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N2 by any chance? Brilliant
N2 by any chance? Brilliant ride.
Theoretically you’ll only need to clear customs at entry and exit of first Schengen country (France) as there’ll be no borders between France, Spain and Portugal. Although this applies to people, once you’re in, you won’t see another customs gate until you leave the Schengen area. You could still get pulled over by the police for id check, or a vehicle check, but if you have an entry stamp you should be OK. Ref the documentation, I’d be inclined to seek detailed advice when you apply for the carnet, it’s not something you want to be arguing the toss about with French customs. If there’s 20 of you, the cost between you all should be reasonable. I think also I would consider getting a ferry to either Bilbao or Santander if I was doing this.
These are the shite articles
These are the shite articles that are made available so that the “journalists” in local papers can publish content without doing any work other than a quick copy/paste, and in return, the company generating the article gets an inbound link. The Newquest titles are full of them.
EDIT: we have a winner…
All of those are perfectly
All of those options you suggest are perfectly adequate if you’re only considering bandwidth from your local devices to the internet – in that case the internet connection is the bottleneck. However if you’re moving stuff around between devices, then the internal bandwidth matters of course, and then it would make sense to try and get a faster internal wifi speed.
I changed to WFH in 2020 and sometimes need to copy large files, images, databases, etc locally between computers (not so much a problem at my main desk as most things are plugged into a switch, but away from my desk it’s wifi), and this improved massively once I took out a couple of ancient Apple Airport Extremes connected to each other between upstairs/downstairs via Powerline plugs and replaced with Netgear Orbi (1x router RBS50 plus 2x satellites RBR50 to cover upstairs, downstairs and garden log cabin). Tri-band so 5GHz and 2.4GHz for client devices and a dedicated 5GHz channel connecting the satelllites & router.
Would they need pacing
Would they need pacing stickers by any chance?
It doesn’t appear that they
It doesn’t appear that they’re officially compatible according to the chart.
Bore off.
Bore off.
Stopped reading at “AI”
Stopped reading at “AI”
I see they have the variable
I see they have the variable indexing and customisable pull ratio. Controlled by supercomputer.
Obviously so keen to create a
Obviously so keen to create a link to a site selling pacing stickers, you forgot to mention about including a bike in the recommended equipment list.
No, sorry I meant the OP may
No, sorry I meant the OP may not want the bike for commuting.
The OP may not require it for
The OP may not require it for commuting.
ug not mgµg not ug
Assuming you’re looking at a
Assuming you’re looking at a road bike…
I think in terms of getting the most for that kind of budget, I’d look at something like this:
https://www.boardmanbikes.com/gb_en/products/2369-slr-8.9-carbon-disc-2021.html
Somebody I know has this exact model and it’s a lot of bike for the money.Spending slightly less, have a look at the Triban models from Decathlon, again, great value https://www.decathlon.co.uk/p/road-bike-rc-520-disc-brake-shimano-105-prowheel-blue/_/R-p-348230 I have no personal experience of this but these are consistently well reviewed. It would also allow some spare budget for pedals, shoes, shorts, GPS, etc.
Once upon a time, the £1500-2000 range was the sweet spot for many of the larger brands such as Specialized, Trek, Cannondale, however unfortunately their midrange stuff has moved further up the budget range, for example, the entry level Roubaix from Specialized is now £3500. Giant could be worth a look, but I’ll defer to someone else with knowledge of the range to jump in.
Do you have access to a workplace cycle to work scheme? If you do and you’re able to use it, it can make acquiring a new bike a little lighter on the wallet.
1. Bring back the man with the red flag / orange tabbard2. Bounce any cars blocking the tracks out of the way – flipping them seems pretty easy
That’s Weymouth Quay, the train going from the station to the ferry terminal along the harbour side was part of my childhood, and remember cars being bumped out of the way. It was always holidaymakers, not seeing the tracks or the signs. The other danger there for parking is the flooding, the road under the town bridge is low enough to allow a train under, which means it floods at spring tide. Many a car would float away while the owner enjoyed a pint in the Royal Oak.
The last train ran back the late 90s, while the ferry terminal was closed in 2015, and demolished in 2019.
Finally, the tracks were taken up and the quayside redeveloped in 2022. Lots of people moaned about the tracks going, but the reality was, Network Rail had no intention of running rolling stock ever again, the sleepers were knackered, and eventually they went. The red light signal had been illuminated since 1987 in King Street was taken away (bonkers waste of electricity but the road was classified as part of the mainline by Network Rail so needed to have railway signalling).
What’s this got to do with cycling? Well for many years the railway lines in King Street, Commercial Road and the quayside meant riding down there was taking your life in your hands, and their removal last year was/is very popular amongst cyclists and motorcyclists.
Couple of questions, is this
Couple of questions, is this the front or rear derailleur, and is it 11 or 12 speed?
If rear derailleur and 11 speed, it’s possible the H limit screw is not set correctly. This would mean the shift is not completing and sending back an error, and then the shift backs out again. On Di2, you do this last as opposed to first as with cable shift. You’ll need to place it in micro-adjust mode. Put the rear in the smallest cog, and then change up to 5th. Hold down the junction box button, LED will go red. While turning the crank, use the RH shifter to move the rear mech (fractions of a mm at a time) closer to 4th, until it starts making a noise. Then tap it back down 2-3 times, it should be quiet. Hold down junction button until LED goes out. Now move the mech to the biggest cog, and then wind off the H screw until it is *just* touching the mech stopper. Move the mech down to 11th and repeat for the L screw. It’s important that the screw is only just in contact, enough to stop the chain from falling off, but any tighter and you can have battery drainage because the system will stay awake as it thinks it’s not finished the shift.
The above should sort out most Di2 rear shifting issues, and it goes without saying that it’s easier in a workstand and probably worth checking the mech hanger alignment first. Also to reiterate, above is for 11 speed, I don’t have experience of the newer 12 speed, but I would imagine the adjustment process is similar, the adjustment mode selection will be different as there’s no junction box.
Or ignore all of above and take it to a bike shop, if it’s a new bike that was bought online, it may benefit from a once over to check everything is up together. This may cost a few £££ but would be worth it for peace of mind. My LBS charges £60 for unboxing, building, setting up and safety-checking of bikes bought online elsewhere.