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Have these been mentioned?
Copper-based anti-seize stuff (spray or grease).
A spoke tension measuring device
A wheel bearing extraction & instalation kit.
I use a copper anti-seize spray on things like pedal threads or anything else that might see spontaneous metal-gluing i’ the threads but haven’t got a spoke tension measurer or the wheel bearing tools. However ….
I do true wheels (without anything but a spoke key and a temporary summick stuck to the fork or seat stay as a guide) if they show a wobble or if I ever snap a spoke (only three snaps in 64 years cycling, mind – yet all relatively recently). Would a spoke tension measuring device help to avoid flop-wheel or a potential snapper-spoke? I have a suspicion that one pair of inexpensive wheels I have (came with the bike) are not really tight enough in their spoke tensions.
All the wheels I have now use press-fit bearings of various sizes. I even have some spare bearing sets (for Hunt wheels, as they came with one of their “offers”). But so far there seems no sign of wobble, drag or graunch to justify changing any wheel bearings. Surely, though, the time will come?
Has anyone found a wheel bearing kit (for both extraction and press-in) that doesn’t cost well north of £100? I often wish I had a metal-working lathe as it can’t be hard to turn the pressing parts to use for bearing extraction & installation with a length of standard M8 threaded rod and a few M8 nuts.
Copper based grease is a good call – I’m not so keen on a spray version as you typically only want to use a tiny amount in a specific place.
REMINDER – if you’ve got crappy Shimano cheese-head retaining pad pins on your brakes, then check that they haven’t fully seized. (That’s one place where a tiny bit of coppaslip can be helpful)
I’ve got a spoke tensionometer but found it a pain to use when building/truing a wheel, so I just go by feel rather than muck around with it. The problem that I had is that you can end up focussing on trying to get the tensions equal, but often there’s differences in manufacturing tolerances which mean that there’ll be slightly different spoke tensions required to keep the wheel trued.
One of the stipulations of the first major housing development/expansion here was the inlcusion of a dedicated busway linking the development to the two major towns to the east/west. Additional developments have by and large been linked into this, with Amazon building a distribution depot in the area this also was linked and has added the benifit of expaning the service to run 24/7.The issue isn’t “designing towns around the motor car” The issue is that MANY towns and villages in rural, or even as here, urban areas that were designed before the motor car do not have access to public transport in this way and never really have. Towns and villages like this close by were not integated into the new busway and services have actually reduced. Where my parents live in terms of its access has not changed in decades or really even a century or so, but you cannot get a bus there late. The last bus from their nearst train station is 19:28 (weekday).
These issues, and asinine memes are only black and white when you don’t want to look objectively at the bigger picture.
I think a large part of declining public transport is that it’s often run for-profit and it’s not seen as economical to run a lot of rural services. It’s a catch-22 situation as people learn that the public transport is crap/non-existent and so have to rely on getting a car. Once they’ve got a car, they’re going to use it in preference to public transport and so the services don’t see as much demand (and thus profit). The issue with designing housing developments is that they’re often too distant from the shops and services that people require and so they can no longer walk a mile to get to their local doctor surgery etc.
if they were LGBT rainbow ones. I’d consider my hex keys to be male/hetero as they only work properly with female socket bolts etc. but maybe they’re also LGBT allies.maybe they used to be a socket set, before being reforged.
Possibly, but makes little difference to me as long as they’ll still do their job with the female sockets. What’s more of a problem is when the size of male tools are exaggerated – all sizes are equally valid but certain jobs require certain sizes.
But the free hub can just be pulled off and swapped with a new (steel) one. Add a few grams but no more notches from the cassette. no need to build an entire wheel.Yes, but Cugel mentioned the possibility of stripping the centrelock side of the hub
End of summer the selant will need a refresh, so that could mak sense, Are they OK to use with Stan’s Race Sealant though? It has pretty obvious fibres in it which generally makes it unsuitable for injecting through a valve.Possibly not, though I’ve only used Caffelatex so don’t know
The email said: “We use a secluded ‘classroom’ area surrounded mostly by bushes and trees so we are removed from the main body of the Downs. Yesterday, a car began to drive into the classroom area while 29 five and six year olds were seated on the ground.”Two volunteers immediately approached the driver and asked him to back away, which he did, but then he parked on the trail which was about to be used by the children. The email said: “They asked him to move again and he refused and was very rude to them.”
The volunteers remained calm in order to defuse the situation, according to the email. It added that the children had been placed in ‘an extremely vulnerable position with a volatile person at the wheel of the car illegally on the Downs’.
