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The rim profile doesn’t look
The rim profile doesn’t look tubeless friendly at all with its sloping bead seat.
I believe that in case of a more serious puncture and resulting air loss, the tyre beads wouldn’t stay “locked” and the system would deflate instantly.
G-Ones Allround use the same
G-Ones Allround use the same compound as Pro Ones and their casing is very thin and supple. They roll at least as fast as half decent road tyres on smooth tarmac and even faster on the rough stuff. They certainly didn’t prevent me from getting from Southampton to Cornwall in a day (with a tent and some camping gear).
Considering that 25mm is a choice of pros, logically a typical heavier, slower and less aero non-competing weekend warrior / sportive rider shouldn’t even consider anything narrower than 28-30mm (on wide rims) for “fast” riding. It’s a no brainer really. One size doesn’t fit all.
Pro Ones are lovely but they can cut badly. G-Ones Speed 30mm are a more robust alternative. Another option would be Specialized S-work Turbos (tubeless) in 28mm.
Wheels will make almost no difference to the ACTUAL (not perceived) speed.
Another option – Specialized
Another option – Specialized Roubaix tubeless in 28mm or 32mm casing.
Brake housing must be too
The brake housing must be too short.
Try fitting the widest tyres
Try fitting the widest tyres you bike clears first and run them at lower pressure. Unless you weigh a lot, 28mm tyres can be easily run at 70-80PSI and even less at the front, particularly tubeless.
Your choice of fast 650B 35-38mm tyres will be limited. I can think only about Schwalbe G-Speed and Panaracer Gravel King in 38mm but not much is available in 35mm. Another thing to bear in mind is lower bottom bracket height with a 650b setup although it’s easy to get use to it after a number of pedal strikes;-)
Best advice is to get a bike with sensible tyre clearance…
It’s a brilliant marketing ploy, we already had 650C(571) and 26″(557), there was no need to go back to the old french tyre size except if you wanted to get people to buy frames/bikes/wheels with the new size and say hey look we’ve got something that’s brilliant that fits your need.Either 650C or 26″ could have worked, all that was needed was to expand the tyre choice, nope instead just resurrect a long gone sizing which very few existing frames could accept which means as highlighted perfectly by the OP, buying a new frame/bike.
I already have 40 and 42mm wide 700C tyres that work perfectly fine on my 18mm wide rims, my frame will accept 55mm wide 700C tyres if I so wished (sans guards, 48mm with) so I don’t need to buy another frame that is heavier, more unwieldy than what was being sold 10 years ago and to boot more expensive with lower spec components.
yawn!
Go try a bike with WTB Horizens fitted – you’ll be in for a nice surprise.
Yes there are all those other sizes around, but the point about 650b is that with a wider tyre the outer diamter is the same as 700×25/28. So what you might say, but for smaller riders like myself 700×50 just doesn’t really work, plus they weight more.
My gravel/touring bike has 700×43, but I’d much rather have 650×2.2 given that the forest roads can be pretty rough. My commuting bike has WTB Horizens, and it’s absolutely brilliant for blatting through town – don’t need to worry anything like as much about rough surfaces or pot holes, and it rolls really quickly.
Also, there are very few decent quality larger volume tyre options for 650C or, 26″ or even 700c (except for off road tyres in the latter two). Previously if you wanted to go big volume with a road tyre, you had to put up with a heavy and slow rolling city or traditional touring tyre.
Now, thanks to WTB and a few others, there are some light and really fast rolling big volume tyres available for 650b wheels.
oh and there are no lowrider mounts on the Whyte nor many other 650b bikes which my 10 year old frame does not to mention the Whyte has ‘alloy’ forks, no wonder they need wider tyres!yawn again!
The days of loading up your bike with excess metal before you even start to strap any bags of stuff onto it are gone.
Why carry stuff and weight you don’t need to? Hence all the lightweight touring stuff available that don’t need fixed mounts on the bike.
You need to get some sleep or maybe you have narcolepsy?
I don’t need to try 47mm horizons, if I need a wide tyre there’s already plenty of choice in the 700C market and the only reason for not producing more wider tyres in the slick road design in 700C is that the manufacturers want to flog a different product, it’s not hard to fathom is it! YAWN!!
