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HoarseMann
So Halfords are selling a
So Halfords are selling a bike with odd sized wheels that they can’t source replacement tyres for and the tyres supplied with the bike are far from robust in construction? What’s the marketing: “Ride it ’till the tyres wear out”?!
HoarseMann
Miller wrote:
Miller wrote:Latest news is that google is soon discontinuing the ability to upload photo paths.Google is shutting down its dedicated Street View app next year
Looks like they’re getting rid of the street view app, which is a shame (21st March 2023). I’m hoping they integrate the photo path feature with the maps app and add iOS support.
HoarseMann
My gast is flabbered. Once
My gast is flabbered. Once you get past the bit where he nails his colours to the mast as not being one of ‘them’ Lycra wearing, camera toting, cyclists. It’s actually quite good.
The initial ‘I’m not one of them’ does take the shine off a piece arguing against an us & them culture, but from that publication, it’s a revelation!
HoarseMann
You don’t even need a
You don’t even need a 360degree camera. If you’ve got an Android phone, you can upload ‘photo path’ images, which are not 360 degree, but are ideal for things like cycle paths, where you’re mainly concerned with an image of the surface.
This is what it looks like on streetview:
HoarseMann
That won’t be google, but a
That won’t be google, but a kind volunteer who has uploaded the imagery using their own equipment.
HoarseMann
A non-spill thermal type cup
A non-spill thermal type cup sounds a lot like a thermos flask! Sort of reminds me of the bikepacking seat pack vs rack and pannier
So with that in mind, perhaps you need a more ‘bike packing’ solution? Rather than use a bottle cage (too much ‘rack’ like), a stem mounted bottle bag might be a better option, something like this:
https://www.planetx.co.uk/i/q/CCPODSBB/podsacs-stem-bottle-bag
As for non-spill cups, my go-to for things like this has always been Sigg. Especially the stainless steel products…
https://sigg.com/uk/travel-mug-miracle-brushed-0-27l/
https://sigg.com/uk/travel-mug-miracle-brushed-0-47l/or just get a thermos…
https://sigg.com/uk/thermo-flask-gemstone-ibt-selenite-0-75l/HoarseMann
Yep, it’s difficult to make
Yep, it’s difficult to make the right call in the moment, as you can never be too sure what they’re going to do.
I had a similar situation 3 weeks ago, mostly held my line and shouted like you did. I think it’s just instinctive. But on review, I think I would have been better off swerving left, even with the wall. I did move left, but not enough and not quickly enough.
Here’s a still image below: 2 cars ahead stopping for a long line of parked cars, you can just see the oncoming vehicle approaching (going quite quickly) and the bumper of the van trying to squeeze me into the kerb in the bottom right. They did brake and fall back in behind me, but missed my rear wheel by inches. Words were exchanged (something else I usually avoid doing!).

HoarseMann
Assertive riding can’t
Assertive riding can’t prevent a driver making a stupid move, but it mostly can create space to enable the cyclist to take evasive action. Riding in primary worked here as the BMW used the opposing lane to pass.
You managed to handle it with a shout and a swerve, with a fast unfolding situation like that you do have to react on instinct. But as Awavey says, I think once the car was committed, a better option would be to move back to secondary and brake, to let them get past. Although you would have to consider the following riders wouldn’t crash into the back of you.
HoarseMann
Image quality on the Garmin
Image quality on the Garmin looks good, but I really like the time/location/speed overlay on the video. Have you added that in post or does the 715 get all that data streamed live from the head unit?
If so, that’s another big advantage. Just having accurate time is a big plus, as the clock drift on the Cycliqs can be quite noticeable.
HoarseMann
Good overview.
Good overview.
I would go for a Garmin RCT715. It’s 3-in-1, so just a single unit to fix to the seat post and will turn on/off with your head unit. No need to fiddle with any buttons on it. It’s pricey at £350, but you could argue good value if you were to buy a radar, camera and light separately.
Second choice would be a Fly 6. I note there is a Version 3 about to be released. They’ve reverted to the charge port on the side, rather than the top as on the CE. So hopefully those water ingress failures are a thing of the past.
I bought 2 cheap (<£50) action cameras and tried to bodge them to work on the bike before giving in and shelling out for a cycliq (fly 6 non-CE).
One of my cheap cameras was actually excellent value, it was a Shimano CM-2000, a £300 action camera I got discounted for £50. Whilst it’s got great mounting options, is really light and waterproof with super image quality (as good as a GoPro), including image stabilisation. The battery lasted 2hrs tops and though replaceable, you couldn’t actually buy a replacement! The buttons were also incredibly fiddly and the app a bit pants. All in all, it did the job, but was such a frustrating experience to use I gave up on it.
HoarseMann
wycombewheeler wrote:two vehicles appraoching a mini roundabout, if the one coming from the left he can get there first and be “established” on the roundabout before the one from the right enters the roundabout 0.2s later.But this is mitigated by the potential for a vehicle to emerge in front. So there is a limit to how fast you can approach a roundabout, because you need to factor in vehicles coming from 2 directions.
It’s certainly a game of chicken if you only consider that you have to give way to your right. If you can see that direction is clear, then the faster you approach the roundabout, the sooner you get ‘priority’ over vehicles emerging from the left.
HoarseMann
There are some roundabouts
There are some roundabouts where you can enter without giving way. It’s not common, but some have give way markings for circulating traffic, such as this one… https://goo.gl/maps/m7hfcXFgoVGVYCZW6
On a mini-roundabout, the thick/short dashed lines and the double-dashed give way markings hold the same mandatory ‘MUST’ requirement to give way to traffic circulating on the roundabout. They mean exactly the same thing, but the ‘give way’ lines are sometimes chosen to make the junction more prominent; it lets them throw up a give way sign as well as a blue circle of arrows.
The white circle marking also has this mandatory requirement, so is effectively a give way too!
“no vehicle is to proceed past the [white circle] marking in a manner, or at a time, likely to endanger any person, or to cause the driver of another vehicle to change its speed or course in order to avoid an accident”
HoarseMann
wycombewheeler wrote:Effectively allowing an interpretation that leads to a game of chicken.It’s not really a game of chicken, it’s ensuring that you give priority to the right to vehicles on the roundabout AND don’t crash into any vehicles already ahead of you on the roundabout.
That effectively means you need to be prepared to deal with traffic coming from the right AND emerging from the left before you reach the roundabout. Which is what any competent driver would do.
The trouble is, the highway code doesn’t emphasise this enough, ‘look forward before moving off’ sounds like you only need to look forward if you had stopped!
HoarseMann
yep, it’s possible the ‘tenon
yep, it’s possible the ‘tenon’ bit is too fat. Are the surfaces of the toothed adjustment ring painted? A bit too much paint there would account for the tolerance issue. It’s also worth having a look at those mating surfaces for any debris that could be trapped in there. I’d also try adjusting the stem to a different angle, to change those mating surfaces a bit and see if that has any effect on the clamp bolt gap.
HoarseMann
Having a look at the drawings
Having a look at the drawings for this stem, it looks like it is split at the front as well as the rear. So with that in mind, perhaps the order with which the front and rear bolts are tightened matters?
I’d try slackening off the clamp bolts, then torque the raise adjustment bolt first followed by the clamp bolts.

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