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if you are cutting the steerer down to a mm below the top of the stemYou must leave at a short length of steerer to allow a thin spacer to sit above the top of the stem – it is simply not safe to cut the steerer lower than the top of the stem and can lead to sudden failures. If you’ve done what you suggest, you will have most likely voided any guarantee you had on the fork.
Same thing happened with my
Same thing happened with my friend’s Gatorskins, the ‘mesh’ layer started to disintegrated on one of them. Her bike shop advised her to replace it which she’s done.
Hi Alex, Ebay is good and you
Hi Alex, Ebay is good and you’ll reach the maximum number of people, but bear in mind you’ll lose 10% of the final value of the sale in fees, and 3.4% to PayPal, even if the listing is free. If you’re not a regular Ebayer with a high positive rating people will be suspicious. So in my view its better to sell elsewhere.
The cycling forums like BikeRadar or LFGSS and road.cc have sales threads, but do read each forum’s rules as they all have their foibles and will tell you off if you break their rules.
As for information, just take plenty of photos and include those and describe the bike as best you can. If you can find an original listing then as you say, copy that info, but I suspect you wont find 2013 models listed online anywhere now.
Good luck with the sale!
Same here. But we have
Same here. But we have rigorously separated finances.
Talk to your OH about why you love bikes, tell them why you want a new part, show them the bits you’re buying, ask for help deciding on texture/colour of bar tape, etc. My OH has no real interest in bikes per se, but loves the bike I built her, and is always excited and happy for me if I buy a new frame/groupset, etc. I ask her opinion on colour matching etc because she’s got a better eye for that than I have.
It can become a shared joy, as long as it doesn’t 1. bankrupt you, 2. stop you paying your share of the bills/mortgage etc, 3. fill up the living room with bikes
The old adage is that
The old adage is that expensive alloy is better than cheap carbon… cheap carbon is damp and smooth, but can lack the brilliantly exciting stiffness and directness you get from a good alloy frame. I’ve had a Cinelli Experience for the last 3 years, and with a carbon seatpost the ride is actually brilliant, sharp and direct handling and exciting when you get the speed up. Whereas the cheapo carbon Planet X I had a decade was just a soggy noodle. Maybe cheap carbon has got better!
Always worth taking bikes for a ride, find a friendly bike shop and test, test, test (to adopt a phrase).
I have the Bora One 50 C17
I have the Bora One 50 C17 clinchers and they’re utterly brilliant. Very stiff and responsive, and yet somehow don’t beat you up. Very classy and look the dogs bollocks on an Italian frame. One day you can convert your Aria to Campag and go the whole way 😉
I bought mine second hand in immaculate condition for £550 off one of the forums. Get the wheels you really want, not what people say you want.
Serious kudos for the paint
Serious kudos for the paint job!
It’s only worth getting the bike you want, in the long run.Best bit of advice anyone can give you.
I completely agree, at what
I completely agree, at what point did it become legal to block the public highway semi-permanently with private property? In my street, 40% of the width is blocked by parked cars, it’s reduced to a single lane. Cars are used on average just 4% of the time in the UK, so they’re parked up for 96% of the time. Japan requires you to own or rent an off-street car park before you can buy a car: time Britain adopted that rule too. We need all that space back for cycle tracks and social distancing. Drivists, you’ve had your fun for a century, this stops now.
+1 for David at DCR, he built
+1 for David at DCR, he built me a beautiful set of wheels using his own wide rims on a pair of Campag Record hubs I had sitting around laced up with CX-Ray spokes. Smooth as butter, laterally stiff and comfortable too. Like magic!
Good call, your eyes are
Good call, your eyes are clearly better than mine!
Also I feel tranmission is more relaxed in this situation and reduces wear & tear? Big/big which I do avoid puts a big strain on mech!Absolutely wrong. Big cogs wear much slower as the load from the chain is spread over more teeth. That’s why cassettes wear out much faster than chain rings. Big to big is far better for your bike than small-small. The rear mech is made to handle the extension, its only the springs that will be tighter.
But to go back to the original point, it’s an adjustment issue, I can use small-small on my Campag Super Record or Athena bikes, though it’s a bit noisier.
Although that looks a good
Although that looks a good job, I’d be wary of using it for long, since if it lets go, the results can be a crash.
You can get him a replacement Ultegra crankset pretty cheaply, in due course, or just a right hand crank. The model number of the complete crankset is FC-6600:
They sell complete for about £20-40 depending on condition, and it’s a doddle to remove the old one and put in a new one. You only need an allen key for the two bolts on the left crank, and a plastic tool to undo the plastic bolt that holds the left crank on.
Note that there’s a small plastic safety clip in the slot between the two bolts that needs to be removed before the crank will come off:
You can carry a folded tub
You can carry a folded tub under the seat, in the position you might have a saddle bag. Here’s how to fold it:
+1 for Campag Shamals, it’s
+1 for Campag Shamals, it’s the feel of really stiff wheels that’s so great. I’ve always bought them second hand and am running the latest C17 version with a 23mm tyre on the front without problems. You can really feel how good the bearings are when you put them on after the winter wheels.
But talk to David at DCR, he can build you something lighter and cheaper, and with your budget you could choose lovely light exotic hubs and come in at around the 1350g range without much difficulty.
