[matthewn5]

This looks like an actual

This looks like an crack, heading down to the left from 8 o’clock on the large chip, caused by the chain crushing the frame member:

Might be worth having the frame looked at by someone who can test the integrity of the carbon.

If it’s ok I’d be tempted just to cover it with helicopter tape and cycle on.

[matthewn5]

That’s a Rivnut, it works

That’s a Rivnut, it works like a pop rivet but has an internal thread. It’s just there to hold the cable guides under the bottom bracket.

You could presumable drill it out as you can with a pop rivet, but you will then have violated the warranty on your new frame… which probably isn’t a great idea.

My advice would be to avoid press fit bottom brackets like the plague, but I know that’s become harder to do these days.

Hambini has a good video on how badly made some pressfit BBs are:

[matthewn5]

+1 for stack and reach. The

+1 for stack and reach. The only measurements that you really need to look at in terms of fit.

You can work out (by extrapolating from the stack and reach of a bike you know) how many spacers you’ll need under the stem, and how long a stem you’ll need. Works like a charm, so when you get on your new bike, the position is just the same as the position you’re already happy with.

[matthewn5]

The older Rapha caps came in

The older Rapha caps came in three sizes… as a large header, I found the Large size perfect. You can find NOS or used ones on ebay. The current version is ‘one size (doesn’t) fit all’.

Otherwise, some of the ‘replica’ caps on ebay are cut fairly generously, I’ve found, I got nice Colnago Del Tongo and St Raphäel caps that fit well.

[matthewn5]

ktache wrote:

This is a particularly timely thread for me, as I intend to wrap the loop on my Jones H bar.

I don’t think that I have wrapped any bars since the early 90s.

I’m thinking a middleish price, not too cheap and not very expensive.  The Cinelli Tennis tape sounds about right.

Is it necessary to use finishing tape, or will electrical tape sufice?

It comes with finishing tape, but I always use electrical tape first then the finishing tape for ‘finishing’. That way you can get a perfect finish and don’t need to stretch the finishing tape, which hides the electrical tape.

The other thing I do sometimes is to start the tape at the middle – near the stem – and wrap outwards to the ends. You finish by overlapping the ends, turning them in, and fitting the end caps in the normal way. It’s extremely neat and you need no electrical or finishing tape. That’s the way we used to wrap in the 1970s with thin tape, and it still works with thinner tapes today.

I also do a double X behind the shifters so you get the tape going the ‘right’ way on the tops and drops (so it tightens in use when you’re pulling back on the tops, and rolling outwards on the drops).

[matthewn5]

Athena 11 speed Powertorque

Athena 11 speed Powertorque cranks are pretty cheap now, and would be a straight swap. You shouldn’t have a problem running 10 speed chain on an 11-speed crankset.

[matthewn5]

Kieran0885 wrote:

So the short answer is no. It’s all style over substance. Ok I’ll stick with the Deda I was looking at originally at 7.99

thanks

That £7.99 Deda tape feels lovely. Really nice under the hands. I’ve got it on my long distance bike.|
The only problem I’ve found with it, once it’s on, it’s on for good. There’s no readjustment possible, the glue is so strong, it tears if you try to unwrap it.

The other one I’ve been using for the last few years is Cinelli Tennis tape. That feels really luxurious.

[matthewn5]

+1 for “don’t tension”… I

+1 for “don’t tension”… I had a lovely 40 year old Wrights saddle (made by Brooks), beautifully worn in, that I took a spanner to… needless to say, it broke the next time it was ridden (by my nephew’s friend, not me).

[matthewn5]

I’ve commuted for 10 years in

I’ve commuted for 10 years in all weathers. On dry forecast days I always carry a light breathable waterproof jacket from Giordana and a pair of very light Craft overshoes, as I wear ‘normal’ shoes and dont want to wreck them. If its forecast to rain, or raining before I set off, I’ll wear a waterproof hardshell Craft jacket (10 years old, going strong, had a tailor put in a new zip 3 years ago), waterproof hiking overtrousers (bought in Yorkshire years ago for a tenner), and Endura neoprene overshoes. I wear a cotton cap under the helmet in summer (unless its baking) and a Dexshell wool beanie in winter. Mostly it doesnt rain, and if it’s light rain, it doesnt matter if work trousers cop a bit on the way, they dry off fairly quickly. I’ve a range of gloves from thin to thick depending on the temperature as I get cold hands. Its mainly a matter of having lightweight kit to carry in case, and heavier kit you wear when you have to.

[matthewn5]

Carbon can usually be

Carbon can usually be repaired. It’s one of its advantages as a material over alloy or welded (not brazed) metal frames.

Please let us know what the carbon repair companies say.

[matthewn5]

+1 for charity raffle. Choose

+1 for charity raffle. Choose the charity of your choice, tihey’ll be thrilled to have the money. Times are tough.

[matthewn5]

I rode the Dunwich Dynamo

I rode the Dunwich Dynamo with a group including a chap riding one of thiese Ribbles:

https://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/ribble-cgr-sl/

 

It was really impressive, takes 650b or 700c wheels for gravel/road, and was a very smart looking bike to boot. The chap who owned it said he was selling his other bikes, as it he’d finally found the elusive ‘one bike suits all’ machine.

[matthewn5]

I went with BC because at the

I went with BC because at the time they were unequivocably supporting segregated infrastructure, whereas CTC (as was) had muddled messages and seemed to be supporting ‘vehicular cycling’.

Since the change to CUK, theyre both supporting segregated infra, but I stuck with BC as it supports British cycle racing. Horses for courses!

[matthewn5]

AfterPeak wrote:

AfterPeak wrote:

Dart22 wrote:

What is the best company/place to buy all of the required parts from? Does building your own bike work out cheaper than buying one? Thanks

Building your own bike is way way more expensive but so much more satisfying. Its mainly all the tools required that I found to be the expensive bit but now I could swap components or change a frame in half a day so you can keep your bike up to date and do all the maintenance (Bar a couple of jobs I would leave for the experts). Park tools are the best but as you expect they are the most expensive (I would get their cable cutters). I basically brought a tool here and there and any brand as long as the reviews are good.

Building your own bike is miles cheaper. You don’t need ‘all the tools’ on the first day. If you shop around for parts you can save literally thousands of pounds, as I have done with all my bikes. And you end up with something unique, not just built to a profit margin.

[matthewn5]

They’re mountain bike shorts.

They’re mountain bike shorts… How can us roadies offer advice?

[Author]

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