matthewn5

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Viewing 15 replies - 766 through 780 (of 830 total)
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  • in reply to: Why don’t you see Pro’s eating bananas? #726755
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    matthewn5

    Chocolate coated hard nougat,
    Chocolate coated hard nougat, has milk, almonds, chocolate and sugar. Get a big long bar and chop it into manageable chunks. Absolutely delicious!

    But mostly I don’t eat much, just zero cal electrolyte drinks and carry a couple of bars that I don’t mostly eat, a gel in case a big hill suddenly appears at the end that I often need, and a protein recovery something to eat on the train home.

    in reply to: Advice on what price to sell a bike for #781981
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    matthewn5

    Dare I say it, Bikeradar’s
    Dare I say it, Bikeradar’s classifieds are good too, you need to set a fixed price though.

    in reply to: Planet X #780959
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    matthewn5

    I had an SL pro carbon, nice
    I had an SL pro carbon, nice and light, cheap and cheerful, a bit vague steering at speed and a bit flexy around the bottom bracket, but a great first carbon bike at a price that’s hard to beat.

    in reply to: Fulcrum 5 Rim Repair #780597
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    matthewn5

    You can find Fulcrum rims on
    You can find Fulcrum rims on Ebay if you set the search area to “Europe” but they cost about £100, might be better with a new wheel and recoup the cost by selling spokes / hub individually as spares.

    You may also be able to sell the damaged wheel on Ebay in which case you need to make clear that it’s for parts not use.

    in reply to: Shimano 52/36 10 speed chainrings #779809
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    matthewn5

    That’s odd, I could have
    That’s odd, I could have sworn I saw an Ultegra 6800 52-36 crank option somewhere. Must be imagining it! :/

    matthewn5

    Every current Shimano
    Every current Shimano 10-speed system is compatible with every other. So you can use cheaper wearing parts (cassettes, chains, chain rings) and splurge on the shifters, front and rear derailleurs etc.

    AFAIK you can’t do mix and match crank parts with Campy.

    That said, I’m leaning to a Super Record gruppo on my next Bianchi. It’s just the ‘super’ name. And it’s lighter than DA. And both bike and frame will be Italian. I have Ultegra on the current one, it’s fine and works well, but…

    I think you might start a philosophical conflict putting Campag on an American frame 😉 Surely it needs SRAM.

    in reply to: Good quality mid-range cycle wear? #777111
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    matthewn5

    DHB – Wiggle’s home brand –
    DHB – Wiggle’s home brand – is generally all you need.

    Pearl Izumi, half owned by Shimano, is lovely quality too and looks a little more distinctive.

    Also if you want the higher end of mid-range, don’t overlook Craft, a Swedish brand that understands waterproofing a breathability.

    matthewn5
    in reply to: Advice on new bike or just upgrading my current one #758009
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    matthewn5

    +1 for the Canyon. Absolutely
    +1 for the Canyon. Absolutely no problems with mine. Superb aluminium bike!

    in reply to: Overlapping frame sizes – go larger or smaller? #775389
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    matthewn5

    +1 for the Competitive
    +1 for the Competitive Cyclist fit calculator – millimetre perfect for me.

    Remember, top tube effective length is the most important measurement and the hardest to change.

    in reply to: When’s too many bikes enough ? #772435
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    matthewn5

    Three, a carbon ‘best bike’,
    Three, a carbon ‘best bike’, an aluminium ‘everyday and winter’ bike, and my original 40 year old last year Raleigh Record. Oh, and the carbon step-through women’s bike I built my other half as compensation 😉

    in reply to: Ride London Ballot Results #771711
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    matthewn5

    Two rejections in a row…
    Two rejections in a row… :”(

    in reply to: First road bike for about £1k #772111
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    matthewn5

    Don’t overlook the Canyon
    Don’t overlook the Canyon Roadlite:

    http://www.canyon.com/_en/roadbikes/bike.html?b=3191

    Under your budget and from a top manufacturer? Well reviewed in these hallowed pages:

    http://road.cc/content/news/93367-canyon-roadlite-al-70-2014-eurobike-first-ride

    One tip: the most important thing with frame size is the effective top tube length. Not the nominal frame size which is often the seat tube height. You can always put the seat down, but if the top tube is too long, you are stuck with a too-big frame (speaking as one who made this mistake once).

    Competitive Cyclist has a good online fit calculator, that works for me:

    http://www.competitivecyclist.com/Store/catalog/fitCalculatorBike.jsp

    Happy cycling!

    in reply to: Punctured inner tubes, proper repair? #772283
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    matthewn5

    Patches and glue? Old
    Patches and glue? Old fashioned? Luxury!

    In my day, we have a kit with a little clamp, and patches backed with metal and a burnable substance, which you lit and let them melt the patch on. Those repairs lasted for ever.

    +1 for nitrile gloves – especially if you have white bar tape. B-)

    Also in kit: Spare derailleur hanger.

    in reply to: Beginner’s advice on pedals & shoes? #771117
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    matthewn5

    I use Shimano RT82s (about
    I use Shimano RT82s (about £80) which look like road shoes from the top with a ratchet strap and all, but have a recessed SPD cleat space on the bottom. They’re not too heavy, 650g. I’ve got carbon Look Quartz pedals that I got on eBay for a song and can’t imagine needing anything more.

    The pedals are about 110g each so v. light and the cleats about 20g so it adds up to a very light system. I can walk all I want (just getting down the dodgy front steps here would be a nightmare with SPD-SLs) and there’s plenty of float and a good solid connection. Nobody on the road has commented on my shoes, ever, so I’m happy!

    Yes, it’s violating one of the Rules but hey.

Viewing 15 replies - 766 through 780 (of 830 total)