Forum Replies Created
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Go back to spds and get some
Go back to spds and get some stiff shoes.
Outside racing road pedals don’t offer any benefits.I don’t know who set up your
I don’t know who set up your BB7s but if you “suffered” with them, you should change the mechanic… Correctly adjusted and with sensibly routed cables they are smooth and powerful. Just saying.
Compressionless casing makes a difference of few milimeters in a lever throw. IMO worth getting. Jagwire Ricpords are probably the best without spending a fortune.Too much fad fasting “science
Too much fad fasting “science” and calorie counting here…IMO you don’t ride enough and not consistently enough. Aim at min. 8-10h a week of CONSISTENT reasonably hard riding. If you have less time than that, crank up the intensity. Commuting is the best way of achieving it as it puts your riding in a certain time frame / routine. Darkness and “bad” weather are just excuses. There is nothing better than bombarding your body every day with two workouts.
Forget about counting calories, weighing yourself, riding fasted (which only wastes your muscles). Don’t analyse it. Just ride your bike hard enough consistently and sooner or later yoo’ll loose the ballast.It’s been established that
It’s been established that larger chainrings/cogs combos have higher mechanical efficiency due to lower chain friction (see the huge jockey wheels that some pros use).
The diffrences are probably marginal.
Completely slick bicycle
Completely slick bicycle tyres offer the best grip only on the completely slick surfaces which don’t happen in the real world outside the laboratory or a velodrome.
A diamond/file pattern tread which you can see on some tougher winter/roubaix kind of tyres actually improves grip on the roads due to the fact that it interlocks with the imperfections of the surface. Even seemingly the smoothest tarmac or concrete is really rough when looking up close.
Degrease and dry your chain
Degrease and dry your chain completely with one of the methods described above, get some Squirt wax lube (unless you’re from Scotland) and never clean the chain again other than giving it a quick wipe before relubing.
Also use two or three chain in rotation (every few hundred miles). You’ll extend the lifespan of all drive components and you’ll never need to measure the wear or to replace chain(s) too early or too late.
“Complicated” business made simple 😉
Almost finished neo-retro
Almost finished neo-retro Huissoon Columbus SLX ride.
Light-Bicycle 55mm rims on Novatec Classic (Ambrosio) hubs, Schwalbe One tubeless 28mm and 25mm tyres, Woolfteeth narrow-wide 44T chainring, Campy Monoplaner brakes, VO Grand Cru handlebars and… vinyl wrap emulating chrome…
With the right tyres a RIGID
With the right tyres a RIGID mountain bike will make a perfect commuter and will effectively be a “hybrid” but with better tyre clearance.
You don’t need 700C wheels and narrow tyres to go fast.
If you know what to look for you could start with a nice rigid retro MTB for £150-250 off EBay.You have plenty of choice at
You have plenty of choice at various price points nowadays.
£300 is indeed stupid for any piece of cycle clothing but you can get good kit from e.g DHB, Altura, Endura, Decathlon for much less. It’ll often do the job just as well.Try a 140mm stem and/or
Try a 140mm stem and/or handlebars with longer reach to find out.Most of people unknowingly ride frames one two sizes too small because no one told them how to seat properly on a bike (with their pelvis rotated forward)…
I’m 5’11 and with a typical setup – 3.5″ drop, 100mm stem and 75mm compact bars I’d need 60cm TT to stretch comfortably.
P.S. I’m not built like an orangutan 😉
This amount of tyre clearance
This amount of tyre clearance is just stupid. Seems ok for 25mm but restrict your options.Contact points, fit and tyre
Contact points, fit and tyre selection/width/volume will be responsible in 95% for the riding quality/comfort. Don’t obsess about of frame materials too much.It happens to some
It happens to some people/bikes and don’t happen to others. My setup is a DH 44t Middleburn chainring run on the inside for a perfect chainline, with a 11-25t 10sp cassette and the shortest possible chain. And without a fr mech acting as a guide the chain drops.You could go for a 11-28
You could go for a 11-28 cassette (easier to find) with a 46T chainring…
You’ll need some form of chain retention device. When I started running my 1×10 setup I was dropping the chain frequently even with a dedicated single chainring. The neatests solution would be to get a narrow wide chainring. Wolfteeth Components makes them in many sizes and BCD options.
The only drawback I can see with your setup would be gaps in between the gears. Think if you could live with a slightly higher bottom gear…Endura fs-260 Jetstream
Endura fs-260 Jetstream jersey
