[KDee]

It’s my birthday soon and I’ve been asked what I’d like. I’m sure there are a few tools I could probably use (but haven’t yet), so let’s spend someone elses money! I have quite a few bits and pieces already:

• Workstand
• Floorpump
• Decent allen keys / screwdrivers / wrenches / cable cutters
• Split link tool
• Mini ratchet
• Torque wrench
• Chain whip
• Chain measuring tool
• Brake bleed kit
• Spoke keys
• Tubeless stuff (inc. Airshot, hose cutters, hose insert press, bleed kit)
• Shimano cassette and BB adapters
• Digital caliper
• Digital pressure gauge
• Ultrasonic bath

Anything obvious missing? Good bike has a press-fit BB so possibly a tool-set to switch that out soon (and maybe the headset too)? Perhaps a nice toolbox as most of the above is rattling about in a couple of small plastic boxes? I don’t think an air compressor is necessary…I haven’t been defeated by the floorpump and Airshot yet (plus, the office has a compressor in the bike garage!).

Are there any little handy things you swear by? Something like a chain-keeper for when the rear wheel is out of the bike? Internal cable/hose routing kit?

Or maybe just a voucher as I think I will need new pads and rotors for the race bike at the end of summer.

Topic

[Woldsman]

matthewn5 wrote:

Matthew Acton-Varian wrote:

You can do it without an alignment tool, however the chances of getting it perfectly repositioned to the last micron is near impossible. It takes guesswork, trial and error, and a lot of refitting and removing your mech.

I’ve done it with some flat faced pliers and about an hour of fettling. Yes, the cost (£120 appox Park Tool) hangar tool would have saved me most of that time but I couldn’t afford it at the time. And I know there are cheaper ones, but for such a fiddly job are they really up to the task?

I paid £49 for my Park DAG2 – Derailleur Hanger Alignment Gauge in 2013, so that’s pretty steep 🙁

You could probably do it with a straight edge, to be fair, but the alignment jig makes it easy.

Your DAG2 isn’t too dissimilar to my DAG2.2 (about £60 when I bought mine), but the latest – the DAG3 – is quite different.  It looks more like the offerings from Abbey Bike Tools or Unior’s ‘hanger genie’ etc. The DAG2.2 can still be had for around £65.  

[mark1a]

The DAG2.2 is £65 at Sigma

The DAG2.2 is £65 at Sigma and Wiggle at the moment, the £120 model available is the latest DAG3. The Lifeline Pro (Wiggle/CRC own brand) can be had for £40. 

[Woldsman]

I don’t have any pressfit or

I don’t have any pressfit or headset tools, but I think it’s worth having a hanger alignment tool – mine’s an older Park Tool one.  I’ve used it quite a bit and I’d recommend it. A tool I wouldn’t bother to replace is the dummy pedal; I could manage without.  

Abbey Bike Tools offer all of the above – at eye watering prices – but the only items from their range that I have – a birthday present – is their Crombie tool and chain whip.  They’re nice to use and fit neatly in my tool roll.

If you don’t care for tool rolls have a look at #ToolBoxWars over on Instagram.  Lots of pricey toolbox options often using cutout foam of the sort at the top of my photo.  I haven’t got round to cutting out any more levels, so once more I’m not sure that’s something else I’d spend money on again (mine is called ‘Shadow Foam’).

Pictured is a chain keeper, although with thru axles you’d need a different type.  And if you don’t have a rim brake bike or cross head fasteners as your derailleurs’ limit screws you wont need a Iwanson gauge to measure rim wear or a JIS screwdriver for those limit screws.

Instead you might buy some slightly boutique Allen keys such as these from PB Swiss to add to your collection.  (I’m not sure the Beta 951 sliding T wrenches justify their price tag though, but the Italian company’s grease gun is a pleasure to use.)

Some decent spanners – here for Shimano SPD-SL pedal maintenance – and a Rohloff sprocket wear measure thingy round off my suggested tools.  I also have a 250mm Knipex pliers wrench (and their bolt croppers for mudguard stays),  not pictured as I’ve put all my toys away now, which is nice to have if someone else is paying.  

 

 

[matthewn5]

Matthew Acton-Varian wrote:

You can do it without an alignment tool, however the chances of getting it perfectly repositioned to the last micron is near impossible. It takes guesswork, trial and error, and a lot of refitting and removing your mech.

