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mark1a
I’ve just had another thought
I’ve just had another thought after connecting up one of my bikes…
The app has been updated at some point (I hardly ever use the app, I would never do firmware updates over the air, cable only and my main reason for using D-Fly is head unit communication).
Obviously when connected, the system is unresponsive, probably in some kind of maintenance mode. There’s a big “DISCONNECT” button in the app now – are you pressing “DISCONNECT” or just quitting the app? I wonder if the latter, the system is not waking up again and still thinks it’s connected.

mark1a
You can get away with it, one
You can get away with it, one of my bikes has fully hidden cables, and the D-Fly unit is inside the carbon handlebars. Communicates with both the head unit and phone OK, the distances are very small of course. However I agree with you, if possible the ideal position would be external.
mark1a
When you paired the phone,
When you paired the phone, did you change the Bluetooth pass key when prompted? If so, this can cause problems if still using the original pairing.
I think I would try this:
- close and completely quit the phone app
- delete the Di2 device from your phone Bluetooth pairing list
- connect a PC with a cable and E-TUBE software
- change the Bluetooth pass key from default 000000 to something else
- while plugged in, make sure all components have latest firmware
- disconnect PC
- remake the phone Bluetooth pairing and try again with the phone app
All assuming that your Di2 install is similar/compatible series, for example 67xx front mech won’t work with 68xx or 80xx if on latest firmware, and that you have a compatible battery DN100 or DN110, and you also don’t have any signal issues if the wireless unit is inside the frame.
Good luck!
March 14, 2022 at 12:15 pm in reply to: Car crashes into building – please post your Local news stories #965213
mark1a
No licence, no insurance,
No licence, no insurance, using phone, possible alcohol, fled scene, etc.
Still, at least the punishment was proportionate and appropriate. Oh wait a minute…
https://www.dorsetecho.co.uk/news/19990164.uninsured-driver-fled-serious-crash-north-dorset/
mark1a
Have you tried calling
Have you tried calling/emailing Specialized UK Rider Care? They will mostly likely have stock visibility across their larger retailers, some of the stock carried by them is funded and owned by Specialized until sold.
As it happens I have a S-Works Roubaix Team, it’s longer and lower than a standard Roubaix, feels like a more compliant Tarmac. I guess you want the taller headtube though.
mark1a
Further analysis available,
Further analysis available, regarding number of concurrent vehicles, pass time, approach speed, pass speed and slow-down amount.

mark1a
Next, you can upload your
Next, you can upload your ride data to mybiketraffic.com and see exactly where each vehicle was that was behind you, their speed, and even animate the map to show passing places.

mark1a
First, there’s a configurable
First, there’s a configurable data field from the Connect IQ app store that can display vehicle count, and both absolute and relative vehicle speeds.

mark1a
I don’t think the groupset
I don’t think the groupset question is as silly as it sounds – a bike builder or decent bike shop could cold-set a steel frame to make the rear dropouts up to 130mm, and then with a correctly dished and hubbed rear wheel, could take an 11 speed groupset.
You see this kind of thing on the GCN Tech show “Nice or Supernice” feature, in the car world it’s known as a “restomod”. People want the aesthetic and feel of a bike they really wanted as a kid, or find desirable, but then also want it rideable (modern ratios) and stoppable (modern brakes).
I have a 1985 La Vie Claire Hinault 753R, which I restored with period-correct Campagnolo kit. It’s authentic so I can take it so Eroica but with the hills round where I live (Dorset) it’s not the most rideable bike ever, 53/42 – 14/24 gearing, 80s era brakes. If it wasn’t for the fact I wanted and needed an authentic restore, I would have happily gone with modern Campag. In fact if my next project happens, I’m looking for a similar era Raleigh Panasonic Team frame, and I’m very tempted to fit modern Shimano kit.
mark1a
I’m sure it’s the very yeast
I’m sure it’s the very yeast he could do.
mark1a
Couple of things worth a try:
Couple of things worth a try:
– make sure that any phone apps paired with it are unpaired, in case it’s being kept awake.
– soft reset it by flipping the battery round 180 degrees and re-insert for 5-10 seconds, and back again.
I have a few 4iiii power meters and on the whole they’re very reliable. I did have one issue where it was reading very high and wouldn’t calibrate, that battery tip was advised by 4iiii tech support and it did the trick.
mark1a
This is a replica of the 1985
This is a replica of the 1985/1986 La Vie Claire TdF winners, as ridden by Bernard Hinault & Greg LeMond. It’s a Reynolds 753R frame & fork, with most parts sourced either NOS or used/servicable. Equipped with modern brake pads & tyres however, and I am taking it to Eroica Britannia later this year, now it has returned.

mark1a
This is my S-Works Roubaix
This is my S-Works Roubaix Team. Effectively a Roubaix with the geometry of a Tarmac.

mark1a
Morning all, long time lurker
Morning all, long time lurker on this forum, here’s my S-Works Venge… photo taken before bikefit could be arranged, so saddle is a little high.

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