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fukawitribe
mrfree wrote:Until the
mrfree wrote:Until the government proportionally respects the wishes of cyclists against that of motor vehicles, and supplies proper infrastructure, I will not obey their one-sided laws.Liberty.
Stupidity.
fukawitribe
archie gordon wrote:me to,
archie gordon wrote:me to, tried it out on my old steel bike and its solid a bargain at 30 quid+1 Good looking quality for the money, nice and rigid, packs up small – feels pretty good. Only time will tell on durability (but 3 year guarantee anyway) but i’m genuinely and pleasantly surprised.
fukawitribe
Colin Peyresourde wrote:If
Colin Peyresourde wrote:If you are talking about insults I was just returning Mooleur’s.So someone calls ‘face palm’ on your analysis and you respond with ‘bigotted’ and ‘douche’. Well done big man, way to win an argument.
fukawitribe
Simon E wrote:Shimano Ultegra
Simon E wrote:Shimano Ultegra are a safe bet and excellent value, £250 at Merlin just now. RS61s are even cheaper. Both are 11 speed compatible and tubeless-ready.By some strange co-incidence I have some new (ex-display) RS61s available for a very reasonable amount…
Simon E wrote:If you have £350 to spend have you considered handbuilt? Wheelsmith, Strada et al. Cycle Clinic (http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk/) are offering H Plus Son Archtype Miche Primato hubs for £275.^^ This, if you’re going to be spending near your budget.. or at least, if I had the cash, this is what i’d do.
fukawitribe
If it’s comfort with
If it’s comfort with reasonable weight you’re looking for – i’d keep an eye out for Bontrager Race TLR. They are comparable weight to the ones listed but have the advantage of wider rims – you’re going to get quite a bit higher volume on your existing tyres on them with them, with the associated extra comfort. You can also run them tubeless later on if the fancy takes you (might be a idea for lots of miles comfortably with extra protection). They are typically a lot cheaper than most of the wheelsets mentioned and come up regularly in new condition on eBay.If you’re considering the Braccianos, i’d also recommend checking out the Planet X clinchers (AL30 etc) as there isn’t a massive difference between the two apart from price. Agree with Jack Osbourne about the tyres – i’ve heard some very good things about the Michelin Pro4 Service Course in 25c, nice light and grippy and come up very big on the wheel (26-28mm depending on rim).
fukawitribe
Gizmo_ wrote:Isn’t it just as
Gizmo_ wrote:Isn’t it just as easy to buy a roll of this http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00CI6EE7E/ and cover the bike in it?Alas, according to the reviews on there, no.
February 6, 2014 at 8:53 am in reply to: 23 or 25mm Clinchers to race and train? Which clinchers to choose? #749061
fukawitribe
levermonkey wrote:Sorry. I
levermonkey wrote:Sorry. I didn’t make that clear.Reduce pressure by 25psi OR 30psi depending on conditions. Even reduced by 30psi I’ve still got 140psi in the tyre.
In my defence I was a bit rushed and didn’t proof read before submitting.
Blimey, you might want to look at those pressures – apart from a lack of comfort, they are way over the max pressures for the tyres. GP4000 is listed as 125PSI max and the GP4000s 120 PSI, unless i’m reading that wrong.
If you’re using them on the boards then I could understand the high pressure a little more, but then again you wouldn’t be using 25mm GP4000’s there. Can I ask what sort of riding you do that makes it worth the risk and ride quality ?
January 30, 2014 at 10:57 pm in reply to: Canyon Ultimate CF SL 9.0 Team vs Rose Xeon CRS 5000 #771291
fukawitribe
hill4544 wrote:It’s a direct
hill4544 wrote:It’s a direct replacement for my old shape Canyon Ultimate CF with full Athena and Campy Zonda wheels, which has been a superb bike. And yes Jez, both Canyons have the VCLS seat post. I’m hoping the new one will be on another level. I’ve also got a Rose Xeon CW which is also a superb bike, hence my deliberation over Rose/CanyonAhhhh – I see your dilemma… probably the best thing to do is to lend me some of your stable for a few months and we could compare notes about the relative merits of them over a pint or two towards the end of autumn. I’ll even get the first round in 🙂
January 24, 2014 at 2:59 pm in reply to: Tyre system investment strategy advice sought: Tubeless vs. Clincher? #769565
fukawitribe
GerardR wrote:I had
GerardR wrote:I had Hutchinson Fusions on my Ultegra wheels and found them very difficult to get on and to get inflated (LBS had the same issue when I finally got them to do it).I found them a complete bastard to get on, as did the last person I spoke to who used them. After that rather hideous first experience, I got myself a bead jack (Kool-Stop) – makes a world of difference.
