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Orbit America c1990
Orbit bikes seem to be quite under-rated. A couple of years ago I got a very nice light Orbit bike with perfect Shimano 2×7 speed for £70, that served as commuter for a student friend.
Get David at DCR to build you
Get David at DCR to build you some lovely performance wheels. And he can re-rim them once they need it, unlike any throwaway mass-produced wheels, for which you can rarely find (or afford) replacements.
And another recommendation
And another recommendation for DCR – or indeed, for a Danish wheelbuilder. You’ll get something that’s probably cheaper and lighter than any commercial product and it will be rebuildable in future if you damage or wear out a component. You can pick exactly the rims and hubs you want and know that there’s a person to turn to in the event of problems.
LFGSS is good. But don’t
LFGSS is good. But don’t expect Evilbay prices, because you’re not paying Evilbay costs either.
And there was me hoping it
And there was me hoping it was going to be about a different Royal on a bike:
https://www.hellomagazine.com/royalty/20210610115044/prince-charles-giggles-rides-bicycle-highgrove/
But a carbon frame wouldn’t have broken in the first place, and is repairable if you do break it….It might have broken, but it would be repairable.
I’ve seen a number of reports
I’ve seen a number of reports of cracked titanium, particularly around welds, but not bent.
Any metal bike will bend in an impact, and the top tube/down tube bends are very characteristic of a frontal impact. In the old days of lugged or brazed steel frames, a frame-builder could melt out the brazing and insert new tubes, making the bike good as new, but with electric welding, no chance. At least metal frames are recyclable, unlike carbon…
Wheels with cup-and-cone
Wheels with cup-and-cone bearings: Regular check of bearing play and adjustment if there’s something less than perfect (i.e. can feel more or less than a tiny amount of lateral movement at the rim, or gritty feel or tightness of the axle when the wheel is out of the bike). Occasional clean and re-grease, when the bearings don’t feel quite right. I grew up with cup-and-cone bearings, there’s an art to getting them just right.
Wheels with cartridge bearings: Replace bearings when they feel rough.
See Hambini, the dimples are
See Hambini, the dimples are a gimmick, in the wrong place for any actual aero gains.
Di2 doesn’t like non-Shimano cassettes very much,Mmmmm… I’ve only ever used my 11 speed DA Di2 with Campag 11 speed cassettes (as I only had a Campag wheelset) and it’s been flawless shifting from day 1.
Look up the stack height of a
Look up the stack height of a Chris King semi-integrated headset I suppose, and add that on?
Or just use spacers.
Thanks, I’ve turned that off
Thanks, I’ve turned that off HoarseMann, let’s see if that solves it!
You can do it without an alignment tool, however the chances of getting it perfectly repositioned to the last micron is near impossible. It takes guesswork, trial and error, and a lot of refitting and removing your mech.I’ve done it with some flat faced pliers and about an hour of fettling. Yes, the cost (£120 appox Park Tool) hangar tool would have saved me most of that time but I couldn’t afford it at the time. And I know there are cheaper ones, but for such a fiddly job are they really up to the task?
I paid £49 for my Park DAG2 – Derailleur Hanger Alignment Gauge in 2013, so that’s pretty steep 🙁
You could probably do it with a straight edge, to be fair, but the alignment jig makes it easy.
Hanger alignment tool. Maybe a little too niche. I did drop my bike and bend the hanger…but got it back OK with the big adjustables.You can’t possible accurately align the derailleur hanger without a derailleur alignment tool. Seriously. We’re talking about 1 or 2 degrees out of alignment, you can’t see that. And they’re not expensive. And you were asking for recommendations 🙂