Forum Replies Created
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Most of people wouldn’t tell
Most of people wouldn’t be able to tell the the difference between various frames in a “blind” test, as some anecdotal evidence suggests.
It’s your tyres that are meant to deal with vibrations. If they don’t, you you’re running them too hard (100PSI?).
I can’t comment on the Merlin
I can’t comment on the Merlin but watch the tyre clearance on Planet x. As far as I remember 25mm is max.
Comfort that you are after will come mainly from the tyres, not some magical properties of carbon fibre. Don’t buy anything that won’t allow you running 28mm rubber.
Depending on the cost of
CHAIN ROTATION!
Depending on the cost of chainrings/cassette (it can vary a lot) it’s best to run 2-4 chains in rotation.
Rotate them say 300-500 miles (it takes seconds with quick links) and simply use the whole drivetrain as long as you can.
Using this method you will never throw away any chain too early or replace it too late. No need for a wear indicator either, ever.
From the “point of view” of other drivetrain components, using x number of chains in rotation is like running a single uber chain with 1/x of wear rate. The wear on components is reduced, especially in the beginning.
One more overlooked advantage is ability of using another chain in case of a serious mechanical that damages the current one (chain suck, rear mech in spokes drama etc…) You know that at least one of the other chains will mesh with other components.
They are ugly regardless the
They are ugly regardless the colours.
Not sure what happend to the thread question but Planning a 100 mile charity ride in August, and currently managed over the last 2 weeks, 66.8 miles last week with a 22 mile, 13 mile and 31 mile ride, so far this week managed a 32 mile ride, and 41 miles today. Not riding everyday that would kill me. Due to work pattern usually ride a couple of days one week and 3 the following then back to 2 and so on.If you ride ONLY 2-3 times a week you really need to try to kill yourself on every ride. You’ll have plenty of time to recover.
You generally don’t need to “train” for a sportive. Unfit people don’t lack training structure, they just don’t cycle often / hard enough (especially in winter/bad weather). I hope you own a decent waterproof jacket;-)
matthewn5 wrote:
The other factor is modern deep rim low spoke count wheels. They are stiff and efficient but very uncomfortable on rough roads.
Back in the day on the pavé the pros used to go for a low profile rim and 32-26 spoke wheels because the rims were more flexible and gave a softer ride. It’s something worth thinking about, any wheelbuilder can make them and they’re not even expensive.
This written after getting a bit sick of bashing over bloody speed bumps (CS1) on my commute on my Canyon Ultimate AL with Zondas, which is normally a beautifully smooth ride thanks to the carbon/basalt seatpost and carbon forks, but now feels to harsh.
There is no such thing as “(un)comfortable” or “efficient” wheels. Vertical deflection of any correctly built and tensioned wheel will be negligible comparing to any pneumatic tyres. Yes I know some people can “tell” the difference but it’s only in a head.
Also above certain level of adequate stifness wheels don’t get any “faster” or more “efficient”.
Several articles/tests have already debunked the wheel myths, including the rotating mass obssession.P.S. Thick robust tyres can be actually comfortable especially on bigger impacts, as long as the (lower) pressure accounts for the casing stiffness. E.g. Schwalbe Marathon Greens may need less 20-40PSI comparing to high end acing tyres.
Fit the widest tyres your
Fit the widest tyres your bike can accomodate and keep lowering the pressure until you’re happy. If it’s still not good enough and you can’t fit anything wider, you’ve got a wrong bike for the task.All socks except of the low
All socks except of the low cut ones look stupid with shorts.
Hope freehub. Tested on many
Hope freehub. Tested on animals and humans 😉
Tubeless of course.
Tubeless of course.
With a decent sealant like Stans or Orange Seal puncture free riding even on high end racing tyres and ability to run pressure you WANT without a risk of pinch flats.
And in a full glory
And in a full glory 🙂
In the simplest terms cup and
In the simplest terms cup and cone hubs are consumables that still need servicing and cartridge hubs are a fit and forget investment.
With cup and cone you need to always stay on the top of maintenance routine. If you don’t, the (unreplaceable) bearing races will get pitted). With cartridge ones you use them until they develop significant play or roughness. That’s the only time you need to service them.
My Hope rear hub clocked over 30000 miles in all possible conditions. No cleaning, adjusting or any other maintenance. The bearings are slightly rough but when I finally put the new ones in the hub will be like new.
Fkfkfkfkfkfkkfkf
Good job.
44×11-25 10sp on my summer road bike. Never understood the need for 50×11 BTW
Wolfteeth narrow wide chainring works exactly as advertised. Not a single chain drop.
Loving it 🙂
“In real world terms for an
“In real world terms for an amateur” get ones that look cool (coming from the new owner of 55mm wheels that don’t make any noticeable difference…)
john kirk wrote:
Making the change to racing shoes and pedals I saved 250g a side compared to by old spd shoes and pedals.
Thats a 500g bag of suger in total I dont have to push up and down any more.
My legs certainly feel less weary.
The difference between similarily priced road and mtb combos is going to be much less than 500g.
