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105 as with most Shimano
105 as with most Shimano shifters is normally very crisp. So you probably need to see what the problem is first.Have a look at the cables/derailleur adjustment and lubrication before doing anything rash.
As a last resort I recommend replacing the upper guide pulley — which has rubber bushes allowing it to cushion/soften the shift — with an alloy ceramic bearing pulley (c. £12 on ebay). That will give you a crisper shift but it may feel harsher than normal.
I ride down a too-narrow
I ride down a too-narrow protected bike lane every day that has nowhere to go if a pedestrian steps into it. I’ve god a Cateye bell mounted on the left, just below the STI, that I can operate with my left thumb while braking. I’ve used it a lot, often while braking, just too many idiots walking off the pavement into a bike lane without looking.
A beanie with the biggest
A beanie with the biggest pompom ever seen in captivity.
Even if drivers don’t see me, they’ll see the pompom.
+1 for the Bollé safety
+1 for the Bollé safety glasses. Available in clear or tinted, under a tenner.
Here’s three
Here’s three more:http://www.carboncyclerepairs.co.uk/index.html – gets good wrap up on another cycling website.
http://www.carbonology.com/carbonology-repair-service-c-147.html
Good luck!
May be repairable, there are
May be repairable, there are a number of places astound that do it. Try google?Looks like damage from a stick caught in the spokes to me.
I had some Disco brake blocks
I had some Disco brake blocks in the past, not bad, but I got a better winter bike and was similarly disappointed by the stock Ultegra pads. After reading a lot of recommendations from others I put Swisstop Greens on it. Since then I have done over 2000km in all sorts of weather and they have hardly worn, nor have the rims. I’m really not sure how they do that! Impressive bite even in the rain.I also clean the rims every time I ride in the wet, and occasionally with a tissue dampened with vinegar, which does an excellent job. And sand the pads with a nail file, perfect.
I use an old ski pass card (a credit card also works) to get the required 0.5mm toe-in. It’s easy once you get used to it.
oops
oops
Having had both a Planet X SL
Having had both a Planet X SL Pro and and a Canyon Ultimate AL, I can confidently say that the aluminium Canyon is a vastly better bike. Not more than a few hundred grammes heavier, but a vastly better, stiffer frame and just as comfortable with carbon forks and carbon seatpost.I liked my PX initially, but as I used it I found the SL Pro frame flexy and with weirdly vague steering at speed. That is not something you want on a bike in a 30 mph downhill corner.
Go with a first class Aluminium frame any time over a cheap carbon frame.
Go round to your local dealer
Go round to your local dealer and ride them – it’s the best way to find out what you like.
Probably not what you want to
Probably not what you want to hear, but I’d recommend you get a high-end aluminium bike, not a low-end carbon bike.E.g. Canyon Roadlite AL, Ultimate AL, Cannondale CAAD 10, Kinesis Aithein, Kinesis Roadlite, etc.
Low end carbon is pretty ordinary, whereas the high-end aluminium bikes above are outstanding.
Yes, you might need Shimano
Yes, you might need Shimano R650 non-series brakes, eg:http://www.wiggle.co.uk/shimano-r650-dual-pivot-brake-caliper/
They’re equal to 105 quality.
Have you considered anything
Have you considered anything other than a Specialized?
Have a look at a few Italian
Have a look at a few Italian frames too. They know how to make things look good.
I’m so pleased to see you
I’m so pleased to see you actually test riding bikes before you buy. It’s the best way to find out. Sooner or later one of these is going to feel perfect and that’s the one. Now is a good time to buy, too, because everyone is starting to discount in anticipation of 2014 models.