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peted76
spiroX wrote:Those look good for light gravel and dry CX but how do they ride on tarmac, are they draggy? This setup will be 80% road, 20% light gravel if I feel like it. I’ll leave 650b setup for when I want to go gravel riding.No not very much, I mean yes as in they are draggier than a slick, actually, you could look at the G-One Speeds, they are not draggy (also tried/owned).
peted76
His Canyon Grail already has
His Canyon Grail already has discs, I presumed the OP is talking about swapping mechanical R8020 to R8070..
peted76
I’ve got some Schwable X-One
I’ve got some Schwable X-One Speeds.. they are plush and good enough for a bit of offroad in the dry.
peted76
I’d say go for it.
I’d say go for it.
I regret not spending the extra and getting Di2 on my Mason, if nothing else the hoods being smaller and the transformer sounds will make you happy.
peted76
I’d buy Lightbicycle (indeed
I’d buy Lightbicycle (indeed I almost did very recently) they are a well proven and longstanding brand, or Farsports. I’d be very hesitant about buying from any other far eastern brand.
If you wanted to buy rims closer to home, you could try:
to name but two..
peted76
@taity52 – in answer to your
@taity52 – in answer to your original question, just in case it wasn’t clear – yes the giant wheels you are getting will be perfectly fine for either clinchers or running them tubeless.
The only main difference is like you say replacing the tyres with normal clincher ones which you’ll be able to get on and off the rim easier.
If it’s a new bike you’re buying, just ask them not to add the sealant when they build it up, if it’s a LBS, they might even give you some cash for swapping the gavia’s out with another tyre.
peted76
I hear you kil0ran.. that
I hear you kil0ran.. that moment you realise you’ve been doing it wrong for ages… 🙂 I’ve brought ‘that type’ of overshoe ever since I had the same ‘awakening’.
@cougie – prepare to have your mind blown… https://youtu.be/aiPbsRKUCn8
Thinking about getting some spatz this year, I’ve heard good things.
peted76
There’s a few places on our
There’s a few places on our local routes which get muddy at this time of year, certainly you need to be a bit more careful, but it’s the countryside, it’s autumn (a very wet autumn) and tractors go in and out of fields. No sense getting het up about it, it’ll rain and all will be right again soon enough.
peted76
Would be interesting to see
Would be interesting to see what it looks life from the inside,
Cyclingbeastmode nailed this I think.
peted76
LOL seems reasonable
LOL seems reasonable 🙂
peted76
@viktorapo
@viktorapo
New to cycling and sore knees.
The ‘problem’ could be anything.
1st thing I’d look at is a bike fit, spend more than £80 and get a proper one which looks at your cleats too. Look here to find your nearest one https://ibfi-certification.com/find-a-fitter
Also you say you want to ride more and feel less sore/knackered, if your muscular sore and not ligament/joint sore.. then you’re simply overdoing it and yes you can mitigate this somewhat, protein is probably the main supplement, but also stretching post workout and rolling/massages will also help.
However, saying that, one of the issues with riding hard and pushing yourself is recovery, there are a gazillion books and papers written on this. One of the ‘takeaway points’ of this is that training easy allows you to ride seven days a week as opposed to riding hard and needing recovery days and that it’s more efficient training to train easy than have to take time off to recover. It’s a massive topic that a lot of people will have other ideas on, but my point is that if you simply might not be giving your body a chance to recover and adapt.
peted76
Never heard of it, but it’s a
Never heard of it, but it’s a decent idea.. sounds a bit like air b’n’b for bikes.
peted76
Follow what Jim says above,
Follow what Jim says above, he’s got it right, apart from the two loud bangs, that doesn’t always happen or need to happen, In my experience, it happens maybe 75-80% of the time. Over inflate them to seat the beads. Also I use about 30ml sealant on 23/25mm tyres and check the level now and again.
FWIW I had a ‘wonderful’ and unexpected tubeless experience with some DTSwiss wheels and schwable tyres the other day.. they went on easily (nice!) I didn’t use a tyre lever for one, inflated with a track pump first time. It was (tu)bliss! (no bangs on either wheel, a perfect fitting)
peted76
No, you don’t have a problem.
No, you don’t have a problem.
September 13, 2019 at 10:33 am in reply to: Advice: Best Approach for a Skinny, Underpowered Rider #949789
peted76
Aero will probably get you
Aero will probably get you the best ‘speed’ gains..It’ll be more beneficial the faster you go, you should believe the hype, however you don’t need to by an aero bike to make aero gains, the bike is only a small part of the aero puzzle.
Position on the bike should be the first place to look, baggy clothing, helmet, deeper section wheels..
Of course none of the above will change the fact that stronger legs/heart/core/flexibility are really what it’s all about. Depends on how serious about it you want to get.
Still enough about that.. you’re buying a new bike! Go and demo some! I’m a fan of Giant bikes because you get a lot of bang for your buck and I have a local dealer/shop who I can go to. Take a trip to your local bike shop and see what they have, all brands have great bikes at your budget you’re spoiled for choice!
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