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Lol, was going to recommend
Lol, was going to recommend it – but then got side tracked as to why it’s disappeared from the market! Hopefully your rash doesn’t get as bad!
Many years ago I had a nasty
Many years ago I had a nasty rash on my leg that got infected. It was horrible, wet and weeping, just wouldn’t dry out and no antiseptic cream would stick to it. I went to the chemists and they recommended some dry iodine spray. It came out like a fine powder, stuck to the wound and cleared it up in no time. Great stuff.
https://www.tesco.com/groceries/en-GB/products/256942529
But – it looks like it’s been banned and you can’t buy it anymore! Does anyone know whether it’s still available as a prescription item? A search for povidone iodine dry spray brings up some options, but all expensive and from websites I’m not familiar with.
I think you need to take a good long hard look at yourself,….Must try harder. Fair play to the water company, I reported it when I got back this morning and they’d been to investigate within a couple of hours. Turns out it’s not their responsibility, belongs to the farm. So I feel slightly better now!
One from this morning. I do
One from this morning. I do feel slightly responsible for this as I noticed a water leak last week on this road, I actually stopped to take a photo of it as I thought that’ll be an ice rink when it gets cold – but I forgot to report it to the water company when I got home.
A bit more DIY, but Colin
A bit more DIY, but Colin Furze has a good shed build tutorial video:
It would need some windows though if using it for more than storage.
2 years prison for crashing
2 years prison for crashing into a field (and a string of other stuff)…
I think the driver stating
I think the driver stating that they couldn’t see you because of no hi-viz is almost an admission of guilt. It seems like they are saying if they *had* seen you, then they wouldn’t have pulled out – i.e. they are conceding your priority at the junction.
Unfortunately, the odds are stacked against you with it being a mini-roundabout. As we know from a couple of previous threads on this website, it’s really difficult to prove fault.
All that matters legally, is whose front wheel crossed the line onto the roundabout first, as they have priority. Without clear evidence, it’s going to be nigh on impossible for the police to secure a prosecution – which might explain their lacklustre enthusiasm to progress your complaint.
To make matters worse, mini-roundabouts are often marked incorrectly by the council; which offers a get-out clause for weasley lawyers to exploit.
You should get compensated for your injuries and damaged property from the driver’s insurance and their punishment will be higher premiums next year.
In terms of getting the police to take action, I would try and approach them calmly, not criticise the officers actions at the time of the collision, as that might get their backs up straight away. Try to ask leading questions such as what are the possible charges that could be brought for roundabout collisions and what level of evidence would be needed to secure a prosecution. This takes them away from your incident and into facts and procedure. You can then draw parallels to your incident and explore the options to take this forward. However, do be prepared that they might not have enough evidence to be confident of a charge – it’s also the case that the police have the discretion whether they are to bring charges or not for some offences, so you need to keep them onside. Get the name/number of the officer dealing with your case.
Good luck and I hope you’re not hurting too much in the morning (if you are, keep a diary of symptoms, more evidence!!).
It does depend on the Garmin
It does depend on the Garmin device. I nearly had a ceremonial burning of my Edge Touring – it did some really weird things mid-ride. But I persevered and found out which settings were causing the problems and now it’s actually pretty good.
I think a problem for Garmin is they just had too wide a product range. So to differentiate devices, they ended up dropping features for no good reason other than to make it a bit different.
For example, the Edge Touring does not have the on-device ‘direct’ routing option that the 810 gets – ostensibly, because you would not want the ‘direct’ route if touring. But in practise, this means it won’t route you down an A road, even if it’s a 30mph limit in a town. So to get from one side of the town to the other, rather than just cross this A road, it’ll send you on a 40 mile loop! ARRRGH!!!!!
But using RideWithGPS and a .TCX route exported and plonked in the NewFiles directory, it works like a charm; turn-by-turn notifications and full mapping in colour.
now 5 outliers.
now 5 outliers.
Same compound. The middle
Same compound. The middle number relates to the pad compound type.
You’re right in thinking
You’re right in thinking sintered last longer than resin – and that could well be a typical wear rate for your use case.
The L04C start at 2mm and are good down to 0.5mm, so you could maybe get another 600 miles out of them.
If your descents are not that long, you could probably get away with the non-finned pads, which are cheaper. Particularly over winter when it’s cold anyway.
I’m not aware of a harder compound pad, but anything harder is likely to make more noise, cause greater wear to the rotors and result in less powerful braking.
https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/product/component/shimano105-r7000/BR-R7070-R.html
+1 for studded tyres.
+1 for studded tyres.
I commuted on Schwalbe Winters for 4 years. I put them on first frost and they stayed on until the spring. I think if you are commuting, you don’t want to bother with the faff of switching wheelsets. Plus, if you’re at work and unexpected bad weather rolls in, it’s no good having the studded tyres back home.
They are obviously slower and heavier than summer tyres, but for me it was well worth the 2 mph-ish drop in average speed for the confidence they give you – especially when riding in the dark. I’m based near Milton Keynes and similarly used country roads and a cycle path, but with some quite busy sections.
They also work well when there’s no ice, as the deep tread cuts right through mud and leaf mulch. You get used to the sound they make in the dry – a bit like riding on rice crispies. They go quiet when you roll onto a patch of ice.
I used the ‘winters’ rather than the ‘marathon winter’ as it’s available in a 30mm which meant I could still get mudguards on, plus has half the number of studs, so a bit lighter and rolls better in the dry. Just make sure to use gloves when fitting so you don’t rip your hands to shreds!
How on earth can no offence
How on earth can no offence have been committed?!
I mean really, if the driver was not anticipating meeting a horse around a bend on that road, then there’s no hope for anywhere else…
Well I popped out to the
Well I popped out to the garage and grabbed the calipers – an old 27-1-1/4 came up at 29.5mm and some newer Conti GP4000 28C’s came up at 30mm.
I would say though, that the old bike is more comfortable than the new one – even with the 28C’s run down at 50-60psi. But obv. a lot slower!
Like you say, there are more factors than just tyre size – chromed steel rims vs alloy. Steel fork with a huge trail and loads of flex. Then there’s just the sheer weight of the old bike – that seems to deaden road buzz.
I’d go with the frame that can take 32C’s, then you’ve got the flexibility to up a tyre size or fit guards. I’ve had 32C G-One’s on the newer bike and they’re probably closer to the ride quality of the old bike.