This could have been done with 26″(557) or 650C (571) size, 26″ was the go to size for off the beaten track touring/continental rides as they were easier to find in remote places, now try finding your 650B tyre in the back and beyond, you imply won’t! There was absolutely no practical reason to switch back to 650B other than to promote sales of a different type of frameset/bike.
And my point was you get less practical framesets, lower spec and a higher price coompared to even just 10 years ago, for those that want to have low riders it’s at very little cost to the manufacturer and indeed using cheap shit alloy forks means the ride is not as good as steel or indeed CF.
650B is a fad manufactured for sales alone, it solves no problem, it doesn’t aid reliability, it doesn’t aid comfort over what already existed and indeed limits availiability in a bog standard high street store or somewhere really remote.
YAAAAAAAAWWWWWWNNNNNNN.
As it’s been said many times before, 650b is a wheel size that allows you to run higher volume tyres on frames designed originally for 700c without upsetting the geometry and handling, as tyres on both wheels are of a similar diameter. It’s just another option which allows more open minded people to experiment with different setups suitable for their type of riding. It’s difficult to understand why anyone would be so worked out about having more choice…
You seem to very ignorant of other people’s experiences and preferences and mistake your very own personal opinions for the reality. There is a big difference between holding an opinion and being opinionated.
You don’t need a specific 650b bike to run 650b wheelsErrr yes you do, rim brakes can’t be adapted to 650b. And most of the standard bikes ever made take 622 (700c) or the old 635 rims and have rim brakes. You can only swap wheel sizes with disc brakes.
The OP is considering a NEW bike which will come with disc brakes. I thought it was obvious. It’s 2018, not 2008.
You don’t need a specific
You don’t need a specific 650b bike to run 650b wheels and any bike can be coverted to x1 setup unless you need a dinner plate size cassette.
I don’t know how wide you want to go but most of latest allroad type bikes with700x40 ish clearance will take even wider 650b tyres. Spesh Diverge, Pinnacle Arkose, Genesis CDA, Charge Plug and quite a few more bikes would be great candidates.
The same bike can be a racer, backpacker or gravel cruiser depending on the wheels and tyres fitted. Just like my Charge Plug 🙂
P.S. Whether it’s a fad or not is irrelevant. Some people simply don’t get it.
Procedure for cleaning a
Procedure for cleaning a parrafin waxed chain (which never gets very dirty to begin with)
Agigate it for 30 seconds under very hot running water. No mess and no chemicals involved.
G-One Speeds are now
G-One Speeds are now available in 35mm and 38mm widths as well.
Less thread than G-One Allround, added V-guard puncture protection and similar LOW rolling resistance.
Personally I find G-Ones Allrounds (tubeless setup) prone to punctures from tiny flints and stones that cut through the casing. The cheaper performance version may be more robust, though.
Does anyone know the difference between Compass Bon Jons and the Panaracer GravelKings? They look pretty similar, have the same 60psi tubeless limit and the Compass are made by Panaracer i think.Putting fat tyres on small wheels ruins (suined them). It’s what gave small wheelers a bad reputation as rotating weight and rolling resistance increases. It’s what killed off the original 1960s Moultons and what made Alex Moulton a very bitter man, as he sold a licence to Raleigh to make them only for Raleigh to ditch the suspension for fat tyres to make them cheaper.There are so many misconceptions about small wheeled bikes. I used to sell the AM Moultons (1983 on) and they sold themselves – the simple secret was giving people a test ride. People couldn’t believe how fast and comfortable they were, and also how well they handle.
Please stop spreading pseudo-science .
As it’s been discussed many times before, rotating mass is bordeline irrelevant when you take into account the weight of the entire system (including the rider).
Fatter tyres have LOWER not higher rolling resistance particularily on bad roads when used at proportionally lower pressure.
250w is too little and 90PSI (for 28mm tyres) way too much.what a strange answer. 250w is way too little for *what*? and 90PSI for 28s is way too much…why?
It’s not a strange answer. It’s a very simple one.
Objectively 250W is a moderate amount of power and clearly not enough to keep up with the other guys.
90 PSI in 28mm tyres at 70kg is simply too much pressure. On typical UK roads it’ll slow you down, reduce comfort and distrupt the pedaling rythm. Far too many people still don’t understand what pneumatic tyres were invented for.
250w is too little and 90PSI
250w is too little and 90PSI (for 28mm tyres) way too much.
