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If you’re on a Kurt Kinetic,
If you’re on a Kurt Kinetic, then they have some different sized ‘traxles’ to fit various bikes..

https://kurtkinetic.com/products/kinetic-traxle/

..may be of some use on others (possibly not Tacx, but Flying Scot has that covered).

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abudhabiChris

abudhabiChris wrote:

fukawitribe gets the prize though. If a bike is simply a two wheeled vehicle then I could stick anything on like, say a 500cc motor. Yes it’s a bike, a motorbike, but I think you’d raise a few eyebrows at the start line for Paris-Nice. Do you think in the UCI rules and regulations there isn’t a prohibition against motorised vehicles. If there isn’t then I’ll enter the Tour this year.

It is implicit that it is not motorised as opposed to, say a motorised bicycle or “motorbike” as they’re known, but my main point is that there is nothing in the definition of ‘bicycle’ that prevents some type of assistance with it’s operation (note, that is in general different to assistance in propulsion beyond some type of mechanical advantage) – which is what you proposed.

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DaSy wrote:I understand the

DaSy wrote:

I understand the necessity to change under heavy load at times, but don’t think it should be thought of as a normal thing to do

..completely agree.

DaSy wrote:

I can’t imagine ever knowing a road so well that I knew in advance what gear to be in.

Seriously ?

DaSy wrote:

I tend to change as required, I just do it before I get myself into the situation where it’s under heavy load

As I said, not always possible short of some sort of prescience super-power but I get your gist.

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abudhabiChris wrote:A bike is

abudhabiChris wrote:

A bike is a human powered vehicle. Once you use external power to assist part of the drive train of the bike it is no longer completely human powered.

You’ve made that up – a bicycle is two wheeled vehicle by definition, nothing more.

abudhabiChris wrote:

Anyone riding electronic gears is no longer riding a bike. Go ahead, it’s your choice, but when I look at someone riding EPS or Di2 I see a cheat.

😀 I presume you don’t use ‘cheat’ in the sense of ‘avoid using luck or skill’. As you say, it’s a choice and imposing your own definition of ‘bike’ doesn’t make it inherently a good or bad one. Why not enjoy what you want, and let others do the same.

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DaSy wrote:The argument that

DaSy wrote:

The argument that it changes easier under load uphill seems to run counter to all the wisdom that I was taught as a novice rider, that you never change gear under heavy load, get your gear selection right at the start of the hill, and always take the load off as you change, should you have to.
The fact that electronic shifting is isolating you from how much effort it is taking to drag the chain across rings and sprockets, does not mean that it is not doing the same damage to your drive-train that it does to a mechanical group. It’s bad form in my opinion.

While it might be bad form, the argument about whether it does change better under load (of any sort) is a separate one to whether one should be doing that. There is also the point that whilst I imagine most people would prefer not to do that, in practice things don’t always work out that way – certainly i’ve been caught out be gradients that change suddenly and are not apparent / visible, had wheel slip, chain jump (my fault) and so on… it’s just not always possible to Do The Right Thing. If you’re just riding on well-known roads then I can see the point, but where is the fun in that ? 😉

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ianrobo wrote:miles better

ianrobo wrote:

miles better this morning

Aye, much faster. For as long as I can remember it’s been in the order of 10-15s per page refresh when logged in, it’s seems in the 1-3s range today. Not snappy but eminently usable. Huzzah whoever has tweaked that.

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NOC40 wrote:i think the intro

NOC40 wrote:

i think the intro text misses a big point: aren’t electronic shifters still heavier than mechanical? that’s not an issue if your bike is under the UCI limit (i.e. you’re a pro, and you have to make the bike heavier somehow) but is an issue for all non-pros.

As pointed out, the difference in the groupset weight is marginal and, even if noticeable (i’d like to see someone try and test that), should be balanced against the benefits – e.g. shift quality under load, self-trimming, lack of cable maintenance. You pay for that, and there is an increased complexity, but that’s your choice.

