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HoarseMann
Could you unbolt the
Could you unbolt the handlebars from the stem and unscrew the whole stem? If you pull up on the stem whilst unscrewing it there might be enough friction between the bolt and head cap to loosen it.
HoarseMann
Looks like a Raleigh Superbe.
Looks like a Raleigh Superbe. It’s got the little wheel by the seat post for the sturmey 3 speed cable, which makes me think it could be a bit earlier than the 70’s, maybe 1950’s?HoarseMann
A clear laquer top coat might
A clear laquer top coat might help. But sounds like the undercoat hasn’t bonded to the frame properly for some reason. A wipe down with a solvent before painting next time will help remove any last traces of grease before priming.
Or could be the paint is just not tough enough, might need to look at the car spray cans in Halfords as an option. I’ve had success respraying a frame with those.
However, spray can paint is not as tough as the powdered enamel that is more commonly used on new bikes. But you need a spray booth, airline, mask and oven for that – or find a company that can do it for you.
HoarseMann
Sometimes I deploy ‘wobbly
Sometimes I deploy ‘wobbly cyclist’ mode in this situation. Weave about a bit in the lane from primary to the offside edge of the lane looking like I’m thinking about overtaking the car in front. Puts off driver behind as I look so unpredictable.Indicating to turn right can also work (then sort of edge out a bit rather than make a right turn and eye contact & a wave back to thank the vehicle behind for waiting).
But like any of these sort of hacks, there’s a time and a place. If it’s a busy city centre with lots of filtering traffic you don’t want your weaving about to cause a collision. Plus you need to know what’s approaching in advance, so works better if you ride with a mirror.
HoarseMann
…
…HoarseMann
Hannah spends 20mins driving
Hannah spends 20mins driving 1.5miles to work and Peter can’t cycle as there are too many cars, so he drives.Depressing.
These big developers need to be forced to do more to provide adequate active travel options. Not going to be much of a community with everyone isolated in their cars and the pavements deserted.
HoarseMann
Stratman wrote:Thanks all for the comments, I may be running them at too high pressure, I’ll try them a little softer.I’ve ridden the same hill hundreds of times on GP4S and never once had a slip.
On the few occasions I’ve been swayed by the claims of the latest and greatest, I’ve always ended up going back to Conti’s.
HoarseMann
A big reason is taking the
A big reason is taking the car involves no forethought or planning.There are a lot of things to consider when taking the bike. Once you are in the routine of commuting by bike it’s ok, but there is a hurdle to overcome that not many can be bothered to tackle.
HoarseMann
Safety is the biggest concern
Safety is the biggest concern for my wife.
On the UK roads most drivers are considerate, but there are enough bad drivers to almost guarantee a scary incident on every ride.
Cycle infrastructure should help, but in the UK it is often a muggers paradise of quiet alleyways lined with bushes.
Then you’ve got the occasional aggression just for being out on a bike minding your own business…
HoarseMann
Use ridewithgps.com (there’s
Use ridewithgps.com (there’s a free sign up option) to create a route and export the route as a .tcx. Drop that file in the NewFiles directory on the garmin and see if that works.
These ‘head south’ turn by turn notifications usually crop up when your route planning software has embedded notifications in the route file, rather than letting the garmin deal with it.
June 2, 2018 at 10:24 am in reply to: Not Garmin – Decent bike GPS that does not require a smart phone #920533HoarseMann
The Garmin PC software is
The Garmin PC software is dire. Sounds like this is the problem rather than the GPS itself.
The connect express application seems to work reliably for uploading rides to strava… but downloading routes using their software is hopeless. Don’t even try to use the mapping tools!
The only way I’ve found that works is planning routes with ridewithgps.com website, exporting as a .tcx and then saving the .tcx in the NewFiles folder on the Garmin SD card.
Trying to get the Garmin to plot a route itself usually ends up a long way round disaster of unsurfaced paths.
HoarseMann
StraelGuy wrote:Some decent daytime running lights – a really good rear, especially.+1 for this.
for £100 I’d get an exposure trace R day bright rear and a cat eye volt 800 up front
then put any leftovers towards a cheap waterproof jacket that will stuff easily in a jersey pocket
HoarseMann
It’s useless for creating a
It’s useless for creating a route on the fly. The touring lacks the direct routing option that the 800 has, which means routes will avoid A roads at all costs. It won’t let a route go over an A road at a cross roads or roundabout, resulting in some hilariously torturously long journeys. Apparently this is what touring cyclists want.
However, it has been brilliant for following routes created on the RideWithGPS website and exported as a TCX file. Turn by turn directions with junction map popping up with a beep, and 10 hours plus battery life. I also use a lightning to micro SD card adapter to transfer routes to/from my iPhone.
HoarseMann
I really like Pocket Earth
I really like Pocket Earth for route planning on mobile. It is quick and easy to add waypoints and drag them around. Also, maps are downloadable, so re-routing mid ride in a weak signal area is no problem. Has turn by turn directions.
But it doesn’t do elevation. I use RideWithGPS for that, but need to use website which is a bit tricky on the phone.
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