Forum Replies Created
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Be sure to take plenty of
Be sure to take plenty of puncture repair stuff and you’ll be fine and have a great time. Maybe pop a note back here afterwards to tell everyone how you got on.
Do you have a good handle on
Do you have a good handle on the quality of roads you’ll be riding on? I wonder if a full-on race bike is the best choice of machine. I may be displaying my ignorance here but I wouldn’t be expecting continuous asphalt in those regions. I’d be looking at a gravel bike, myself.
I wouldn’t worry about disk brake maintenance, once set up they’re very reliable.
Yay. I do like a happy ending
Yay. I do like a happy ending.
Scoob_84, neither of the
Scoob_84, neither of the cable kits you link to are compressionless. However, these two are:
https://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/trp-disc-brake-cableset-compression-less/
Jagwire Road Pro – Road Bike Full Brake Cable Set
My recommendation would be to go with the TRP kit, I have installled one recently and it’s very good.
For cutting the outer, yes you need a decent cable cutter. If you can put an old piece of brake inner through the outer at the point where you’re cutting, you’ll avoid crushing the outer flat.
Mikethebike, you might think that ‘posh’ cable is only a little better but I can assure you that when it comes to cable discs, the difference in performance between conventional outer and compressionless outer is night and day.
Contraband is correct,
Contraband is correct, standard brake cable is poor for mech discs, you need compressionless. Jag wire do one, there’s TRP disc connect, one or two others. Don’t ignore this advice! You’ll need to web search for the correct disc pad, there are loads of variants.
timtak wrote:
I have wondered similarly about tubed tires. I get a flat. I take out the piece of glass, patch the tube, put it back on the wheel, but I am still left with a hole in my tyre.This only matters if the hole is big enough to let the inner tube bulge through. If it does not, forget about it. Normal wear and tear.
If the tyres are holding air
If the tyres are holding air at the requisite pressure, just keep riding.
This is what I think was
This is what I think was called a Dynatech 500 or 700 at the time, 1989/1990. I remember this well because I had a Dynatech frame. Raleigh Special Products was the high-end part of Raleigh when Raleigh was still a going concern. Their Dynatech frames made a bit of a splash when they were released, I still have a glossy brochure somewhere.
The frames were constructed with various tubings glued into alloy lugs. The tubing here is likely to be 501 cromoly steel. My two frames suffered with the pinned and glued joint of seatstays to seat cluster becoming loose. But if this frame is still sound after all these years that may not be a concern. Shimano 500EX was a low-end but decent group, the Tiagra of its day.
However: quill stem, downtube shifter, narrow rear spacing, thin handlebars – there’s a lot of old tech on display. £50 if it’s all working ok is fair enough and I’m sure that front mech only needs tweaking. But I don’t think it’s worth ‘upgrading’ this to make it into something it isn’t. Bikes have moved on in so many ways that you might be better served spending £300 at Decathlon or wherever if you want something modern. Otherwise enjoy it for what it is. Cyclists managed with downtube shifters for decades after all, you’ll soon get used to it.
Is this really a problem? A
Is this really a problem? A bit of bearing seal drag doesn’t matter.
If you’re set on replacing the hubs then yes you need hubs with the same spoke count. As the comment above notes, you are very likely to need new spokes too as the required spoke lengths will be different if the dimensions of the hub are different.
Are you thinking of doing this yourself?
> The cabling is particularly
> The cabling is particularly egregious; it can’t be stretched by now; it is like they can’t index
> the gears incase they jab their little fingers.If I was a shop mechanic sighing at the sight of another transmission bristling with frayed cables, and the frayed ends are pretty painful if you get a jab, I’d be holding out for new cables too.
>. I am sure the bike will be smashing if I pay for all this.
Yes it will. Just pay the money then go riding. Maybe look at keeping the bike tidier too, no-one on the clubrun will enjoy the sight of your bartape flapping in the breeze, lol.
I would just warn you on this one, if you use a traditional puncture patch you risk a blow out as the typical puncture patch stretches and can bulge.Is a fair point but I’ve only done this for slits which are big enough to defeat sealant but not so big as to damage the integrity of the tyre. The repairs I’ve made like this have held up nicely.
I did try once repairing a bigger cut in a tubeless with a piece of Veloflex tyre carcass but it was never a satisfactory repair. I will say that leaking sealant can make roller riding a dodgy affair!
For a cut in the tyre that’s
For a cut in the tyre that’s too much for the sealant I’ve had good results using conventional puncture patches on the inside of the tyre. You need to clean the inside tyre surface so that the rubber solution will bind to it. You’ll be good to go when you reinflate.
For a tyre that won’t seat, either build up the tape with another layer or completely retape. My new thing is trying Gorilla tape. You’ll probably need to adjust the width but my first impression is that it does work very well as tubeless tape at about a quarter of the cost of Stan’s or equivalent (just why is that yellow tape so expensive anyway).
The crossing was at around
The crossing was at around 70km on last year’s route, dunno if it’s any different this year.
Don’t get your feet and shoes wet is my advice. And forget the drop bag thing, I’m not sure it worked well last year, just take what you need in a small rucksack.
I’ve done a few UK so-called
I’ve done a few UK so-called gravel events and they have all featured grotty sectors of mud. The Schwalbe G-Ones are great if they can grip something hard like gravel but the tread gets swamped by mud. I tried a pair of X-Ones in an event recently and they were a revelation, you’ll still be going sideways on both wheels in mud but there are signs of something resembling grip. Not too slow on tarmac neither.
For the river crossing a
For the river crossing a sensible approach is to take shoes and socks off then paddle through (ouch ouch ouch) barefoot. It’s fairly deep and with another 120km to go you don’t want wet feet.