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Lighter bikes just feel
Lighter bikes just feel better. My race bikes feel way more sprightly at 16lb ish than the “winter” bike at 22lb. Its not a big proportion of the overall weight but it is noticeable.Never heard of the
Never heard of the brand.Even a cheap alloy frame should be less than 2kg. I had a steel fork on a cheap giant and that weighed 1kg on its own. A carbon fork would save a fair chunk of weight if you don’t already have one, and should be comfier too.
Have you accounted for bar tape, cables, cable stops etc etc.
If its Shimano 2300, then I’d just get some better wheels which would then be transferable to a better bike. It wouldn’t be worth putting 2300 on a better frame.
The carbon bikes I’ve had
The carbon bikes I’ve had have been less rattley over the bumps and imperfections in the road surface. However, I don’t currently have a carbon road bike, just a couple of decent alloy framed bikes. The alloy bikes seem a bit more direct which I prefer for racing.You won’t save a lot of weight on a cheap carbon frame over the decent alloy frame of your Canyon. I read in one of the magazines some comment about 1200g being light for the carbon frame on a £2k bike. All that money and they’re no lighter than a good aloy frame!
There are plenty of ways to make a bike comfier than getting carbon – tyres, seatposts, bars, bar tape etc etc.
I reckon for the same weight,
I reckon for the same weight, deep section rims will be marginally faster. I have some alloy clinchers (shallow) and also some carbon clinchers (50mm).They’re both nice wheels, one feeling better than the other could just be down to having a good day or a bad day (physically) rather than the wheel itself.
It wasn’t the wheels that resulted in me getting dropped in races last year!
I rode it on my carbon road
I rode it on my carbon road bike, kept the existing 23mm tyres on, well pumped up as usual (110 psi) and had no issues. Compact was fine. In the dry I don’t see what all the fuss about cobbles is really. They’re fun, don’t grip the bars for grim death, just keep pedalling.Loads of other peoples water bottles were going flying on the cobbled sections, and just near the end, as I thought I’d got away with losing one of mine, I looked down to see one had made a bid for freedom and I hadn’t noticed. So if you can bend your cages so they fit tightly round your bottles, all the better.
The corkscrew wasn’t all that. It was more the fact the cobbles up it were muddy and I lost grip due to this rather than “45%” being too steep to ride. Tarmac that steep would have been fine. Apparently, only a guy on a mountain bike made it up.
Yep, I did it this year with
Yep, I did it this year with a mate.Good fun, the cobbles add an element of interest – fortunately it was dry this year, I dread to think if it had been wet.
It was fairly low key, only about 200 riders, so not one of these massive sportive events. Food stops had belgian waffles, dark chocolate and other belgian themed treats.
And it was also surprisingly hilly. I was thinking Cheshire plains but I couldn’t have been more wrong.
Well worth doing!
I had the same problem. The
I had the same problem. The lettering is laser etched -I.e. basically bare aluminium.When it happened on my frame, I emailed Kinesis direct to see if they could advise how to clean it up rather than any expectation of warranty help.
However, Dom Mason sorted me out with a new frame and no need to go back through the retailer. The black and one I got was one of the first batch though.
As already posted, Dom seems to have moved on. Its a shame if Kinesis are taking a more hard line approach now he’s gone.
You’d expect warranty support if paint started flaking for no reason, and similarly, you’d expect the ano finish including the bare sections to be appropriately finished so it doesn’t corrode. It is a race bike but in my eyes that is not the same as a “summer bike”. I don’t care that it can’t take mudguards, but it should still be OK in wet weather surely? ?!
10speed 105 feels more solid
10speed 105 feels more solid and precise than 9 speed Tiagra and Sora I’ve used. However, some say the shifters are a bit draggy.11speed 105 feels lighter than 10speed but still precise and solid. If you already have decent wheels, then I’d probably go 10speed. If you were going to upgrade the wheels, then I’d go 11 speed.
I’m not sure if a 10speed chainset would work with 11speed, but I’ve mixed 8 and 9 speed stuff on the mountain bike before now.
140mm discs on road is fine
140mm discs on road is fine but I wouldn’t want to go any smaller.Disc brakes just feel nice.
Disc brakes just feel nice. No dragging cables, no sound of rims being ground away with winter muck, smooth consistent feel all the time.Having said that good calipers are fine, more so in the dry maybe though.
There’s probably a few more neutral service vehicle issues with road races than when they appeared on the mountain bike scene, but apart from that the arguments about injuries in a crash due to hot discs or some people being able to stop way quicker than others just don’t wash.
Some people have better brakes now, and some people have worse with the likes of carbon rims in the wet etc etc….
No issues here. Both 5700
No issues here. Both 5700 and 6700.How often do you need to change cables?? Surely not more than once a year?
What bit of the set up is not quite right? Gear indexing? Sticky cables? Shifting up the block? Shifting down the block?
I assume cassette and chain are still within good wear limits, and gear hanger straight.
You’d expect different brands
You’d expect different brands of power meter to be within 5 or 10% of each other surely?Trainerroad virtual power is consistent enough to be a useful training tool for mere mortals. Ditto any type of power meter. Keep tyre pressures the same, just as you would out on the road. There are so many other variables and life choices to make before worrying that your power meter might not be accurate or that there’s a small percentage variability in virtual power over an hour’s session.
I won’t care what power I’m putting out when it comes to that first race of the year. I’ll care that I can keep with the bunch, not get dropped or some other target that I can experience – not just a number.
If you don’t race, why not just trounce your riding pals on the sprint for the town border sign rather than worrying that your max power is 50Watts down on your mates 😉
I find that trainerroad gives
I find that trainerroad gives me about 50 watts less than my Stages power meter.As per previous post, doesn’t matter if its accurate, just that it’s repeatable for each system. Yes you will need to have different zones for different systems. Shouldn’t need another ramp test, just compare the readings for both systems on the same work out and adjust accordingly.
I’ve just got a Pinnacle
I’ve just got a Pinnacle Arkose 4. Not a pure CX bike but you can’t get hydraulic discs on many other drop barred bikes for £1250….
