Forum Replies Created
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Apparently you need to use
Apparently you need to use the ‘correct finger placement’ as per…
It seems a bit of a faff to have to remove the drive pack from the frame and then the battery from that pack in order to charge it. I guess it means they can save a bit of weight by utilising the same connector for drive and charge.
Also looks a bit too easy to fumble and drop, especially after a long winter ride when hands are cold. I’d be putting something like a foam pad under the bike before attempting the extraction procedure! Especially as I think the only way to make it easier is to make the battery slippery by giving it a polish (just normal pledge/mr sheen if suitable for plastic should be good enough, silicon polish better if you’ve got some).
Glad to hear it’s made riding more enjoyable. I am really tempted by an ebike.
I would add c) The cause of that collision was not that the car driver failed to accelerate fast enough, the problem was that the lorry driver failed to look properly!for sure, but with a lot of left hand drive HGVs on our roads, it happens more than it ought to.
I’m careful not to put myself in that position, only passing a HGV when I can get past in one swift overtake, but it’s not always possible. I always watch for drift when passing too.
I’m genuinely trying to work out what sort of collision could be avoided by the 15mph boost?This is the sort of thing that’s quite common where a short burst of acceleration could get you out of trouble…
I’ve only noticed my rear
I only noticed my rear wheel had got a slight wobble when fitting mudguards recently. I’m ignoring it unless it starts rubbing on anything. Another low-maintenance win for disc brakes!
side lights and front fogs…
side lights and front fogs… but only because you at least needed the side lights on for them to work! (I changed my ways a long time ago
)Sriracha wrote:
So they are not really a problem if they are used sans-fog.Well I once got pulled by the police for driving around with front fogs on at dusk on a clear day, I was an unwise teenager using them for their proper intended purpose; to display to all that you are not driving the poverty spec. model
– oops.The sun was very low and behind me, so I explained to the officer, would make me more visible. Offered advice and sent on my way.
Well I’m chuffed to hear that
Well I’m chuffed to hear that! That’s a fairly quick turn around in the current circumstances too. Props to Whyte for excellent customer care and standing by their product.
After your comment caused me to inspect the undercarriage of the bike a bit more closely than I’d ever done before, I noticed that the gear cables were being pulled a bit severely to one side, almost rubbing against the braze-ons. I also noted there was another hole that the cable guide could be bolted to, so I shifted the cable guide over towards the chainrings. What a difference! The gear shifts are now much lighter and snappier – can’t believe I’d ridden 10k miles with it like that!
I do wonder what portion of
I do wonder what portion of the Kent lorry parks’ costs are covered by Nigel’s VED contribution?
Maybe he’s setting the scene to blame the predicted post-brexit traffic chaos at the ports, on a bike lane somewhere in Dover.
I had put it down to incompetence, utter disregard to theirs or others safetyIt’s definately that too; the ones moaning about being dazzled by fog lights ’cause it’s not foggy enough are also the ones tanking along with no lights on ’cause it’s not *that* foggy – until suddenly it is that foggy and they’re going too fast.
0-0 wrote:
I think it depends if the driver is smart enough to switch their lights on when driving in fog. Some I past today, whilst riding in the fog, weren’t.Given how much moaning there was on our works forum about people having fog lights on when it wasn’t foggy enough, I think it’s a badge of honour for some drivers to not put their lights on!
If the fog’s that bad, I would only rely on very bright lights being an effective safety measure (> 75 lumens).
For the ankle bands, I’d just stick with reflective in the dark and fluro when it’s light.
I heard of someone who filled
I heard of someone who filled his kids bike trailer with sacks of logs to add resistance for training!
Could be that the cassette
Could be that the cassette looked and felt tight, but it wasn’t quite enough without the spacer. Fingers crossed you’ll be gliding along in blissful silence on the next ride 🙂
Glad it’s sorted. I’d be
Glad it’s sorted. I’d be tempted to source a slightly thicker spacer and make sure that there is zero play in the cassette and no clunking sound when first putting the power down. That lock ring needs quite a bit of force to tighten down properly and compress the cassette cogs into a solid block.
quelle horreur! just watched
quelle horreur! just watched the vid – you can’t live with that.
maybe it’s possessed? a light misting of holy water and a sermon should sort it?
it does sound a bit like the cassette rattle on the freehub body that I had a while ago. I’m wondering if it’s possible to remove the freehub/cassette interface from the equation by taking a thickish old rag (pipe foam, or bubble wrap even?) and wrapping it (jamming it) between the back of the cassette and spokes/hub, just enough to stop it freewheeling and preventing any cassette/freehub wobble…
weird. all I can think is it
weird. all I can think is it’s some fluke resonant virbration with the frame. try holding various bit of the frame whilst spinning crank to see if it damps the noise at all.
other than that – make sure top jockey wheel has got the side-to-side float. check there is no play in the cassette on freehub, I once had a bad rattle that was due to that, packed it out with a spacer.
)
– oops.