Forum Replies Created
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Replies
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abudhabiChris wrote:
When IWhen I go out with a club group there are inevitably people I don’t know. Now you may have a different view but when I’m riding six inches from someone’s wheel, or someone is rubbing elbows, I like them to have some idea what they’re doing.
It isn’t infallible but one makes immediate judgements about people on these rides, simply in the interests of preservation. Decent, well-maintained bike, well-chosen kit and shaved legs tell me that you are likely to be serious about riding and more to the point that you probably know what you’re doing when riding in a bunch.
I’m not saying that hairy-legged people in baggy shorts and cheap bikes (or hairy-legged people in head to toe Assos on stupidly expensive bikes for that matter) are incapable of meeting those standards, but I will give them a bit more room and take a little longer to come to a decision.
In other words, you’re prejudiced towards riders who don’t conform to your ideal image of a “serious” cyclist.
One look at someone’s riding style/speed and leg definition will tell you everything you need yo know about how serious they are about cycling.
Leg shaving and bike/kit have very little to do with it.Baaa!
I have a loud Hope 2 rear hub
I have a loud Hope 2 rear hub and a small ping bell with an o-ring (attaches anywhere in a second).
If none of them have any effect, I use my “enforcer” – 120dB Airzound B-)
Although VERY LOUD (even in traffic), with a bit of practice it can be used gently or in a intimidating way, depending on a situation.Hope Hoops. Fit and forget.
Hope Hoops. Fit and forget. Nothing to adjust or service.UltraFire 502B 1000 Lumens
UltraFire 502B 1000 Lumens CREE XM-L T6 from Ebay. Not really 1000 lumens but not very far.
£14 posted with a charger and two batteries. Light on its own is only £7 posted! Get two for more power/flexibility/as a backup.3/4 shorts make perfect
3/4 shorts make perfect sense.
Thighs and KNEES get (subjectively) colder than shins so they need ever so slightly more thermal protection. What’s not to understand?I wonder if anyone would ever bothered with warmers if it weren’t the pros using them 😉
Most of regular CX tyres can
Most of regular CX tyres can be run tubeless with a sealant.I use a stopwatch to time my
I use a stopwatch to time my rides and fingers to calculate” the hourage 😉Cycling is an endurance sport
Cycling is an endurance sport and how fast you can cycle is determined by power (force x speed) NOT by max. force you can apply to the pedals (determined by strength).If you’re able to climb up steep hills and walk up the stairs, you have enough strength to ride a bike and the available training time will be better spent improving threshold power at your optimal cadence.
There’s no evidence (only typical roadie anecdotes) to suggest that riding any bike without gears will improve your cycling speed and pedalling technique any more than a geared bike.
Low Speed Wobble wrote:BBB
What do you need more strength for?You’re on a cycling forum, and you’re asking why the quest for greater strength? Have you ever ridden a bike and wanted to go that little bit faster? That’ll be the answer.
I wonder if you’re confusing strength with power. 😉
Low Speed Wobble wrote:BBB
What’s the deal with “improving strength”?
Do you guys need to push your bikes up the hill because your legs aren’t strong enough?Isn’t pedalling at high cadence on a geared bike good enough for “improving technique”?
Improving strength and improving technique are (clearly) two different things. Spinning up a gradient will get you to the top but it won’t build your strength in the same way that pushing a harder gear will. That’s what we guys mean.
I understand that they are two different things. That’s why there are two separate questions…
What do you need more strength for?
What’s the deal with
What’s the deal with “improving strength”?
Do you guys need to push your bikes up the hill because your legs aren’t strong enough?Isn’t pedalling at high cadence on a geared bike good enough for “improving technique”?
BBB wrote:SammyG wrote:BBB
Thousands, no.. millions, in fact 9 of 10 of roadies are still on pointless 23mm tyres (coz the pros use them…), mistaking vibrations and lack of comfort for speed and ignoring solid research on rolling resistance (e.g. excellent work by Bicycle Quarterly).
I won’t even start on a stupid 19-21mm trend from (I believe) 90’s that people mindlessly followed just like the pros…Bag of worms there, not that simple :x
It is very simple.
Yes the rolling resistance is simple which will save you 0.2 – 0.3 watts going from 23c to 25c, but aerodynamic implications are closer to 6 watts dependent on wheel rim width.
Testing rolling resistance using smooth steel drums and air resistance of wheels/tyres using a TT bike “ridden” at 25-30mph in full aero position is as far from typical riding conditions as it gets.
It makes very effective marketing, though.
“Faster, stronger, lighter…
“Faster, stronger, lighter… for under £1,000”Sounds like a good training plan 😉
racingcondor wrote:BBB
Why bother with tubs if tubeless tyres run on wider rims will render them obsolete pretty soon.Because they won’t. Clinchers will still weigh more at the rim and will still be suceptable to pinch flats.
Clinchers and tubeless have caught up in rolling resistance (and probably win in the fight for Aero thanks to things lke firecrest) but tubs are great.
Unless e.g. you hit a kerb at 30mph and cut the actual casing you can’t have a pinch flat with tubeless tyres. There is nothing to pinch, is there?
Clinchers and tubeless caught up with rolling resistance?
Tubs have never rolled faster than clinchers (comparing THE SAME tyre model). It’s only on very rough surfaces (e.g. cobbles) that the ability of running lower pressure without increasing risk of pinch flats results in lower rolling resistance. Also at high speed flats tubs will stay on the rim which helps greatly during a 40mph descent…I’m pretty sure that improved rolling resistance of tubeless combined with all advantages of tubs will be worth the insignificant weight penalty.
Rolling resistance shouldn’t be trivialised.I agree though that tubs will be still available as niche/retro products, just like down tube shifters, toe clips and quill stems 😉
Handuilt:
DT 180 hubs, Sapim
Handuilt:
DT 180 hubs, Sapim CX Ray spokes, Stans Alfa 400 rims.Then get some tubeless Schwalbe “One” tyres (avail. in Sep) and you’re sorted.
Why bother with tubs if tubeless tyres run on wider rims will render them obsolete pretty soon.
