    I’ve probably given you way too much info – some of it might be useful! Let us know how you get on 🙂

    March 21, 2020 at 8:28 am #956167
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    matthewn5

    Fair enough, but if the front

    Fair enough, but if the front mech is adjusted properly it works perfectly every time. Yes, you don’t want to shift on full power but that applies to rear shifts too.

    March 7, 2020 at 3:13 pm #956165
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    Simon E

    If you shift chainrings at a

    If you shift chainrings at a stop then shift back immediately afterwards there’s a higher chance of the chain coming off. And I find shifting to the big ring isn’t always instant, it can require a slackening off of pressure on the pedals so that the chain rides up smoothly. IME it’s easier to shift 2 or 3 ratios on the rear.

    I recently fitted a 38t single ring to my winter bike to replace a compact and find it ideal with an 11-28 9spd cassette. No big gaps and more cross-chaining. I wouldn’t choose it for a big ride in hilly terrain but it’s ideal for my lumpy commute and most training rides.

    March 7, 2020 at 12:21 pm #956163
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    matthewn5

    If you’re commuting you’ll

    If you’re commuting you’ll need a double crankset, because there’s so much stop/start at lights and crossings. You want to be able to dump the chain out of the big ring when you stop and then flip back into the big ring a few seconds later when you start again. Very handy, assuming you’re using fairly close ratio cassette.

    I guess if you have a single up front you probably use a wider ratio cassette so maybe not so much of a problem. Anyway, my 2d worth.

    February 26, 2020 at 12:40 pm #956161
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    Capt Caveman

    My year-round commuter is a

    My year-round commuter is a Trek Crockett which I also use for weekend warrioring at the local MTB XC races, there being no CX racing locally (or at least it was until it got totalled in a hit & run the other week ).

    1x & hydro are definitly the way to go – as Joe Totale says, I find it so much more reliable when everything is caked in mud. I’ve got/had two wheelsets though – one for commuting with super-wide road tyres and a smaller cassette to minimise the big jumps between gears when on the road, and then my race wheels with knobbly tyres and a larger cassette to get my old legs round the hilly XC courses. 

    Was running a 40t chainring and had be going more than 30mph before I started spinning out which, as I wasn’t doing any group riding on my way to work, only really occurred when doubling up a commute with an interval session and a strong tailwind.

    February 24, 2020 at 12:32 pm #956159
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    Joe Totale

    I couldn’t imagine racing CX

    I couldn’t imagine racing CX without either hydro brakes or single ring transmission.

    Some of the races I’ve done have been so muddy that there’s huge clumps of mud where a front derailleur would have been, shifting would not have happened. Likewise I’d advise a rear derailleur with a clutch to avoid dropping your chain due to mud induced chain suck. 

    I would say though that single ring isn’t much fun on the road, you do notice those big gaps between gears that aren’t so obvious off road. I’ve got a top gear of 42/11 and you spin out on the road but it happens less often then you think and it is usable on the road, especially with commuting.  

    Hydro brakes are great for those technical, twisty sections which always seem to involve steep downhill ramps. I really like their reliability, they just work no matter how grotty the conditions. 

    I think this bike is a good deal:

    https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/vitus-energie-cyclocross-bike-apex-2020/rp-prod182826

    It also has mudguard mounts to help with commuting. 

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