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New headset is definitely the
New headset is definitely the right answer. Fix it properly.
Not meaning to be rude to OP,
Not meaning to be rude to OP, but seriously, do you know how to do a web search? There are many obscure things in cycle technology but etap 11v is not one of them.
You should let Welsh Boy in on the shop that’s selling it, he sounds like he knows what he’s doing.
There’s a Swedish cycle tourist who freewheeled down it at 91 km/h according to his website!Interesting read but that seemed like quite a major traffic accident he had at the end, poor bloke.
This is what I recorded on
This is the kph I recorded on Timmelsjoch, I think it was an accurate figure.
On another note, I like looking down the mountain for very long straight sections where I can try and get a speed record. My PB was coming down from Kuhtai in Austria where there is a 16% straight section coming in Greisen. I expect a better known section for very high speeds is towards the bottom of Izoard riding South where there are three villages separated by long 10% straight sections.I descended that side once, admittedly a long time ago, and the road surface on the whole of the Izoard descent was rough as hell and not at all confidence inspiring. My personal speed record was also in Austria descending the upper part of Timmelsjoch heading North. Thinner air at altitude and a long gently curving section with a good surface allowed a crazy high speed.
Coming back on topic, good brakes and a larger volume tyre are certainly no bad things when it comes to managing a descent.
Because there’s no good
Because there’s no good reason to hide the welds. A well-executed weld has a certain industrial chic, have a look at frames from German MTB brand Nikolai to see what I mean. Sanding a weld risks thinning the frame tubes and using filler can cover up poor quality welding. If you’re buying an alloy frame then you get visible welds. If you want smooth, get carbon.
Yep, it’s utterly borked. As
Yep, it’s utterly borked. As mentioned above there’s tons of discussion on the internet about this thing happening to D-A and Ultegra chainsets. These chainsets are made in two halves that are bonded (glued) together. Yours just fell to bits.
Stick with Campag cassettes,
Stick with Campag cassettes, nothing else shifts as well in a Campag drivetrain. Then it’s a straight money/weight/poshness trade-off, assuming the teeth range you want is available in multiple options. I’m fond of Potenza and Centaur myself.
Although, C64 with EPS, aren’t you contractually obliged to ride Record as a bare minimum?
Yes, you need to make sure
Yes, you need to make sure the Sram backet is the right way round. Presumably the ‘Front 160’ legened should be uppermost with a 160mm rotor. There’s a Shimano equivalent thing where the labelling is on the outside of the adapter, so if you have a 160mm rotor you should be able to read 160 on the outside.
Here it is with a 140mm rotor.
I ran a pair of Hutchinson
I ran a pair of Hutchinson Fusion 5 All Season TLR in 28mm last winter. It’s a lovely tyre, easy to fit, gave me no hassle, rolls nicely, no lack of grip, not that expensive. Not sure I’ve had a single noticeable puncture with them. Downside for you, not available in 32mm. That’s a shame as I think a 32mm version of those would be a very good tyre.
Another tyre I have loved is the Schwalbe G-One Speed. Among other sizes it’s available in 30mm. For a gravel-inclined tyre it’s remarkably quick. Good grip, works well on mixed surfaces, but does show wear quite quickly.
Oldfatgit, what a horrible
Oldfatgit, what a horrible experience.
Anyways… here’s a bike I recently put together for commuting. I bought a Kinesis Tripster AT frame when they were widely on sale earlier this year and have built it up with Shimano Metrea components done as 1×11 and some carbon bars and seatpost from China. Comes in at 9.5kg as pictured. I’m really enjoying riding it, being able to use wider tyres really does make a commute on UK’s endlessly dug up roads more pleasant.
Fulcrum have a few models
Fulcrum have a few models that could suit.
Wiggle/Prime sell their rims online too FWIW. EG: https://www.wiggle.co.uk/prime-cc-38-clincher-disc-road-rim/…and very cheap at that price.
The light bicycle rims are
The light bicycle rims are really nice. Not super cheap but very good and very up to date with design. The other companies as mentioned, also yeoleo.
That said, complete wheels with carbon rims are now available at £800 or less from the likes of just riding along. The cost saving for buying from China is not as great as it was.
Get the grip cleats, the non
Get the grip cleats, the non-grip ones aren’t joking, they’re very slippy when walking.