As mentioned in our intro, the three main types of pump are floor pumps, mini/portable pumps and CO2 inflators. Let's do a bit of a deeper dive on each:
Floor pumps/track pumps
Known as track pumps because they're the most common way to get the very high pressures used in track cycling, floor pumps make it easy to get air into your tyres. A floor pump has a handle to help you get your weight behind the job, feet that are big enough to stand on to hold it in place, and a gauge so you can get the pressure spot on. The narrower the barrel of a floor pump, the easier it is to get high pressures, but it will take more strokes.
All track pumps have some sort of chuck to attach to the valve, but there are many different designs. Some use a universal mechanism that will fit Presta and Schrader valves, while others have a separate attachment for each type. Almost all have a lever to clamp the chuck round the valve.
There's some debate about where the pressure gauge should be. Some manufacturers put it at the top of the barrel, which makes it easier to read, others put it at the bottom because it's less likely to get damaged there if the pump falls over. If you go for pump with a high gauge, make sure it has some sort of protection against falls.
Some pumps are definitely more robust than others, w
Portable pumps: mini pumps and frame pumps
A scaled down version of a frame pump, a mini pump is small enough to fit in a bag or pocket, or clips into a mount that fits under a bottle cage. Mini pumps are popular because they're light and tidy. They don't get a tyre up to pressure very quickly, but their fans see this as worth putting up with given how rarely they need them.
Classic frame pumps fit along the seat tube, between the top tube and down tube. Problem is, almost all bikes have two water bottles these days, and one of them is on the seat tube. That means you may need to get imaginative to carry a bike pump on your frame, fitting it along the top tube, perhaps with the help of straps or a clamp-on pump peg.
The length of a frame pump means it's a fairly quick way to inflate a tyre out on the road, and it doesn't cost you the price of a carbon dioxide cartridge every time. Some riders feel a frame pump spoils the look of their bikes, though.
Both frame pumps and mini pumps usually come set up for Presta valves, but can be switched to Schrader by swapping round some parts in the chuck.
CO2 inflators
With the work done by a small bottle of compressed gas, carbon dioxide (CO2) inflators are the fastest way of getting back on the road. They're perfect for sportives or fast training rides where you don't want to be holding up the rest of the group by labouring with a bike pump.
As a gas expands it cools, so look out for CO2 inflators that protect your fingers from the canister, either with a rubber cover for the canister or by enclosing it in a plastic shell. Some inflators only pop open the canister when you use it, and don't allow you to use only part of the available gas, others have a trigger so you can use just part of the contents.
A 16g cartridge will get a 23mm tyre up to 90-100psi, which should be plenty to get you home. Threaded cartridges are usually slightly more expensive than unthreaded.
Other sub-genres of bike pump or inflation tools are pressure gauges, if you're really fanatical about making sure you've got the exact amount of PSI, and tubeless tanks that can be purchased separately to a track pump. Our top-recommended pressure gauge is the Topeak D2X Digital Pressure Gauge and the Topeak Tubibooster X Tubeless Inflator would be our top tubeless inflator of choice.
is 297mm long and the largest size in the Lezyne Road Drive Alloy range, this is still a ‘mini pump’. Due to its longer length however, it’s very efficient, thus finding itself as our best mini pump for efficiency. 
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Your testing criteria was deeply flawed. In order to have accurate testing you should have used the same size tires for road testing, and the same size tires for gravel, use the same rideable psi like 80 for road, and the same rideable for gravel like 60, but keep the pressure the same! Hello? The way you guys put the PSI all over the map leads me to believe you didn't even actually test the pumps! you had some sort of agenda, maybe marketing revenue??
