Forum Replies Created
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Replies
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Been using the dura disc
Been using the dura disc nearly everyday for a year. Had a free hub die. They sent a new one and had offered to pick up and sort for me. I have ran pro ones and sector 28s on them.
Nothing but good things to say really. I have been around 90kgs and they have been bomb proof.
Also so have the carbon 50mm lovely wheels but not used as extensively.
I agree really, it’s s bit of
I agree really, it’s s bit of a faff initially, but especially something like Hutchinson sector 28s they are bombproof. Even running schalwbe pro ones for a year on my commuter/winter bike I had to put a tube in once on the road.
And once more when I went off roading and killed the tyre, got to work booted the tyre at lunch and cycled 30 miles home.
“Got ground down by a few mm”Its probably fine buddy, just scratches to the end cap. If the wheel spins freely and securely then it’s fine.
yep I’ve a few that have been “trimmed”
they are ok!
Applied every time still not
Applied every time still not made the cut.
£116!
£116!
Eh up Broken, from a fellow ex infanteer! 😉Under geared means that you are spinning out when in your top gear, I.e. you are in your 50/11 and are bouncing in the saddle at something 120rpm cadence!
If you ride predominantly flat lands with small undulations you will undoubtedly remain more in the big ring if you are that fit. I do too. Trying to use the small ring more just for the sake of it begs the question why?
Your gear combinations are there to help you keep your preferential (ideally most efficient) cadence when the gradient changes. So, on predominantly flat rides I wouldn’t expect to use my inner ring much (and indeed I don’t, I can do 100 miles on the Cheshire Plain and not select the 36 ring at all). This is not an issue though.
Having said that, when I go into the Peak District I will use the 36 significantly more, and the 52 on the down hills.
If you find you are wearing out the big ring, then so be it, just replace it when it is worn. I would suggest that riding on the flats on a ‘bigger’ small ring up front just so you use it more would potentially wear that ring out faster (less teeth spreading the load).
It really is more about not cross chaining if you can avoid it. If you find your current combination has you in the 50 ring all the time, but up on the biggest cog on your cassette I would suggest you should have dropped to the inner ring and down the block to get a similar ratio instead.
I accept that I wear out my 52 ring more quickly than my 36 because I spend a much higher proportion of most rides on that ring. I very rarely have to change inner chainrings as they just don’t get the same amount of use, or power being put through them – I can push hard on the flats on the big ring for hours like you, but tend to try to twiddle more on the 36 and bottom gear when climbing the steep stuff, only rarely putting max power down and honking on the bars to get up a 25% ramp…
So I personally can’t understand the logic of changing chainset/ rings just to use the inner one more…
All the best
PP
it seems pointless having it and not using, but will probably change when it’s worn. I did Buxton to peniston and back over the peaks and the strines on a 53/39 25-11 a couple of years ago bugger me that was a challenge. So using that as a benchmark something a little easier would probably suit me a little better allowing me a bit more spinning on big slopes. I think either a mid compact with a 28 at the back would be a versatile combination with a 11-25 in the tool box for flatter rides.
Looking forward to getting up the peaks again this year. Just have to sort this bloody injury out!
its a possibility, but will
its a possibility, but will change my chain ring when i wear out the pressfit BB and swap to an adapter and 24mm set up. So a cassette change is the cheap option. I managed 27.2kph for 9719km last year!
its horses for courses though. I weigh 88-90 kilos and can spend all day on Dartmoor on 50/34 and 11 – 28. I live in Hampshire and I find myself under geared around Hampshire most the time and may switch to a mid compact as I tend not to use my 34 unless it’s really steep. Although the cheap option is drop 5 kilos and stick an 11-25 on.Still need to drop 5 kilos whatever!
You find yourself under geared with a biggest gear of 50/11? At 100rpm cadence that would be nearly 36mph. So you are going to switch to a 52/36?
I reckon you you should learn to spin at a higher cadence, or alternatively turn pro if you can average 36mph around Hampshire!!! 😉
PP
I hardly ever feel the need to use my small ring and spin quite well thanks. Knees are buggered after years in the Royal Marines, which is why i was invalided out.
I can hold 300 watts for over half an hour. I just figured having cogs I use all the time was preferential to using some.
If over geared is grinding away beacause your gears are too big and i’m spinning too much in my small ring and therefore not using it, surely i am undergeared?
If i had a larger small ring, I would actually use it.
I currently have a buggered achillies and still commute on my bike. I just pootle in the small ring and that still feels too easy even with my injury?
btw i always tend to stay around 90rpm and try and keep cadence fairly high on hills too.
Please explain where I’m going wrong!
i’m not talking about top end speed but effective use (for me) of the small ring and cassette.
CXR94Di2 wrote:
If you weigh between 60-80kg then if you’re reasonably fit should be able to get about on a compact 50/34 11-32 Cass. If you weigh more then easier gearing for hills will be needed. I have built a mountain touring bike using 40/28 XT crankset. I generally use an 11-32 for general riding and 11-40 for mountain climbing. I’ve changed the the outer chainring for a 44t. This will give a top speed of 32mph at 110rpm on slight declines anything more and I can let my weight accelerate me upto 50mph. MTB gearing will be fine for most riders, you really don’t need 53,50,48 for most riders, except for young racing type. It’s only convention to follow the professional riders with the same but average Jo really doesn’tits horses for courses though. I weigh 88-90 kilos and can spend all day on Dartmoor on 50/34 and 11 – 28. I live in Hampshire and I find myself under geared around Hampshire most the time and may switch to a mid compact as I tend not to use my 34 unless it’s really steep. Although the cheap option is drop 5 kilos and stick an 11-25 on.
Still need to drop 5 kilos whatever!
I was out for 50 odd miles
I was out for 50 odd miles around the South Downs at 0620hrs. Some ice but not much. A bit chilly and windy.
And a 12 year old girl hit
And a 12 year old girl hit today too.
http://www.dailyecho.co.uk/news/15780463.12_year_old_girl_rushed_to_hospital_after_collision/
Buy a military grade
Buy a military grade respirator and a box of filters. Exercising in them is horrible as the seal is so good. A bonus as it will feel like altitude training.
Winter bike, better braking?
Winter bike, better braking?
discs with wider tyres!
Sorry sorry couldn’t resist!
I bought the pink giro jersey
I bought the pink giro jersey last year. Looked really nice and was on sale for 30 quid great top. Also drivers seem to give me more room when I’m wearing it.
Wear what you want. Bugger everyone else.
the repair price was 90 only s couple of months ago. they have not had a graduated increase over time but just bumped it up to nearly two hundred. Not sure how that can be justified.So they provided something that lasted for “a few years of almost constant daily use” and are prepared to repair (but at a higher price now) – and that’s a rip-off ? Not sure I follow…
