pablo

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  • in reply to: Schwalbe Pro One tubeless availability #984593
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    pablo

    Not an issue I recognise
    Not an issue I recognise personally went from gp4000 and 5000 to pro one TL and found grip levels to be comparable. The only thing I can think of is pressures. Run gp’s at 80 psi tubed and the pro ones at around 60.

    in reply to: Sustainable Bike Choice #983763
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    pablo

    Well can of worms.  So Steel

    Well can of worms.  So Steel requires much less energy to produce than aluminium as a raw material but very little material is raw and often includes a high percentage of recycled content.  Recycled steel and Aluminium have a very silmilar energy cost.  Steel would then be the obvious choice for total energy outlay although i think it could be argued that getting the most out of the Aluminium (as so much energy has been outlayed to produce)could also be argued for if you can guarantee the recycled content.  I did some research at work for a customer on sustainability of steel and i found a letter for a UK steel producer saying in the UK 75% of all steel is recycled.  

    in reply to: Uploading videos advice #983291
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    pablo

    Speaking to my brother-in-law
    Speaking to my brother-in-law a few weeks ago. He was contacted when he submitted a load of close passes by an officer via phone. He was advised to submit within 24 hours the officers opinion was that unless you submit quickly a lawyer for the defense could argue it wasn’t such a serious issue because you took X number of days to submit. I have no idea why the time to report is relevant but that’s what he was told. I think he’s reported since based on that advise and has had some positive results

    in reply to: Ribble rant (well, more of a whinge) #979957
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    pablo

    Sounds like the coms has been
    Sounds like the coms has been pretty bad at least a heads up that supply problems may affect delivery dates may have helped.
    I would imagine they and many other bike companies don’t really know what stock they have until they build because their orders aren’t being fulfilled by suppliers.
    I saw a guy trying to scalp a DI2 ultegra shifter for £250 last week the world has gone nuts!

    pablo

    Alu Caad or Palace R for sure
    Alu Caad or Palace R for sure. used rim brake but the disc version isn’t that much different go old skool Caad. Both are great to ride and can take a 28mm tyre. Gearing can be changed easily so as long as you find one compact which I would imagine most are anyway job done

    in reply to: Variable height #979545
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    pablo

    Wahoo uses barometric
    Wahoo uses barometric pressure as does Garmin. What your seeing is pretty common although 3x is a bit much. Map data historically hasn’t been that accurate for height so they don’t use it.

    in reply to: advantage of deep section rims for slower riders #978173
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    pablo

    Never really felt that much

    Never really felt that much difference on deep sections and a traditional style frame back to back rides on the same course were generally the same average within 0.5mph so is that wind or other factors. My aero bike and 303s on the other hand are noticeably faster on the same course. 

    The reviews do make me laugh though when they state the numbers used. 

    But let’s be honest the look cool that’s why we buy them. 

    in reply to: Reverting from discs, to callipers… #977541
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    pablo

    These questions are so
    These questions are so difficult to answer because of so many variables but……

    On a nice dry day I would 100% get the rim brake bike out as it’s just so lovely to ride and feels light on it feet and braking even on carbon rims is pretty good. On a shite day like today then 100% disc more braking confidence equals faster progress. I find hydraulic discs to be much less rub prone than rim brakes this time of year they sound awful as the grime gets ground into the rim. You do get that on disc but it seems to clear up in no time.

    in reply to: Pain in the outside of my foot #975707
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    pablo

    Yep cleat position and the

    Yep cleat position and the drillingposition for the cleat on the shoe is as important as size but is a little overlooked as every manfacturer puts them in a different place relative to the heal.  

    Fizik are well known for having drillings very far forward compared to other brands they are perfect for people with decent flexibility but if your not then they can cause problems.  

    I had a lovely pair of Fiziks but i developed problems a little while after i bought them but didn’t associate the shoes with the issues until i went back to my fitter who within 5 minutes told me that due to my tight hamstrings they were completely wrong for me and to get rid.  I went back to my previous brand as recommended and the problem soon cleared up.  The drillings were 15mm different when the shoes were aligned heal to heal.  When you looked at the videos it was causing me to ride massively toe down we the weight pushing to the outside of my foot.

    I’m not picking on Fizik i’m sure other brands are similar it’s just from my experiance with them.

     

     

    in reply to: Bike-Fit Question #974207
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    pablo

    Ah bike fiting is a complete

    Ah bike fiting is a complete can of worms.  The trueth is most of the ‘science’ is questionable at best. I’ve had 2 and been pretty happy with them as i did the research on who was doing it.  Go by reputation not system actaully stay away from systems.  Most fiters should use a jig and will give you the dimensions after and also transfer them to your bike and then put you on a turbo to make sure they still make sense.  For additional bikes they will obviously charge more.  If you are having problems after the fit go back to them they should fix the issue FOC.  

    in reply to: Chrome or steel wheel bearings #973933
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    pablo

    I’ve never seen chrome plated

    I’ve never seen chrome plated bearings so assuming they are not which i highly doubt because that would be stupid Chromium steel  is stainless steel. 

    in reply to: Share your advice for those new to cycling! #973757
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    pablo

    Don’t buy a new bike buy
    Don’t buy a new bike buy something used and preferably cheap as what you think you want in a bike often changes after the first few months as you learn.
    Clothing is really important more so than that first bike but you don’t need to spend a fortune. The best investment is bib shorts or big tights with padding but not shorts as they move around. This will mean your soft bits remain comfortable and you won’t throw your bike away after the second ride even if you look a plonker to 95% of the general public.
    A small toolkit (pump, spare inner tube, and tyre levers) is a must.
    Don’t worry about what other people think Inc Family, Friends, other cyclists, or random idiots. Just ride your bike everyone starts the same way.

    pablo

    I run 303s tubeless with a
    I run 303s tubeless with a 28mm @ 60psi on my aero bike and they are faster than my old clincher 50’s. The biggest difference in real world speed is comfort not rolling resistance. My average power tends to be higher because I can carry more speed because road conditions are less of an issue. 25mm with latex inner tubes on a test rig are marginally faster. A side benefit of latex tubes is the are also more supple so more comfortable as well it’s just a pain pumping them up all the time

    in reply to: Internal cables… replacement questions #973469
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    pablo

    100% liners is the easiest
    100% liners is the easiest method undo rear derailleur cable and thread liner onto cable back up to the exit port on frame. The last bike I did a few months ago already had liners so this couldn’t be done easily so it was a cranks off job. If your bar tape is rubbish might as well do that at the same time as it all at least partially have to be taken off.

    in reply to: Assioma duo power meters – wasted money? #973291
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    pablo

    Check in the app. They are a
    Check in the app. They are a solid set of pedals. I’m not really sure why your interested in L/R power if you worried about an imbalance I guess it’s useful but Garmin connect will tell you balance as a percentage which is probably more useful than the raw numbers. It’s actually a good way of checking if something’s wrong with one of them if your pretty consistent balance wise and then you see something completely outside what your normally see something’s gone wrong. I’ve only ever had that once after a 2 hour rain stop.

Viewing 15 replies - 16 through 30 (of 200 total)