January 23, 2014 at 1:03 pm in reply to: Tyre system investment strategy advice sought: Tubeless vs. Clincher? #769557
fukawitribe
abudhabiChris wrote:Reasons
abudhabiChris wrote:Reasons not to go tubeless:Poor choice of tyres –
True – and they’re pricey.
abudhabiChris wrote:haven’t tried the Hutchinson Sector but their tubeless road tyres Atom and Fusion are rubbish.The Fusions i’m running seen fine, the Secteur gets very good reviews as do the Schwalbe One and Ultremo ZX (including an interesting chat with someone using them all over the end of last year including over the Pyrennes). Limited choice, but some nice choices none the less.
abudhabiChris wrote:
You still have to carry a tube because quite often the sealant doesn’t fill the hole.…and…. ?
abudhabiChris wrote:
Trying to get a tube in to a tyre when the hole hasn’t sealed properly makes you look like you’ve just been the guest of honour at a rubber bukkake party. if you have an aversion to roadside faffing in the cold/dark under the stares of a grumpy peloton then this will take it to new levels.Now that I *can* imagine….
abudhabiChris wrote:The sealant has to be cleaned out and renewed occasionally or it gums up inside your rims. This is a major pain in the arse.Perhaps it can be, not tried many types of sealant – had no hassle getting it out myself so far though….
abudhabiChris wrote:
It isn’t that much lighter once you factor in the weight of the sealant, and the fact that you still have to carry all the spare equipment.…and… ?
abudhabiChris wrote:
The ride quality is slightly better – about the same as riding open tubulars with latex tubes. But unless you are on a very high-performance bike I doubt you could really notice it, certainly not in a blind test.Be interesting to try out – the ride on my Fusion 23s is not really noticeably better than the Vredesteins Fortezza Tricomps (with bog standard tubes) they replaced – mind you i’m running them at not totally dis-similar pressures (maybe 85psi vs 90-and-a-bit)
abudhabiChris wrote:Reasons to go tubeless:You don’t get pinch flats.
Stop trolling – they’re much better at reducing a range of flats vs standard (non-sealant) tubes and tyres. For me, i’ve had two ‘confirmed’ seals in the last 3 months which i’ll take even with the lack of choice and higher price. YMMV
abudhabiChris wrote:Your choice…Yep – best to give a realistic set of reasons for and against though.
fukawitribe
JediNeo wrote:Sufferfest for
JediNeo wrote:Sufferfest for me too. I can occasionally ride the rollers with just music in my ears, but the Sufferfest gives you a much more satisfying ride :)10% off videos,gift certificates and training plans at the moment (Black Friday sale) – use code SUFGIVING in the coupon box.
fukawitribe
ajmarshal1 wrote:Sufferfest,
ajmarshal1 wrote:Sufferfest, no question. Once you start on those videos you’ll never go back to anything else.Second this – especially coupled with TrainerRoad (or something similar with either power metering or some sort of power estimate) so you can’t kid yourself about the effort.
fukawitribe
earbyphil wrote:Many thanks
earbyphil wrote:Many thanks for your suggestions. I should have pointed out it is a carbon seatpost AND a carbon frame.
Any further ideas?Have you tried compressing the seat stem, like the carbon specific recipe in the Sheldon Brown article Matt eaton pointed at ?
http://sheldonbrown.com/stuck-seatposts.html#carbon
That would seem to have a lot of sensible physics behind it – i’d also be tempted to try and rotate the seat post just after compressing to try and break any static bond.
fukawitribe
Had mine 2 weeks ago
Had mine 2 weeks ago tomorrow, tried to get on with doing things after a couple of days or so but it just ended up causing more pain and discomfort after a week – feet up for an extra day sorted that. For me, lesson learned and i’m getting back on the bike only now – I feel it’s just not worth the risk of screwing things up again for the sake of a few days. Part of this, i’m sure, is because i’m not exactly in the first flush of youth (I guess few will be for this op) so stuff doesn’t heal as fast as it used… hugely bored too, but it’s not too long to wait.YMMV
November 1, 2013 at 7:35 pm in reply to: All year round, fast commuting Alu Frame under £600 #761659
fukawitribe
Worth considering a Trek
Worth considering a Trek Domane 2 series frame, if you can find one – extremely comfortable over crap roads, relaxed geometry, good tyre clearance, mud-guard and rack mounts and lifetime guarantee.Just me tuppence worth.
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