Forum Replies Created
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Miller
Pro One is a race tyre and
Pro One is a race tyre and too fragile for riding crappy lanes. I’ve used Hutch Sectors and they’re as tough as old boots, very reliable, but for me a slight question mark over wet grip. Schwalbe G-One Speed is fabulously comfortable and suitable for light gravel duties but as mentioned above does wear fast. I just today put on a pair of Hutch Fusion 5 11storm all weather in 28mm. They feel supple and fast, I’m hoping they’ll be durable too.
Miller
A bit of a selfish vibe in
A bit of a selfish vibe in these replies, frankly. Club rides let you meet similar-minded people, cycle further and faster, and are just generally fun to do. People would do well to drop their preconceptions and give club riding a try.
Miller
Headphone wires are maddening
Headphone wires are maddening when on rollers, I’ve recently switched to Enacfire wireless earbuds. They lack a bit of bass but the wirefree aspect is great.
Miller
Tubeless can take low
Tubeless can take low pressures easily. As I have found on a few occasions when I’ve discovered there has been an air leak and pressure is much lower than I thought.
Fwiw, on my road bike with 25mm IRC tubeless I’m running about 70psi, and the bike with the G-One Speeds which are nominally 30mm, 50 – 60 psi.
Miller
I’m a fan of the original
I’m a fan of the original Schwalbe One (non Pro). It was a heavier tyre but it rolled well and was robust. Nowadays I have Pro One 25 on the back of my TT bike, as it is fast, but I’m not convinced it’s an everyday tyre.
My this year’s favourite is Schwalbe G-One Speed (previously S-One) in 30mm. On a 26mm rim it inflates out to only 29mm. I’ve found it very fast and quite robust, I’ve done some mixed terrain rides on it successfully. It shows wear quickly and it’s not invulnerable but it’s only stopped me at the roadside once when I clattered into a pothole and put a cut in the sidewall. Then again, it was easy to swap in a tube to get home as the bead is not horrifically tight.
Miller
I had a pair of Sector 28s
I had a pair of Sector 28s and they absolutely would not wear out, the buggers, had to sell a bike to get ride of them. But I did put a question mark beside their wet grip after I got dumped on the road on a LH bend three years ago. It was October, the road was damp, who knows whether another tyre would have kept me upright.
This site has given very positive reviews to the Hutch Fusion 5.
https://road.cc/content/review/230757-hutchinson-fusion-5-elevenstorm-tubeless-performance-road-tyre
Miller
Same for me, ran carbon rims
Same for me, ran carbon rims last winter but – spoiler alert – discs again. That said, the issue won’t necessarily be brake track wear, it’s more likely to be the hub bearings getting a hard time through repeated exposure to muddy, salty water.
The suggestion of bunging on some cheap alloy wheels is a good one.
Miller
For cable disk brakes you
For cable disk brakes you need compressionless brake casing. These casings are not spiral wound but have longitudinal wires, like gear cables, and a tough outer layer. If your bike is not cabled up with that stuff, then it would be worth swapping in new brake casings. Jagwire do a good compressionless brake cable, TRP do Disc Connect, there are some others also.
September 17, 2018 at 12:06 pm in reply to: Recommend Fast &Comfortable 28mm-32mm Road Tyre for Hardpack? #927079
Miller
I’ve ridden with Sector 28s
I’ve ridden with Sector 28s and now with G-One Speeds 30mm, both tubeless. They’re both great tyres.
Sector is as tough as old boots, was my experience, with maybe a question mark against wet grip. Very long lasting, I had to sell the bike they were on to get rid of them (lol).
The G-One Speed is flat-out fast and very comfortable. I’ve ridden events like the P-R inspired Tour of the Black Country on them, those events have 10 – 30km of unmade road, and the G-Ones were fine. They’re not invulnerable however and the fine tread soon shows signs of wear.
Miller
Yorkshire wallet wrote:Let’s face it, nobody is every going to get nicked for using an ‘illegal’ e-bike unless they are being blatantly stupid about it (e.g. doing 30mph without pedalling or having a 9000w one that does 50mph)Wasn’t there a news story just a few days ago about that exact scenario, someone who had grafted a 4kw motor onto a bike and was caught doing 80mph?
March 31, 2018 at 10:37 am in reply to: Tubeless tire pops off the rim after inflation (sans valve core) #915825
Miller
If you have trouble getting
If you have trouble getting the tyre to seat it’s always worth trying another layer of tape.
Miller
kvert wrote:But, I ordered the road bike anyway (Canyon ENDURACE CF SL DISC 8.0 DI2) and it actually should be arriving within a few hours.Yay. Doesn’t matter what the question was, that’s the right answer, lol.
Miller
There are some restrictions
There are some restrictions on mixing matching various Campag components. The below was written by a knowledgeable person and is lifted from another forum.
SR & RE EPS – works with all 11s cranksets, best with cranksets post 2012
ATH & CH EPS – as above
SR, RE, CH pre 2015 need pre 2015 RDs, levers, FDs all matched, then works with all 11s cranksets, cassettes, chain
SR, RE, CH Post 2015 needs post 2015 RDs, levers, FDs all matched, then works with all 11s cranksets, cassettes, chains
ATH UltraShift will work with ATH UltraShift RDs (specifically), CH, RE, SR pre 2015, then works with all 11s cranksets, cassettes, chains
ATH PowerShift will work with Ath PowerShift RDs (specifically), then works with all 11s cranksets, cassettes, chains
Match Potenza to Potenza, no year differences except pre-2018 LH shifter body needs changing to match HO cranks if used, then works with all cassettes, chains
Match Centaur 11 to Centaur 11, then works with all 11s cranksets, cassettes, chains
Miller
Can you get some test rides
Can you get some test rides on road bikes so your thinking isn’t all theoretical? You might just love the road bike experience.
Miller
Don’t worry about gearing
Don’t worry about gearing efficiency, drivetrain losses are not significant with derailleur gears assuming they’re not faulty or gunged up. Stop thinking about direct, indirect, whatever.
What does count is having the range of gears you need. Your proposed 52/36 11/30 setup would work fine although 52-11 is a very tall gear more suited to racing than normal riding around. I’d prefer a 50-34 up front but it’s not a big deal.
Di2, or EPS as I prefer to call it, might be a luxury but you’ll absolutely love it.
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