I’ll add one to the list as it will make the routine check-and-top-up of sealant a little easier.You could add MilkIt valves to your list if you feel like changing your valves.
https://road.cc/content/review/176166-milkit-tubeless-valve-and-refill-kit
Pain along outside of foot. Will a bike fit fix it!?Here’s a couple of results from putting “site: road.cc foot pain” into google:
https://road.cc/content/forum/pain-outside-my-foot-280497
https://road.cc/content/forum/119918-right-foot-pain
https://road.cc/content/feature/how-important-foot-position-and-posture-cyclists-292331
You could try experimenting with changing your cleat positions to move your foot further outwards (or change where you position your foot if you have acoustic pedals). A bike fit is a good idea as they may well spot something that wouldn’t occur to you.
Suffice it to say that I’ve managed to strip one by doing the tight-as-I-can thing. I yam a big strong lad, see? Both the lock ring and the body had to be replaced as the threads on both got mangled.Not THAT hard.
Cassette freeehubs can be relatively easily replaced if damaged and aren’t ridiculously expensive unless they’re a proprietary design used by a-one o’ them £3000-a-set wheel purveyors. But imagine that you strip the threads on a centre-lock disc wheel hub ……Hubs aren’t too expensive to replace but it takes a bit of time rebuilding the wheel.
But haven’t found I’ve needed them so far. The new Vittoria Corsa NEXT tubeless tyres I have went on with my thumbs (I know…hero).
Come on HP…help me spend some money!! ?
I’ve very rarely managed to put on a tyre using just my thumbs, but those tyre pliers just make it so easy to push and pull around tyres.
Do you drive?. scenairo 1 – 15 cyclists in a line make any safe overtaking impossible for a couple of miles; scenario 2 – cyclists split in into 2 groups allowing for some safe overtaking earlier on – cyclists reach their destination at pretty much the same time. Bit surprised you needed me to explain this, think a child would get it.Seems contrived to me. Overtaking 8 cyclists is hardly much difference to overtaking 15 cyclists assuming you leave suitable space. Meanwhile, splitting 15 cyclists into 2 groups means that you’ve got two cyclists at the front which is a more tiring position to take along with reduced aerodynamics for the two groups. Logically, if two groups of cyclists are better than one group, then shouldn’t you be wanting them to separate entirely into 15 individuals?
https://www.bristolpost.co.uk/news/bristol-news/mum-faces-abuse-parking-busy-8589080
A mum has faced abuse for having to park on a busy A-road after double yellow lines were painted over her usual parking spot. Laura Murray, who lives in Keynsham with her son, originally used the on-street parking on Pixash Lane which was removed in February as part of work to accommodate the new Keynsham Recycling Hub.Now she has been forced to leave her car parked on the busy A4 Bath Road in order to park near her house, but has faced abuse from other drivers. Ms Murray said: “It’s been an absolute nightmare.”
She said: “That’s the only legal place I can park because anywhere else is double yellows. They won’t let me park on the land outside my house because it’s not a dropped kerb and apparently it’s too close to the junction.”
Do you drive?.No, should I?
One torque wrench is no longer sufficient – unless you’ve found one that goes from 0.5Nm to 50Nm. Teeny bolts such as the bleed bolt on the hydraulic brake levers or the front mech push-plate bolt now come with recommended torques settings; the biggest torque needed on a bike is generally 40-50Nm for things like the chainset retension bolt, cassette retainer and disc lockrings.Do you have any press-fit bearings (e.g. in the BB, headset or wheel hubs)? If so, various pullers and presses are essential if you’re going to replace the press fit bearings yourself. Bolt & cup pullers, by the way, are far better than those drifts you hit with a hammer to free press fit bearings.
A slot tool for straightening bent discs could be useful. I have one – but haven’t yet bent a disk, mind.
A wire stripper and electrical connector-squisher tool is good for putting on and taking off the caps used on the ends of bare cables, to stop them unravelling.
I wouldn’t consider a torque wrench “necessary” for things like cassettes that specify 40-50Nm – just do it up about as hard as you can manage easily. Though I do own a large beam style torque wrench for larger torques, I can rarely be bothered to use it. For things like headset and seatpost bolts, I always use a torque wrench as I wouldn’t want to damage a CF frame.
it’s not hard to understand (just see previous comments) but some cyclists can’t be bothered to be considerate just as some car drivers can’t either…. I get it.Well 15 cyclists in a single file is legal as is 15 cars in a single file – legality is irrelevant to the question.
What cyclist behaviour would you think to be considerate and why is a single file not considerate?