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Always wash your rims with
Always wash your rims with water and dry after riding in the rain.For periodic service:
1. Use vinegar to clean your rims, it gets off huge amounts of gunk, and leaves the rim shiny but also ever so slightly etched to give a good braking surface.
2. Take the pads out and pry out any tiny bits of aluminium or other debris. Sand lightly with a nail file to get a fresh surface.
That works wonders for my Ultegra brakes, strong performance restored.
I have an Ultimate AL, it’s
I have an Ultimate AL, it’s amazing, the more you push it the better it is. Unbelievably stiff in the BB area while still comfortable on long rides. 75 miles in last time I forgot and thought I was riding my Bianchi Infinito, so smooth is it at speed. The Boardman Team is a great bike by all reports, I suggest you try out a Canyon somehow, so you can compare.
Chocolate coated hard nougat,
Chocolate coated hard nougat, has milk, almonds, chocolate and sugar. Get a big long bar and chop it into manageable chunks. Absolutely delicious!But mostly I don’t eat much, just zero cal electrolyte drinks and carry a couple of bars that I don’t mostly eat, a gel in case a big hill suddenly appears at the end that I often need, and a protein recovery something to eat on the train home.
Dare I say it, Bikeradar’s
Dare I say it, Bikeradar’s classifieds are good too, you need to set a fixed price though.
I had an SL pro carbon, nice
I had an SL pro carbon, nice and light, cheap and cheerful, a bit vague steering at speed and a bit flexy around the bottom bracket, but a great first carbon bike at a price that’s hard to beat.
You can find Fulcrum rims on
You can find Fulcrum rims on Ebay if you set the search area to “Europe” but they cost about £100, might be better with a new wheel and recoup the cost by selling spokes / hub individually as spares.You may also be able to sell the damaged wheel on Ebay in which case you need to make clear that it’s for parts not use.
That’s odd, I could have
That’s odd, I could have sworn I saw an Ultegra 6800 52-36 crank option somewhere. Must be imagining it! :/
Every current Shimano
Every current Shimano 10-speed system is compatible with every other. So you can use cheaper wearing parts (cassettes, chains, chain rings) and splurge on the shifters, front and rear derailleurs etc.AFAIK you can’t do mix and match crank parts with Campy.
That said, I’m leaning to a Super Record gruppo on my next Bianchi. It’s just the ‘super’ name. And it’s lighter than DA. And both bike and frame will be Italian. I have Ultegra on the current one, it’s fine and works well, but…
I think you might start a philosophical conflict putting Campag on an American frame 😉 Surely it needs SRAM.
DHB – Wiggle’s home brand –
DHB – Wiggle’s home brand – is generally all you need.Pearl Izumi, half owned by Shimano, is lovely quality too and looks a little more distinctive.
Also if you want the higher end of mid-range, don’t overlook Craft, a Swedish brand that understands waterproofing a breathability.
I’ve never used them, but try
I’ve never used them, but try these:http://www.owayo.com/cycling-custom-jerseys.htm
http://www.cycle-clothing.co.uk/Content/5/custom-design-cycle-jersey-top-printing.aspx
+1 for the Canyon. Absolutely
+1 for the Canyon. Absolutely no problems with mine. Superb aluminium bike!
+1 for the Competitive
+1 for the Competitive Cyclist fit calculator – millimetre perfect for me.Remember, top tube effective length is the most important measurement and the hardest to change.
Three, a carbon ‘best bike’,
Three, a carbon ‘best bike’, an aluminium ‘everyday and winter’ bike, and my original 40 year old last year Raleigh Record. Oh, and the carbon step-through women’s bike I built my other half as compensation 😉
Two rejections in a row…
Two rejections in a row… :”(
Don’t overlook the Canyon
Don’t overlook the Canyon Roadlite:http://www.canyon.com/_en/roadbikes/bike.html?b=3191
Under your budget and from a top manufacturer? Well reviewed in these hallowed pages:
http://road.cc/content/news/93367-canyon-roadlite-al-70-2014-eurobike-first-ride
One tip: the most important thing with frame size is the effective top tube length. Not the nominal frame size which is often the seat tube height. You can always put the seat down, but if the top tube is too long, you are stuck with a too-big frame (speaking as one who made this mistake once).
Competitive Cyclist has a good online fit calculator, that works for me:
http://www.competitivecyclist.com/Store/catalog/fitCalculatorBike.jsp
Happy cycling!