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Sam Hardy took the win,
Sam Hardy took the win, riding for University of Bath CC, sponsored by ROAD.CC !
I do like the feel and
I do like the feel and tackiness of Lizard Skins, it costs a bomb and it wears out quicker than I’d like in my experience.
I recently brought some rubber ‘Pro’ (shimano) tape, I’m very pleased with it so far, has the same tackiness and also feels sturdier somehow, time will tell if it is. Still wasn’t cheap though.
You’ve highlighted an issue
You’ve highlighted an issue with buying cheap and online. The savings have to come from somewhere, both Canyon and Ribble are known for being difficult to deal with or having rigid customer service.
Remember you only ever hear from the person who has had problems, both are very popular brands and have many satisfied customers. Seems like you’re one of the unlucky ones.
I suspect that your frame was
I suspect that your frame was damaged before you sat on it a bit hard and heard a crack.
And if you’d not been hard on it, it’s logical that it would have been damaged on a trainer. If I were Canyon, I’d not warranty race or lightweight bikes used on trainers either. I can only imagine the force being put through the seat stays by a big guy sprinting.
However that’s totally repairable and a very common fix for a carbon repairer. A decent repairer will let you know of any other damage also. The £400 odd quote above is on the upper price end for a seat stay repair, I’d guesstimate more like £250.
I think the trick is not to
I think the trick is not to ‘drag’ on brakes down a mountain, but to feather them.
I’m not sure I’m clever enough to know why a seemingly equal amount of power used dragging or feathering is cooler than the other, but I suspect it’s something about maybe letting the air get to the brake block.
Canaries for the weather,
Canaries for the weather, cheaper than Europe usually also. I like Lanzarote, it’s small enough that you can drive from one side to the other in an hour and there’s always a volcano or mountain looming close enough to climb. Also the traffic and roads are very cycling friendly in general.
Almost all male World Hour Record rides ever were done at an average of 101-105rpm. The only exceptions are Jaques Anquetil and Graeme Obree who both averaged 93rpm (assuming their reported gear ratios were correct) The cadence hasn’t changed – just the ratios have gone up (Campenaerts rode 61×14 – 101.5rpm)That is not normal and misleading for everyone on this thread (unless you’re a pro). Riding at such high cadences for such a long time is not usual.
This article stuck a chord earlier this year..
https://road.cc/content/feature/256654-cadence-just-how-fast-should-you-pedal
Anecdotally, the classiest looking riders I’ve seen/know just tap out a constant low rhythm between 70-80.
My MAX HR is 182, I’m 42
My MAX HR is 182, I’m 42 years young and don’t know my current wattage output, but I’m quite sure it’d be in the tens of thousands. However wattage counts for not a lot really.. a better measure would be watts per kilo.
Take a look at this which isn’t too far out comparison wise, bear in mind it’s American so they have an extra category – https://bristolbikecentre.com/blog/how-do-you-compare-to-other-cyclists/
Be warned though comparing yourself to others could be a road to unhappiness. There will always be many people faster than you, unless you get paid to cycle for a living.
Enter a race if you are competitive and want to know where you sit within your local cat4’s or join a club to ride with others, you will find a group who are at your level with similar goals.
it’s just a little hill….
it’s just a little hill….
here’s the flyer
here’s the flyer
I read somewhere that there’s
I read somewhere that there’s something like two companies in the far east which make ‘all the pumps’ a bit of research would suggest that that statement is about true considering that all the main companies pumps look pretty much the same.. anyway.. a quick trip to aliexpress and voila, you can buy said pumpages for half the price straight outta China.
It sounds like your freehub
It sounds like your freehub body or the cog/hub interface has worn out.
You’ll have to remove the cassette to see if that is the issue, suggest a trip to the bike shop to see what’s what and get new parts, which it sounds like you will need.
My LBS is happy to do this, a
My LBS is happy to do this, a lot of shops make their money on servicing and repairs now.
My LBS does have a Shimano Price Match deal in place which has proved handy though. I’d much rather get them to price match and buy through my LBS, often they are better on the ‘manpower costs’ for any work done when I do this.. so it’s win win.
I have two ‘carry along’ set
I have two ‘carry along’ set ups ref tubeless.
1) Normal local’ish distance stuff = 1x CO2 & inflator head, 1x Small bottle with about 20ml sealant in, 1x Value core remover.
2) Longer more self-sustained stuff = as above but, I’ll swap out the CO2 for a small pump and include 1x Set of tyre Worms.
One day I’ll get a dynaracer kit.. but for now the genuine innovations cheaper set of worms will do.
You can go to the nth degree
You can go to the nth degree with any of the sports you’ve mentioned, cylcing is no different.
For training, I’d say a HR monitor is probably the cheapest most useful thing you need.
If you buy a cycling computer, most will come with cadence and speed sensors..
HR, Cadence, Speed. That’s what most people will use.
If you’re okay flashing the cash then a PM will also help you monitor and measure yourself, best when used alongside the other sensors and not on it’s own… of course then you’ll need a training app as well to tell you what to do and where you’re at.. Training Peaks is good for that…
It all adds up… most people I ride with are happy enough with a HR monitor and strava.