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matthewn5
Chocolate coated hard nougat,
Chocolate coated hard nougat, has milk, almonds, chocolate and sugar. Get a big long bar and chop it into manageable chunks. Absolutely delicious!But mostly I don’t eat much, just zero cal electrolyte drinks and carry a couple of bars that I don’t mostly eat, a gel in case a big hill suddenly appears at the end that I often need, and a protein recovery something to eat on the train home.
matthewn5
Dare I say it, Bikeradar’s
Dare I say it, Bikeradar’s classifieds are good too, you need to set a fixed price though.
matthewn5
I had an SL pro carbon, nice
I had an SL pro carbon, nice and light, cheap and cheerful, a bit vague steering at speed and a bit flexy around the bottom bracket, but a great first carbon bike at a price that’s hard to beat.
matthewn5
You can find Fulcrum rims on
You can find Fulcrum rims on Ebay if you set the search area to “Europe” but they cost about £100, might be better with a new wheel and recoup the cost by selling spokes / hub individually as spares.You may also be able to sell the damaged wheel on Ebay in which case you need to make clear that it’s for parts not use.
matthewn5
That’s odd, I could have
That’s odd, I could have sworn I saw an Ultegra 6800 52-36 crank option somewhere. Must be imagining it! :/February 28, 2014 at 10:31 pm in reply to: Advice – Shimano Ultegra 6800 Groupset vs Campagnolo Athena Carbon Groupset #777347
matthewn5
Every current Shimano
Every current Shimano 10-speed system is compatible with every other. So you can use cheaper wearing parts (cassettes, chains, chain rings) and splurge on the shifters, front and rear derailleurs etc.AFAIK you can’t do mix and match crank parts with Campy.
That said, I’m leaning to a Super Record gruppo on my next Bianchi. It’s just the ‘super’ name. And it’s lighter than DA. And both bike and frame will be Italian. I have Ultegra on the current one, it’s fine and works well, but…
I think you might start a philosophical conflict putting Campag on an American frame 😉 Surely it needs SRAM.
matthewn5
DHB – Wiggle’s home brand –
DHB – Wiggle’s home brand – is generally all you need.Pearl Izumi, half owned by Shimano, is lovely quality too and looks a little more distinctive.
Also if you want the higher end of mid-range, don’t overlook Craft, a Swedish brand that understands waterproofing a breathability.
February 24, 2014 at 9:49 pm in reply to: Recommendations for *cheap* custom cycling jerseys (ordering about 10) #776781
matthewn5
I’ve never used them, but try
I’ve never used them, but try these:http://www.owayo.com/cycling-custom-jerseys.htm
http://www.cycle-clothing.co.uk/Content/5/custom-design-cycle-jersey-top-printing.aspx
February 22, 2014 at 10:41 pm in reply to: Advice on new bike or just upgrading my current one #758009
matthewn5
+1 for the Canyon. Absolutely
+1 for the Canyon. Absolutely no problems with mine. Superb aluminium bike!
matthewn5
+1 for the Competitive
+1 for the Competitive Cyclist fit calculator – millimetre perfect for me.Remember, top tube effective length is the most important measurement and the hardest to change.
matthewn5
Three, a carbon ‘best bike’,
Three, a carbon ‘best bike’, an aluminium ‘everyday and winter’ bike, and my original 40 year old last year Raleigh Record. Oh, and the carbon step-through women’s bike I built my other half as compensation 😉
matthewn5
Two rejections in a row…
Two rejections in a row… :”(
matthewn5
Don’t overlook the Canyon
Don’t overlook the Canyon Roadlite:http://www.canyon.com/_en/roadbikes/bike.html?b=3191
Under your budget and from a top manufacturer? Well reviewed in these hallowed pages:
http://road.cc/content/news/93367-canyon-roadlite-al-70-2014-eurobike-first-ride
One tip: the most important thing with frame size is the effective top tube length. Not the nominal frame size which is often the seat tube height. You can always put the seat down, but if the top tube is too long, you are stuck with a too-big frame (speaking as one who made this mistake once).
Competitive Cyclist has a good online fit calculator, that works for me:
http://www.competitivecyclist.com/Store/catalog/fitCalculatorBike.jsp
Happy cycling!
matthewn5
Patches and glue? Old
Patches and glue? Old fashioned? Luxury!In my day, we have a kit with a little clamp, and patches backed with metal and a burnable substance, which you lit and let them melt the patch on. Those repairs lasted for ever.
+1 for nitrile gloves – especially if you have white bar tape. B-)
Also in kit: Spare derailleur hanger.
matthewn5
I use Shimano RT82s (about
I use Shimano RT82s (about £80) which look like road shoes from the top with a ratchet strap and all, but have a recessed SPD cleat space on the bottom. They’re not too heavy, 650g. I’ve got carbon Look Quartz pedals that I got on eBay for a song and can’t imagine needing anything more.The pedals are about 110g each so v. light and the cleats about 20g so it adds up to a very light system. I can walk all I want (just getting down the dodgy front steps here would be a nightmare with SPD-SLs) and there’s plenty of float and a good solid connection. Nobody on the road has commented on my shoes, ever, so I’m happy!
Yes, it’s violating one of the Rules but hey.
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