I have both, the Lezyne Road Drive large size mini, and the Topeak Race Rocket HP, both are really well made pumps, but the Lezyne only takes about 228 strokes to get a 25c tire to 80psi, whereas the Topeak takes about 315 strokes to reach the same psi. Also by testing how many strokes it takes a pump to get to 80 psi for example you get to experience the amount of strain needed for each pump to reach that level, and the Topeak takes more strain than the Lezyne does, this is more accurate of picture of a pumps effectiveness then to only use a limited number of strokes, say 200, and see how much psi each pump will reach in that stroke limitation, you cannot adequatly review a pump without that high 80 pound pressure experience.
I have had a lot of mini pumps, most of them I sent back to the places where I bought them from because they were huge fails, most of them were lucky if they got to 65 psi even though they say they can reach 160. I dare anyone here to take the best mini pump and try to get 160 psi in a tire! Not even the Lezyne or the Topeak will get there. I think this is false advertising on the part of pump manufactures. I had one pump, SKS Puro that when I got to 42 psi it blew the back of the pump out, and it was rated for 160 psi, fortuantely SKS had a great customer service department and they sent me their best Carbon Race Day pump instead, I still have that pump, and it can reach 80 psi with a great deal of work and about 420 strokes, but when I got that pump the Lezyne Road Drive and the Topeak Race Rocket HP were not on the market yet, so that SKS Carbon Race Day was the best on the market at the time; so I use that pump on my lower pressure bike.
My Topeak Race Rocket HP doesn't have an air release like my Lezyne Road Drive has, not sure if Topeak put that feature their newest model or not. Both are very durable, both of mine are about 8 years old and still work fine. The Topeak is a bit cheaper than the Lezyne is price is important then get the Topeak, if you want an physically easier pump to use and price isn't a consideration then get the Lezyne. By the way, according to test results I've read on the internet the Lezyne is better than any of the Silca mini pumps by quite a bit.
Sorry I'm being so mean!
Cool story bro.
I've had the Topeak Pocket Rocket for years now and I can atest to it's durability. I picked it up from a Halfords I was close to after i had a roadside puncture and my old pump (can't remember what it was) got stuck on the presta valve (it had already fallen apart a few times before). it's small enough that I can usually carry it around with me, often in the bottom of a bag knocking around and it's never let me down. I can get my tyre up to a decent pressure to get home. (where I use my Bontrager track pump to inflate to the corect pressue).
I'm reluctant to take a portable pump that has a screw-in type presta connector anymore - these invariably unscrew the valve core when detaching after pumping up the tyre at the roadside, letting all the air out and making you have to pump all over again (with the knowledge that this could happen every time).
On a recent club ride we failed with three different screw-in pumps (even tightening the valve core first!) before someone with a lever-compression fitting pump turned up and resolved the issue. I know some inner tubes are worse than others this but it's not worth the risk IMO.
I've got the Lezyne mini alloy pump, and I've only started to have the valve core removal thing recently with it, which makes me think it's a recent inner tube issue than a pump problem. Once you tighten up the core properly it doesnt (touch wood) happen again, but invariably in the field you dont have the tools to do that job and finger tight isnt enough,so you almost have to barely have the pump screwed to the valve for it to work.
That unscrewing happened to me using a lezyne when commuting in the p155ing rain pre-pandemic, so not exactly a recent issue! Beautifully made pump, but a nightmare to use. Ever since I've bought either thumb-lock style (eg. Topeak roadie) or Birzman's (they have a clever smart head design on some of their pumps).
Screw on presta connectors are fine if they have a pressure relief button, it is the residual pressure in the head that locks the threads together.
I do hope you are right.
I have the Lezyne micro floor HV with analogue gauge, first iteration, chuck broke and the replacement updated alloy chuck the sent me (nice!) had a pressure release button.
It's my day out carry around, normally left at work to make it easier there.
Previously used without hassle but on normal tubes, both presta and schrader, but now the Ultimate Commuter, which it pretty much my full time bike too, has tubeless. Pumping up those 3 inches, even to their low pressures, and then losing all of that air and effort...
Thing of beauty, but I reckon the Topeak version would have been more prictical.