Forum Replies Created
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You didn’t say how much
You didn’t say how much cycling you’re doing but you’re not going to get fast if you’re not willing to invest your time.
8-10 hours a week (annual average including winter, bad weather, holidays etc…) of riding would be a sensible target but if you have less time available then you need to crank up the intensity of your rides.
Extending your commute would be the most time effective way of getting more miles in.Hector Ch wrote:According to
According to that, I’m supposed to have 9.5 Bar in my tyres. Only problem is, my Conti 4000 S tyres say max pressure of 8.5 bar…Wonderful…
What this is clearly telling you is that you need wider tyres.
KiwiMike wrote:NO. Not unless
NO. Not unless you are on 23c’s and weigh 100kg. Follow this PDF, it’s science. Anyone else is wrong.
http://www.bikequarterly.com/images/TireDrop.pdf
Your arse, hands and times will thank you.+1
That’s definitely the best method available, at least as a starting point but it seems like science isn’t very much in nowadays 😉
Please stop blindly following manufacturers’ recommendations people.
Performance differences
Performance differences between 26″ and 700C wheels are negligible and have more to do with the individual setups, availability of suitable tyres and bikes/frames rather than with the wheel diameter itself. It’s mainly the tyres and body position, not wheels that make the bike go fast or slow.Is 19-20mph av. on a 26″ drop bar bike with MTB tyres fast enough? B-)
700C isn’t better or worse. It’s just one of the options 😉
No lube necessary for
No lube necessary for standard ss wires and teflon lined outers.
Go for full length outer casing if you want the cables to remain smooth for longer.You can get some
You can get some minimalistic, lightweight hydration packs with up to 3l. reservoirs which will do the job perfectly. There is no reason whatsoever not use them on the road unless you’re concerned about some stupid “rules”.Shimano STI shifters are
Shimano STI shifters are effectively expensive throwaway items.Baaa!
Baaa!(No subject)
B-)bashthebox wrote:Is that
Is that cheaper though? Half decent chain is 30 quid, half decent block about 60. Add the magic links into that (can you even re-use magic links?) and I’m not sure if that’s a false economy or not.10sp KMC chains (they come with reusable “missing links”) start from £13.60 and you don’t need spending more as in most of cases it won’t buy you extra lifespan, just marginal weight savings.
Similar thing with cassettes. A basic £20 Tiagra one will most likely last as long as the more expensive models.
There’s obviously a weight penalty coming with cheaper drivetrain components but you’re not going to notice the difference.Cycling can be cheap if you want it to be 🙂
Get three chains with your
Get three chains with your new cassette and use them in rotation (say every 200-300 miles) instead of waiting for the first chain to stretch by 0.75%.
Your cassette will live longer and you won’t need to keep an eye on the chain wear. There will be no issue of replacing the chain too early (waste) or too late (skipping / excessive wear on a cassette).
More economical and idiot proof.Topeak Hexus II.
The Alien
Topeak Hexus II.The Alien has too many tools (spanners) that you’d probably never use.
I typically use three KMC
I typically use three KMC chains per (basic) cassette in rotation and I change them every 1-2 weeks (200-400 miles)
It’s very quick with a “Missing Link”.That way I expose my cassette to less wear than if I waited for individual chains to stretch up to 0.75% before replacement.
The added bonus is that I don’t have to measure the wear.P.S. Other than an occasional wipe I never deep clean or degrease them as it’s not economically viable considering the time involved.
A road is like a catwalk.
If
A road is like a catwalk.
If you’re secure, confident and have the right body and moves, you can get away with wearing anything.Are you? Do you?
😉
SammyG wrote:BBB wrote:SammyG
Thousands, no.. millions, in fact 9 of 10 of roadies are still on pointless 23mm tyres (coz the pros use them…), mistaking vibrations and lack of comfort for speed and ignoring solid research on rolling resistance (e.g. excellent work by Bicycle Quarterly).
I won’t even start on a stupid 19-21mm trend from (I believe) 90’s that people mindlessly followed just like the pros…Bag of worms there, not that simple :x
It is very simple.
Yes the rolling resistance is simple which will save you 0.2 – 0.3 watts going from 23c to 25c, but aerodynamic implications are closer to 6 watts dependent on wheel rim width.
Testing rolling resistance using smooth steel drums and air resistance of wheels/tyres using a TT bike “ridden” at 25-30mph in full aero position is as far from typical riding conditions as it gets.
It makes very effective marketing, though.
