Forum Replies Created
-
Replies
-
That frame is absolute toast.
That frame is absolute toast. Even if you had it expensively repaired, who knows what other part is waiting to fail ? As the frame is so old it won’t conform to current parts standards so you’re probably looking at a whole new bike, realistically, but would that be a disaster?
Because Winter also means
Because Winter also means more clothes with more aero drag, cold muscles, cold dense air, heavier bike and less fitness. It does make a difference!
E-shifting means keeping an
E-shifting means keeping an eye on battery charge levels. I am not saying that is difficult. Just that if you leave a cableshift bike alone for six months the shifting will probably still work whereas a battery may have gone flat. That is the entirety of my point.
I am genuinely intrigued at what Miller perceives as being a major negative maintenance issue over cable gears. It may be a SRAM thing???I just dropped in to see what condition my perception was in… and your perception of my perception is incorrect. As I said, I am fine with routine maintenance.
I love e-shifting and
I love e-shifting and tubeless but both require routine maintenance in a way that previous cycling tech did not. I’m fine with that and can deal with the technicalities but many other people can not. It’s best to know what you’re getting into.
Or just don’t wrap the bars
Or just don’t wrap the bars at all, at first. Position the levers where you think they should be then go for a ride round the block to fine tune position. Wrap afterwards.
To answer the original question I don’t think bars being flared affects lever position in any particular way.
Latest news is that google is
Latest news is that google is soon discontinuing the ability to upload photo paths.
Google generally doesn’t
Google generally doesn’t provide Street view imagery for non-drivable routes although there are many exceptions to that. It is possible for anyone with a 360 video camera to upload their own imagery via Street View Studio. I’ve done it for a few off-road sectors near where I live although not with anything like the quality of official imagery. When in GSV if you look top left on the page you can see who did the images, usually Google but sometimes a third party.
If the wheel m/f says max
If the wheel m/f says max pressure 6 bar, I’d respect that. As for tyres, run them at any pressure you like. There are many good remarks here giving pointers. The tyre sidewall legend shows a range, not a specific pressure, so not really that much help.
Couple of years back I bought
Couple of years back I bought a cheap version, Wiggle’s LifeLine X-Tools Spoke Tension meter, and it’s been very beneficial for my occasional wheel building. My main discovery was something that I had already suspected, that I wasn’t putting on enough tension. Winding 120kgf onto a driveside spoke takes quite some finger strength but it needs to be done. Modern carbon rims are rated for that sort of tension.
No recommendation then but I do think they are a worthwhile tool.
I’ve bought a few things
I’ve bought a few things direct from China from companies such as Farsports, Tantan and Nextie. They can always arrange shipping. In terms of customer service, the tone is very much ‘you can have what you want’.
For carbon wheels I think it’s true that their formerly huge price advantage has been eroded in recent years by the rise of brands such as Hunt etc who have formalised the process of buying from China. However for framesets there are still huge savings available as the price of branded framesets has gone nuts in recent years.
Sportives on open roads are the domain of the wobblers, huffing and puffing whilst thinking how pro they look who lack the minerals to pin a race number on.Well… that’s nonsense and also the kind of snotty attitude that helps no-one. If by pinning a number on you mean road racing, that’s a fairly inaccessible form of cycle sport. Unless you’re already skinny and fit you’re almost certain to be dumped out the back of the pack in short order. Add to that a decent chance of a painful crash.
Sportives encourage people to take on a longer and harder ride than they normally would, show them some roads they might not know about, and provide a sense of occasion. If that means they attract unstylish novice cyclists, so be it.
Again, I think they’re all
Again, I think they’re all pretty good these days, but anyway, you can’t really go wrong with Conti 5k TL. It’s not like they’re way better than anything else, they aren’t, just that they seem to work well for most people. What I’ve used: GP5kTL, fast and durable, not the most compliant; Schwalbe Pro One, fast and nice road feel; Hutch Fusion 5 All Season, not quite the fastest but has seemed entirely unaffected by winter roads; Goodyear F1 Eagle All Season, indestructible, holds air really well; Bontrager R3 Lite, comfy, durable, doesn’t hold air well. None of them has given me much hassle with punctures, that’s not really something I worry about nowadays.
Your 25mm limit is tight but I have an oldish BMC which takes 25mm max and currently that runs the Schwalbes in 25mm, not that I’m using it outside at this crappy time of year.
What do you actually need to
What do you actually need to know? There are tons of great tubeless tyres these days. If you do decide to go that route then get as wide a tyre as your bike will take, probably 28s, and don’t inflate them to massive pressure, I’d say 80psi at the very most for 28mm. Tubeless is very tolerant of lower pressure.
Read up on the installation process, a good tape job is key, and it should all go smoothly.
I would agree that tyre
I would agree that tyre quality has increased generally. I’ve been using tubeless for a while so my own experience of flats has dropped away dramatically but many people still haven’t, nevertheless clubruns seem to have fewer flats than say 10 or 15 years ago. I remember some maddening club rides back then. Also good tip about thru axles. They’re as keen to seize in place as any other bike component which is ignored for a while.