Forum Replies Created
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Evo all day long. Lovely
Evo all day long. Lovely handling perfect for the descents and not silly money to get under 7kg with mechanical shifting/rim brakes so perfect for climbing. If you ride in the wet then go disc as that part of the world has some wicked descents and I’d not want to run out of brakes.Full disclosure I own a HM evo and my next bike will be a HM evo with or without disc.
I’d ride on the left and if I
I’d ride on the left and if I felt in danger because of car doors I’d ride towards the middle. Riding on the right in my opinion would confuse a driver. personally as a driver I wouldn’t want to ‘under take’ a cyclist because its not a normal place to be and I’d think the cyclist could be unpredictable so I’d be cautious. A driver that has no time for cyclists could be kick off.Was listening to a podcast
Was listening to a podcast think it was cycling tips and their tech editor wasn’t convinced by tubeless on anything under 25mm and even then 28mm and above seemed to be his preference because of fitting and being able to run lower pressures which is the whole point. I’ve got 2 sets of compatible wheels and will give a whirl on the next set of tyres i buy. I’d love to get 6000 miles out of mine generally less than 4k rotating gp4000’s front to back and I normally loose one with a major split or bulge.Day job is designing cars so
Day job is designing cars so i guess i might like a drop of petrol although these days electricary seems to be taking over which just isn’t the same even if technically it is superior for performance.
My last decent performance car was an Elise the last year i owned it i did more miles on the bike so it had to go! Down to a Golf and an estate although i was just looking at a bike engined mini.
Well I’ve bought a new
Well I’ve bought a new trainer should turn up this week against my better judgement i’ve gone for a tacx Flux I just couldn’t justify spending the additional money on a kickr and with the British cycling discount at CRC it worked out not to bad. If the thing blows up CRC should be pretty good and with a 2 year european warranty i should be reasonably safe.
I’ve been try Xert for the last few weeks again and am really liking it so may use that for a while they have a good android & a Garmin connect app. Before i started using TR the concepts they used were difficult to understand but now i get the basics. The simplified explanation is it’s a cycling fuel gauage that runs on your garmin and for your given effort will tell you how long you have till you’ll pop. Their workout planer also works in this way and they have a resonable library you can use or build your own so i will use that for trainer workouts.
I’ve been doing trainer road
I’ve been doing trainer road over the winter and have seen some good improvements i also run power on my bikes so i suppose that puts me in the serious category.My broken trainer is a tacx smart low end trainer. Which I have now repaired twice. The next jump up to a trainer more ‘pro’ and hopefully more reliable is around a £1k with nothing in the middle. The Tacx flux seemed like a middle ground on cost/performance but the reliability of the early ones has been shocking. Guess i just don’t want to put my hand in my pocket!
keeweeman wrote:
Cheers again folks, thanks for clearing up the difference between bb30, bb30a and pf30. I am off next week and going away for a couple of days with the missus so I may drop it into my lbs and ask him to give it a once over and try and address any creaks etc as he goes. Doing the slateman tri in llanberis next month so would rather get it sorted before thenoon!Sergius, speaking from past experience I have only ever replace bottom brackets when they fail, although by fail I mean start creaking and showing signs that they are on the way out. That said most failures I have had in the past where when I was a downhill mountain biker so until the advent of hollowtec ii cranksets they were always either sealed square taper brackets that weren’t serviceable or just bearings when I switched over to 3 piece cranks lol.
That’s the issue with BB30/pf30 it can be one of several possible issues and running it down can be a bugger hence the bad rep. I bet mechanics love it when a customer brings a BB30 bike and goes out the back and hides when a pf30 rolls in.
My BB30 bike you can feel the roughness in the bearing when you spin the inner race with your finger that said it felt like that 1000 miles ago and still runs silent bikes getting stripped and rebuilt after 2 winters and lots of hours on the trainer so about time it’s done.
Over shoes for me i have
Over shoes for me i have tried many cheap ones but bought some craft ones. Perfect fit. Their gloves are also good.
I’m thinking about ‘winter’ to i blew up my trainer yesterday with the vast wattage i put out. Weighing up buying a new control board (a resistor has popped) or upgrading to a kickr although i cant find any really good deals think i may have missed the boat.I have an evo which is pf30
I have an evo which is pf30 which did suffer badly from this when i built it up. I found that when i removed the cranks and regreased the axle it would disappear for 50 miles and then return. I looked at many options including the wheels manufacturing (their are others out their now) had a think and realised it’s wasn’t actually the bearings but the shell width.
The shell is slightly under size in width and when my crankset was tightened up with all of the appropriate spacers (SRAM) i still had a very small amount of play which caused the noise when the grease was pushed out. I made some micro spacers up from the clear packaging you get never get into and this solved my problem. Haven’t had a creak since and that Bike/bb now has 2500 miles on it.So if i was you I’d regrease the crank axle and see if it disappears. If it does you may have found your problem. If you hear no change then the problem may well be the shell diameter out of spec to the bearing/cup only way to solve it is new BB, loctite, or a screw in cup bearing like the wheels manufacturing BB.
BB30/pf30 can certainly be sensitive and the only thing you can do is trial and error. My other bike is BB30 and the bearings will get replaced shortly after 7500 miles with zero issues they’ve finally started to grumble.
11-32 works and I briefly
11-32 works and I briefly tried it with a 52 mid compact on ultegra di2 short cage. You really need to be careful with 2 things.
Chain length especially cross chaining you could end up ripping the derauiler off and if you have short chainstays when cross chained you can get rubbing or damage the front derailleur.I didn’t like it and had some SRAM compact rings i picked up cheap so run in like that in the mountains.
Always been tempted by
Always been tempted by chinese carbon but then always thought better of it at the end of the day you are putting your life in their hands.
I think if some of these chinese brands put a bit of effort on their sites into showing what testing they do and really going to town on it they would change the perception. I have no issue of where they come from but the safety aspect just puts me off.
11-32 will fit most bikes
11-32 will fit most bikes with a short cage. Just turn the B-screws all the way in. Went to the alps last year and changed my bike over to 50/34 and 11/32 on a di2 shortcage. No issues just make sure your chain is long enough or it may snap the rear derailleur. I didn’t need to change mine .
Golden cheetah for free. Bit
Golden cheetah for free. Bit of a learning curve but comparing 2 rides is easy google is your friend. Basically training peaks but free.
Or DC Rainmaker has just launched an app for doing this that appears super easy to use but is paid for.
Wouldn’t worry to much about
Wouldn’t worry to much about the app plenty of others about which are much better. If you have a Garmin edge maybe use that while I figure it all out?
The vortex smart is a good entry trainer smart but having ridden some of the more expensive ones it does have limitations but then for those trainers your paying £500-£600 more. The power readings can be a fair bit off but they are consistent across rides and that’s all that really matters. Mine consistently reads 20 watts under compared to my power meterContact tacx that doesn’t
Contact tacx that doesn’t sound right. Had mine a few years now did have issues with Bluetooth pairing with an iPad when I first got it but you could generally get it working with some faffing. I don’t use the tacx app anymore and only use ant+ and fe-c never had an issue. Maybe try some different apps/devices before contacting them.
