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That does not look like the worlds fastest bike.
Fast enough though and pretty much a perfect city bike… hub dynamo, son edelux front light, bombproof sturmey 3 speed, folds so can blag it onto a train/bus, mudguards, looks a heap so unattractive to thieves… just the brakes that are probably a bit ropey, especially in the wet.
StoopidUserName wrote:
Fly12 is your only real option. More of a commuting camera which explains the built in light and long battery life. 10 hours for the first gen, 8 hours for the latestI can recommend the fly 12. Been using a first gen one for over a year and it’s been reliable. It’s quite a heavy lump though, but that gives you the long run time and it is a doddle to use.
I started off with a shimano cm2000 bought when they were £55. It’s impressively light weight and picture quality good once I’d found the optimal setting (narrow fov 720 60fps). But the battery is tiny. An hour at best on the high res setting and the most I got was nearly 2 hours on low res. I paired it with a cheap rechargeable power pack and could power it from that via USB (when not raining). But it was a faff and although the battery is swappable, you can’t buy replacements or any of the accessories.
and that was me just over a
and that was me just over a year ago, lovely sunny ride into work, lots of considerate drivers and I thought to myself, things are getting better. Then a mile down the road a white van tries to run me off the road…I used to ride a Peugeot
I used to ride a Peugeot ‘Black Mamba’ in the late eighties. Thankfully I was too young to know that is a common name applied to a more ‘adult’ object for riding.
Strava has created an app for
Strava has created an app for the Garmin 1000 that should be the easiest way to do it…https://apps.garmin.com/en-GB/apps/945c964a-314b-41fa-9a13-32a1f7931335#0
This has a seat post mount
This has a seat post mount with metal theft proof band. Light is also automatic, turning itself on/off depending on motion and light levels.
https://www.bike-discount.de/en/buy/busch-mueller-ix-back-senso-139989
Crikey Burt you’ve been
Crikey Burt you’ve been through a really rough time. You need some proper legal advice for the compensation question.As for the phobia issue, I had something similar after a nasty incident. It’s been over a year for me and I’m back on the bike, but still nervous. I’ve helped my confidence by getting cameras front and back, a mirror to keep an eye on what’s behind and a change to my working hours resulted in commuting when the roads are quieter, oh, and some counselling and pills from the doc too. It’s been difficult not to get upset about the weight I’ve gained or the fitness I’ve lost, through no fault of my own.
Good luck with your recovery.
I had a sidewall failure on
I had a sidewall failure on tubed pro ones which lead to a blow out. I’d done less than 100 miles on them. Compared with the Conti GP4000 I usually run, they seemed very fragile.Thanks, HoarseMan.Be interesting to know whether you managed to get the 700c wheels to line up with the brake calipers.Only just.
I had assumed, based on the distance between the drop-outs and the fork crown, that it used to have 27″ (ISO 630) wheels, so a 700c (ISO 622) would mean the brake blocks only need to move approx. 4mm higher to align with the rim (subtract the BSDs -> 630 – 622 = 8, then divide by 2 for difference in radius -> 4).
However when I put the calipers back on the slots for brake shoes were mostly below the rim, so it looked like they were to align with old(est)*** 26″ rims (ISO 590 or 584 depending on cross section), and referring back to the specs in the 1956 catalogue this was confirmed.
So actually the blocks needed to sit about 19 mm higher ((584 – 622)/2). Fortunately there was just enough travel provided in the caliper slots. Otherwise I might have had to resort to Plan 650B (ISO 584).
Anyway, I now know far more about wheel/tyre sizes than I ever wanted to, thanks to Sheldon Brown and this handy page on the Cycling UK website:
https://www.cyclinguk.org/cyclists-library/components/wheels-tyres/tyre-sizes
***as opposed to ‘old’ 26″ wheels found on ‘old’ MTBs (ISO 559).
That’s useful to know, thanks. The old steel rims are shot to bits and the braking surface very poor on mine. Plus tyres in the old 26inch size are hard to find and a bit naff. Maybe one day I’ll put some new hoops on it…
Nice job, looks great!
Nice job, looks great!So the Halfords description states ” range of between 9-11 miles making a great way to get to or from the train station or work.”It then gives the warning that these scooters cannot be used on the public highway and only on private property with the owners consent..
Since when have train stations been accessible from anything other than the public highway? What percentage of the working population have their employment on private land that they both live and earn their living?
Surely this is mis-advertising and against the consumer protection act which, I believe, says that you cannot mislead or harass consumers by making false or deceptive messages.
They’ve changed the wording! It’s now a “great way to get around” rather than mentioning work or the train station. Still, a bit dubious…
In brief, nope not legal if
In brief, nope not legal if it assists up to 35mph. Basically it’s classed as a motorbike unless below 250W and assist up to 15.5mph only.Less likely to get pulled by police if you are sensible, as it could pass as a legal Ebike. Whereas electric scooters are easy to spot and a definite no-no.
Stevenage.Well, they nearly got it right in Stevenage… https://www.theguardian.com/cities/2017/sep/19/britains-1960s-cycling-revolution-flopped-stevenage Certainly a better attempt than Milton Keynes. At least in Stevenage it’s the road that varies in elevation at underpasses.
Er, no it doesn’t, quite the opposite and is in part a major reason as to why it was designed to fail from the outset and has always meant cycling numbers are low and indeed much lower than some other towns/cities that do not have any cycling infra.
Try making a 120 degree turn out of a dark underpass that leads straight into a 4-5% incline and having to worry about peds at the same time.
Here’s one example of many that blows your statement apart.
I think you are right. I thought keeping the cycle paths level was one of the design tenets, but perhaps not. At least they are a lot wider and segregated from pedestrians in places. The junction approach angles look better than the 90 degrees you get in Milton Keynes.
Stevenage.Well, they nearly got it right in Stevenage…
https://www.theguardian.com/cities/2017/sep/19/britains-1960s-cycling-revolution-flopped-stevenage
Certainly a better attempt than Milton Keynes. At least in Stevenage it’s the road that varies in elevation at underpasses.
Last time I visited Newcastle
Last time I visited Newcastle upon Tyne I was impressed with the investment in cycling infrastructure. Particularly John Dobson Street, which was a dual carriageway that’s now been converted to a cycle and bus lane.If fact, I was so amazed by the cycle lane, I didn’t see the sign that said buses only and got caught in the bus lane by an anpr camera (whoops!).
