log in
register

The reason I run tubeless

  • Creator
    Topic
  • February 27, 2018 at 8:13 pm #28186
    mattydubster

    Following on from another thread – You can keep yer watts and yer weight – the only reason I run tubeless is to stop most punctures while out biking.  That’s it.

    I was out on sunday on some awful gritty muddy road and the front tyre went down to about perhaps 30psi.  Tyre had punctured and the sealant did its job.  I just pulled over, inflated with co2 and in 2 minutes was riding again. 

    Last spring I serviced the tyres – There were 7 thorns in the tyres that the sealant sorted out.  That’s 7 roadside punctures avoided in the cold winter months (yes I do go on some pretty shitty roads).

    I carry a spare tube in my seat tube, co2, those wriggly worm things, a pump and a tyre boot.   Plus all the other shnizzle for general maintenance, so I’m defo not a weight weenie!  

    Is tubeless setting up a pain in the arse?  Yes it is.  Is it worth it?  definitely.

     

    Just my tuppence worth 🙂

  • Creator
    Topic
Viewing 10 replies - 1 through 10 (of 10 total)
  • Author
    Replies
  • March 1, 2018 at 5:35 pm #913457
    0
    Anonymous

    I don’t run tubeless, my

    I don’t run tubeless, my Giant 28mm front and conti contact rear on my commute go off road, on shity roads, grit, flinty lanes and all sorts. I haven’t had a puncture in 2.5 years and 3 in 7 years, one a slow one that i managed to get home home fine.

    That’s the reason I don’t go tubeless, it’s over egged.

    March 1, 2018 at 4:07 pm #913455
    0
    AfterPeak

    tincaman wrote:

    tincaman wrote:
    SpikeBike wrote:
    That’s nothing. My tubeless tyres once got set on fire and I simply blew them out then cycled 150miles home… Lol

    But seriously I have just started to run them so glad of the advice on what to carry. One thing I still don’t know is that I have sealant in my tyre but not sure how to replace the sealant? Or do I just deflat and add another 50mls? Am I meant to scrap out the old?

    Hang the bike up, deflate the tyre, remove the
    Valve core, use a small hex key or cocktail stick through the valve hole as a dipstick

    Nice tip!

    March 1, 2018 at 10:44 am #913453
    0
    HLaB

    I got a tubeles disc wheel

    I got a tubeles disc wheel last year and apart from the initial faff and the faff topping up, after 3 months (I think I did it twice only), Ive been impressed with it, so I’ve finally got the cash together to order a set of Hunt wheels for the road bike.  Hopefully they come in enough time so I can use them for LEJOG.

    March 1, 2018 at 9:08 am #913451
    0
    tincaman

    SpikeBike wrote:

    SpikeBike wrote:
    That’s nothing. My tubeless tyres once got set on fire and I simply blew them out then cycled 150miles home… Lol

    But seriously I have just started to run them so glad of the advice on what to carry. One thing I still don’t know is that I have sealant in my tyre but not sure how to replace the sealant? Or do I just deflat and add another 50mls? Am I meant to scrap out the old?

    Hang the bike up, deflate the tyre, remove the
    Valve core, use a small hex key or cocktail stick through the valve hole as a dipstick

    March 1, 2018 at 8:49 am #913449
    0
    hawkinspeter

    SpikeBike wrote:

    SpikeBike wrote:
    One thing I still don’t know is that I have sealant in my tyre but not sure how to replace the sealant? Or do I just deflat and add another 50mls? Am I meant to scrap out the old?

    I recently bought and fitted the MilKit valves/system and that’s the easiest way to check/replace sealant though it’s not cheap but should be a one-off purchase (per bike).

    Previously, checking sealant involves unseating the tyre and looking inside it and squirting in some extra sealant. AFAIK there’s no problem with leaving old/dried sealant inside the tube – it just adds a tiny bit of weight. You might find it therapeutic to scrape out the old bits but I’ve never bothered.

    March 1, 2018 at 8:05 am #913447
    0
    Johnnystorm

    Different sealants behave
    Different sealants behave differently. I have had stans dry out and leave ‘stanimals’ rubber blobs like fractal shapes. Others, like MTG and orange seal just dry to leave a stripe uniformly inside the centre of the tyre. Other than the stans bouncy balls I never bother clearing it out, just add more sealant. I should add this is on mtb tyres that last longer time wise as I don’t ride off Road that often. Orange seal and NRG have lasted the life of a road tyre (more miles but more quickly covered).

    I suffered a flat on my fat bike yesterday as the sealant had run dry. I did however last top it up in 2015!

    February 28, 2018 at 11:11 pm #913445
    0
    Boatsie

    SpikeBike wrote:

    SpikeBike wrote:
    That’s nothing. My tubeless tyres once got set on fire and I simply blew them out then cycled 150miles home… Lol

    But seriously I have just started to run them so glad of the advice on what to carry. One thing I still don’t know is that I have sealant in my tyre but not sure how to replace the sealant? Or do I just deflat and add another 50mls? Am I meant to scrap out the old?

    No idea. Does it become uniformly solidified?

    Last tyre change I stayed tubed. Usually rolling Refuse Maxxis with tuffy liners. Had 3 4-5mm thorns penetrate tyre recently. 1 out of 3 pierced tube. Stayed hard to ride 3+ hours. Very slight puncture. Noticed that the bloke I bought the bike from must have used sealant because there were 10+ sealed holes on the tube. My biggest problem with tubes was pinch flats yet no longer using very worn very old low grade rims seems to have changed that.
    I didn’t like that day. Ended with 5 blown tubes in succession because on old bike with newer used bike front rim which was ok but rear rim took 2/3 thorns that didn’t penetrate tube. Took out thorns and replaced then literally watched the tyre (good 1 but can’t remember brand) refuse to bead on rim. 1 of the tubes was factory filled with sealant and at about 80psi the rim kept popping of the tyre and slicing the tubes. Messy stuff with sealant.
    A serviceable rim with tubed and sealant still a pretty decent option.

    February 28, 2018 at 6:37 pm #913443
    0
    mike the bike

     

     

    I too ride some appalling winter roads, littered with hedge clippings and grit, but my tubed Michelins don’t seem to suffer the troubles Matty gets.  Over the last few years, riding about 4000 miles annually,  I’ve averaged a flat a year, nothing like the seven he has seen.

    Using only high quality tyres and tubes and keeping the pressures on the lowest recommended figure (I’m a lightweight) seems to work for me.

    But one day, when they’ve solved the fitting and the sealant problems I shall go tubeless, just to keep up with progress.  But I won’t expect my cycling to be any less hassle than it is now, that would be almost impossible.

     

    February 28, 2018 at 6:32 pm #913441
    0
    AfterPeak

    That’s nothing. My tubeless
    That’s nothing. My tubeless tyres once got set on fire and I simply blew them out then cycled 150miles home… Lol

    But seriously I have just started to run them so glad of the advice on what to carry. One thing I still don’t know is that I have sealant in my tyre but not sure how to replace the sealant? Or do I just deflat and add another 50mls? Am I meant to scrap out the old?

    February 28, 2018 at 6:40 am #913439
    0
    BrokenBootneck

    I agree really, it’s s bit of

    I agree really, it’s s bit of a faff initially, but especially something like Hutchinson sector 28s they are bombproof. Even running schalwbe pro ones for a year on my commuter/winter bike I had to put a tube in once on the road.

     

    And once more when I went off roading and killed the tyre, got to work booted the tyre at lunch and cycled 30 miles home.  

  • Author
    Replies
Viewing 10 replies - 1 through 10 (of 10 total)
  • You must be logged in to reply to this topic.