On the electronic groupo, some parts will be heavier (e.g. front mech), some lighter (e.g. shifters, since you mention them, significantly so on Shimano Di2) and some only exist on one or the other (e.g. battery, control box). If you’re that worried about it though, you’re probably missing the point and might want to stick with mechanical as you’ll save a decent chunk of money and can imagine you’re much faster without hauling all that extra mass around.

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torquerulesok wrote:Then buy

torquerulesok wrote:

Then buy a pair of Enve 25 tub wheels with CK45 hubs and Conti Comps. True all-in weight with three layers of glue is 1430g. No flats in over 2,000 miles with sublime handling.

Plan B (if tubs are too scary): buy some Boras.

Have you any idea how many Trek Madone 2.1s you can buy for the same price as either of those suggestions ? 🙂

For the OP, I vaguely remember weighing mine before I swapped them out and I *think* it was about 1.9kg with tape.

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Mombee wrote:Hmmmm… might not

Mombee wrote:

Hmmmm… might not just be the Home Page, that last post took forever to load :-(

The historical slowness has been on every page (as far I can tell) although that’s not to say it’s not got worse recently

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During a similar discussion a
During a similar discussion a while ago, some wise soul pointed out to me that it was related to being signed in. Log out and it all works ‘normally’. It’s a real pain in the arse but i’m not holding my breath about it being fixed – it surely can’t be _that_ difficult to profile the connection in-house and see where the bottleneck is…

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DaveE128 wrote:If you have to

DaveE128 wrote:

If you have to stop (at a junction, wait for a slower friend, etc) and put your foot down in any sandy dirt (eg as found all over the roads in the New Forest at times), it seems to kill the plastic cleats instantly and they’ll never work again no matter how much you try to clean them.

There’s a lot to be said for SPDs but this is, in general, nonsense.

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Just my tuppence worth….
I
Just my tuppence worth….

I sent back my Elite Crono Fluid Elastogel mainly because of the way the tyre is pressed against the roller – it basically means that you unweight the rear tyre to some degree unless particularly precise and gentle getting out of the saddle or giving it beans when up there (which according to their documentation at the time may void the warranty). Propping the front wheel up in the air a bit more than necessary helps but that’s not really a satisfactory solution. I sadly had to decide against a Bkool for the same reason.

If you just going to stay in the saddle then that might not be an issue and the resistance unit on the Elite was rather good I thought – quiet, smooth and with a grippy roller – it was also quick and easy to setup. There were other issues however.

I replaced it with a second-hand KK Road Machine (old style, same resistance unit) and have been very happy with it over the last 2 and a bit years. Pretty quiet, built like a tank, stable and very, very good ‘feel’. Takes a little bit longer to set-up than the Elite but the difference is neglible (takes less than a minute excluding any wheel swap i’m doing).

Now running with an InRide attached to it, which it to give a pretty accurate power reading as well if you want that option and if you’re buying the trainer from new you get the lifetime guarantee of course. Personally, i’d recommend them in a heartbeat.

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ChrisFilter wrote:What, that

ChrisFilter wrote:

What, that Assos are the best or that dhb are as good as anything else?

Assos are amongst the best from what i’ve heard, calling any piece of clothing, let alone their entire range of something, the best is probably a step too far. dhb also do some decent stuff, I have a bunch, at some very competitive prices but comparing comfort levels, build quality and other performance metrics of the pieces I have against similar item types from Castelli, Sportful, Pactimo, even Giordana and others would suggest to me that they are far from being ‘as good as anything else’.

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5-O wrote:10 degrees. This
[quote=5-O]10 degrees. This site still has the specs: http://www.togoparts.com/items/view_item.php?iid=19734%5B/quote%5D

Nice find.

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As a guesstimate – print out,
As a guesstimate – print out, draw a line from the middle of bar clamp to the (vertical and horizontal) centre of the steerer clamp, draw another along the flat bit of the bottom of steer clamp and bung a protractor on the bit where they meet. AFAIK the smaller angle S-Works stems were 4 or 6 degrees (two different types) so the nearest to either one of those is probably about right. My moneys still on 6 I reckon.

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