Forum Replies Created
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Replies
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EBay is full of lovely
EBay is full of lovely 80-90’s steel frames.
I’ve got my Columbus SLX one for under £150 posted.You can use stiff lightweight
You can use stiff lightweight MTB shoes and pedals and be just as comfortable and “efficient” 😉 A bit of extra weight isn’t going to make you any slower.I have:
– Hope rear hub
–
I have:
– Hope rear hub
– bell
– Air Zound hornThey all have their uses but the most effective one on pedestrians is a loud freehub. It’s about as loud as a bell but less intimidating.
700c wrote:BBB wrote:
With
With narrow tyres, higher pressure won’t make you faster, just less comfortable.Why? I don’t get it. Are you saying that running higher pressures on wider tyres will make you faster? or remain as comfortable as at lower pressures? but that this isn’t the case with narrow tyres? Also what is the definition of ‘narrow’ and ‘wide’ in mm to get to the sweet spot of the tyre pressure-comfort-speed relationship?
Granted, I’m being slightly facetious, and I get that there is a trend towards wider tyres for UK roads which have some inherent benefits for many.. but I don’t think the science is saying ‘go as wide as you can to be fast and comfortable’, or at least it’s not a simple case of ‘wider is better’ as people like to make out..
There’s evidence that at least in case of racing tyres, on smooth tarmac, pressure make almost no difference to speed. Logically it’ll make one faster on rougher surfaces due to reduced “suspension losses” (vibrations and up and down movement of the rider’s body).
Pneumatic tyres were invented as suspension not to emulate solid wheels. The only possible reason for putting around 100PSI in bicycle tyres is to prevents pinch flats (in which case the tyre is too narrow for a given rider).
Personally I wouldn’t ride any setup that would force me to run over 60-70 PSI.
Start at 100PSI and then try
Start at 100PSI and then try dropping it. If after several rides you don’t suffer pinch flats/rim strikes and handling issues, drop it even more and keep dropping it.A few things to remember:
Ignore manufacturer’s recommendations.
Ignore what other people run (most of them run their tyres too hard).
With narrow tyres, higher pressure won’t make you faster, just less comfortable.
Front tyre carries less weight so it needs fewer PSI.Slight misunderstanding. When
Slight misunderstanding. When I first replied I used external widths as this is what I believe most of people are more familiar with that, then I started quoting internal dimensions to be more precise.
I realise how wide “proper” Mtb rims/wheels are as I wouldn’t use anything narrower than 35mm myself but the ones within OP’s budget typically are ERTO 622-19C…As for Cannondale Bad Boys, 25mm is a stupid size (just a strong personal opinion) for urban commuting (or even training on some roads) regardless of the rim width.
The only measurement relevant
The only measurement relevant in this discussion is inner width measured at the the bead hook(s).
The new generation of 23mm rims measure around 17mm inside and the 25mm ones listed above have 19-21mm inner width which is exactly the same as many MTB XC wheels.Someone tell those guys they
Someone tell those guys they are doing it wrong! Their rims have the same or wider inner width that many mtb wheelsets (typically 24.5-25mm and 19mm inner)http://road.cc/content/review/132864-spin-koppenberg-max25-25mm-wide-fat-boy-clincher-wheels
http://www.planetx.co.uk/i/q/RIPXCT45CCL/planet-x-ct45-carbon-clincher-rim
I think it’s a similar
I think it’s a similar situation to running non-tubeless mtb tyres… tubeless with a bit of sealant, gaffer or Gorilla tape or split tube ghetto method. It looks and sounds dodgy, it shouldn’t work, Mavic says that it can kill you… (because they want you to buy their expensive UST rims and ignore what consumers really want) but… it works and plenty of people enjoy the benefits.Like I said before many people have been using narrow slicks with various mtb rims for ages and I haven’t heard any stories about spontaneous blowouts. What Mavic and many other companies say you can or can’t run is dictated largely their legal and marketing teams IMO.
The guys from Continental would be terrified if they knew that I’m running their 28mm (32mm) slick tubeless at 50PSI at the front… but I know it worksP.S. Many budget MTB wheels
P.S. Many budget MTB wheels come with 25mm wide rims anyway. Put some 28mm or wider tyres on and it’ll make a perfect commuter setup.I don’t really get it.
Bead
I don’t really get it.Bead security issue? Plenty of people run 1″ ish slicks on 26″ rims at 100PSI and they are still alive.
The width of mtb rims isn’t an issue but an ADVANTAGE. Nowadays it’s normal to run 23mm rubber on 25mm rims so logically +25mm tyres will spread better on wider rims.
Currently I run Conti Grand Prix 28mm mtb slicks (exactly the same as their 700C cousins) on 28mm Stans rims. They stretch to around 31-32mm and they handle beautifully.
The max pressure warnings on mtb rims are about wide mtb tyres run tubeless. It’s only to prevent some fools to put 60PSI in their 2.35″ tyres;-) You can still run narrower tyres at high pressure without an issue.It looks like anything with a MTB label on it is evil in a road cycling world;-)
There is no reason why not.
There is no reason why not.
25mm tyres will easily go on 25 or even 26mm rims. Pressure isn’t an issue either when using with tubes.
I managed to put 28mm Schwalbe One tubeless tyres on 28mm Superstar MTB rims. The tyres stretched to wonderful 30-32mmI can’t recommend any
I can’t recommend any particular model as I never use factory wheels but look also at 29er MTB wheels. Many of them will have 25-26mm wide rims so no problems with using 25mm or 28mm or wider tyres. Weight will be similar.28mm
Why would you restrict
28mmWhy would you restrict yourself to a choice of either 23mm or 25mm ?
There is too much BS
There is too much BS surrounding the subject of wheels. The perceived benefits don’t translate to real life performance gains for most of amateur riders.