I’ve done it with some flat faced pliers and about an hour of fettling. Yes, the cost (£120 appox Park Tool) hangar tool would have saved me most of that time but I couldn’t afford it at the time. And I know there are cheaper ones, but for such a fiddly job are they really up to the task?

I paid £49 for my Park DAG2 – Derailleur Hanger Alignment Gauge in 2013, so that’s pretty steep 🙁

You could probably do it with a straight edge, to be fair, but the alignment jig makes it easy.

[Matthew Acton-Varian]

matthewn5 wrote:

KDee wrote:

Hanger alignment tool. Maybe a little too niche. I did drop my bike and bend the hanger…but got it back OK with the big adjustables.

 

You can’t possible accurately align the derailleur hanger without a derailleur alignment tool. Seriously. We’re talking about 1 or 2 degrees out of alignment, you can’t see that. And they’re not expensive. And you were asking for recommendations 🙂

You can do it without an alignment tool, however the chances of getting it perfectly repositioned to the last micron is near impossible. It takes guesswork, trial and error, and a lot of refitting and removing your mech.

I’ve done it with some flat faced pliers and about an hour of fettling. Yes, the cost (£120 appox Park Tool) hangar tool would have saved me most of that time but I couldn’t afford it at the time. And I know there are cheaper ones, but for such a fiddly job are they really up to the task?

[Matthew Acton-Varian]

Replacement freehubs are

Replacement freehubs are easily available for most mid-range to high end wheels/hubs. No need to rebuild (providing you can remove the original freehub and the cassette is not jammed)

[Matthew Acton-Varian]

The torque is high enough

The torque is high enough that grease should not be a problem. However if you are still concerned you can use a low strength thread lock compound. The medium and high stuff is overkill, and you will need quote a lot of force to break the bonds.

[wtjs]

You can’t possible accurately

You can’t possible accurately align the derailleur hanger without a derailleur alignment tool

An alternative is to go down-market to the less finicky 9-speed Sora. Beautiful shifting- mech got a bash on the Pennine Bridleway and I bent it back by eye. When the cables are good, it’s excellent and seems rather better than the Ultegra 9-speed (although that’s 22 years old now)

[hawkinspeter]

KDee wrote:

Here’s a question. My race bike has thru-axles. The rear in particular feels like it is seizing against the frame (carbon). Use a dab of carbon grease (not gripper paste) where the head of the thru-axle contacts the frame?

I wouldn’t bother. It could well be the paint/finish slightly sticking, but the torque used on a thru-axle should easily persuade the two to part and I doubt that it would lead to any noticeable damage. Also, thru-axles are typically undone relatively frequently to change tyres or give the wheels a good clean so there’s less chance of the CF seizing like with a seatpost. I can’t see a dab of grease there causing any harm, though.

[KDee]

Here’s a question. My race

Here’s a question. My race bike has thru-axles. The rear in particular feels like it is seizing against the frame (carbon). Use a dab of carbon grease (not gripper paste) where the head of the thru-axle contacts the frame?

[KDee]

I just had a quick look

I just had a quick look online. They start at about 35 euros. Not bad! Thought they were more expensive. More likely that my nice commuter bike will need that if someone knocks it over/slams their Dutch bike into it. I’ll add one to the list!

[matthewn5]

KDee wrote:

Hanger alignment tool. Maybe a little too niche. I did drop my bike and bend the hanger…but got it back OK with the big adjustables.

 

You can’t possible accurately align the derailleur hanger without a derailleur alignment tool. Seriously. We’re talking about 1 or 2 degrees out of alignment, you can’t see that. And they’re not expensive. And you were asking for recommendations 🙂

[hawkinspeter]

Geoff Ingram wrote:

I always thought copaslip was for high temperature applications. Ordinary grease, perhaps lithium based for water resistance in UK, should be fine.

If it’s meant to move, then use grease. If it’s not meant to move, then use copaslip. (If it’s carbon fibre then use assembly paste – I’ve heard it can absorb grease and swell which is not great for seatposts).

[Geoff Ingram]

I always thought copaslip was

I always thought copaslip was for high temperature applications. Ordinary grease, perhaps lithium based for water resistance in UK, should be fine.

[Geoff Ingram]

When trueing a wheel I always

When trueing a wheel I always go by simply by eliminating the wobble. And sound. Pluck the spoke. If the note is too high, slacken off a touch opposing spokes. Too low, tighten up, and see if it reduces lateral deviation. Go slowly, and it seems to work for me. And is simple enough for me to understand…

 

[Author]

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