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Me, in 2009.
This is why I got booted off the set for Jurassic Park
you messing with HTML tags?Yes. Basic procedure is to put the text format dropdown in “Plain text” mode, add/edit the <img… tag, then put it back in “Filtered HTML” mode before saving. If you add the <img… tag while in “Filtered HTML” mode, it replaces the <> symbols with < and > .
Just use square brackets around the IMG and /IMG instead.
(No subject)
I’m surprised they managed to link to a picture in the main post as in the forum, most have to post a reply to be able to link. I suspect they encoded it directly into the text.If the image is hosted elsewhere then you can just put the URL between IMG tags.
I wouldn’t be too bothered
I wouldn’t be too bothered about wear on the drivetrain as they’re mainly consumables, though you could probably drive down the price if you can show that they need replacing straight away. It’s worth checking that the gears work smoothly without any sign of chain rubbing too.
As well as checking for “play” in the cranks, see if the wheels have any lateral movement as that would indicate worn bearings. Similarly, the front fork/handlebars shouldn’t have any play in them (worn headset bearings) and be able to turn smoothly and easily.
Most important is to check the frame and handlebars for signs of falling damage. If there’s significant scuffing on one side of the handlebar/shifters then it could well have more damage elsewhere. Check the frame for any cracks and possibly tap around the frame to help identify structural damage which would make the purchase unwise. It’s tricky as you can get superficial damage to a frame/paintwork which is not a problem.
Woman who’s had three cars crash into her home this year calls for council to interveneThe council, she says, have told her nothing can be done because there haven’t been any fatal injury collisions and the damage done so far has been to property.
Essex Highways said they are taking the incidents “seriously” and have started working to make the area safer.
Why don’t they just close the road to cars until they can make it safe?
The scene of the crime (2 years ago)I can’t get the arrows to work
Mr “It’s not in anyone’s way” here is a new one on me, but this is a chance to revisit several “I’m prepared to go to court (prison in one case) over this” stories, many of which we’ve had on here. What cars do to people.I get that it’s a crappy operating model, but drivers and their constant bullshit, try-ons and whingeing have brought this on themselves.
How is that not blocking the pavement when there’s not even enough space for him and his dog?
Here’s a question. My race bike has thru-axles. The rear in particular feels like it is seizing against the frame (carbon). Use a dab of carbon grease (not gripper paste) where the head of the thru-axle contacts the frame?I wouldn’t bother. It could well be the paint/finish slightly sticking, but the torque used on a thru-axle should easily persuade the two to part and I doubt that it would lead to any noticeable damage. Also, thru-axles are typically undone relatively frequently to change tyres or give the wheels a good clean so there’s less chance of the CF seizing like with a seatpost. I can’t see a dab of grease there causing any harm, though.
I always thought copaslip was for high temperature applications. Ordinary grease, perhaps lithium based for water resistance in UK, should be fine.If it’s meant to move, then use grease. If it’s not meant to move, then use copaslip. (If it’s carbon fibre then use assembly paste – I’ve heard it can absorb grease and swell which is not great for seatposts).
True as that is, it doesn’t alter the fact that transport links are and always have been vastly different in rural and suburban areas compared to London and bigger cities/towns. Not saying this is you, but it has been clear here that many have a London centric view and no appreciation that it is not the same even in towns bordering London.That’s a good point – I was brought up in London and now live in Bristol, so my view is naturally biased towards cities. However, Bristol doesn’t have good public transport at all, but interestingly, that gap can be quite successfully filled by e-scooters (e.g. VOI) for a lot of journeys.
Have these been mentioned?Copper-based anti-seize stuff (spray or grease).
A spoke tension measuring device
A wheel bearing extraction & instalation kit.
I use a copper anti-seize spray on things like pedal threads or anything else that might see spontaneous metal-gluing i’ the threads but haven’t got a spoke tension measurer or the wheel bearing tools. However ….
I do true wheels (without anything but a spoke key and a temporary summick stuck to the fork or seat stay as a guide) if they show a wobble or if I ever snap a spoke (only three snaps in 64 years cycling, mind – yet all relatively recently). Would a spoke tension measuring device help to avoid flop-wheel or a potential snapper-spoke? I have a suspicion that one pair of inexpensive wheels I have (came with the bike) are not really tight enough in their spoke tensions.
All the wheels I have now use press-fit bearings of various sizes. I even have some spare bearing sets (for Hunt wheels, as they came with one of their “offers”). But so far there seems no sign of wobble, drag or graunch to justify changing any wheel bearings. Surely, though, the time will come?
Has anyone found a wheel bearing kit (for both extraction and press-in) that doesn’t cost well north of £100? I often wish I had a metal-working lathe as it can’t be hard to turn the pressing parts to use for bearing extraction & installation with a length of standard M8 threaded rod and a few M8 nuts.
Copper based grease is a good call – I’m not so keen on a spray version as you typically only want to use a tiny amount in a specific place.
REMINDER – if you’ve got crappy Shimano cheese-head retaining pad pins on your brakes, then check that they haven’t fully seized. (That’s one place where a tiny bit of coppaslip can be helpful)
I’ve got a spoke tensionometer but found it a pain to use when building/truing a wheel, so I just go by feel rather than muck around with it. The problem that I had is that you can end up focussing on trying to get the tensions equal, but often there’s differences in manufacturing tolerances which mean that there’ll be slightly different spoke tensions required to keep the wheel trued.
One of the stipulations of the first major housing development/expansion here was the inlcusion of a dedicated busway linking the development to the two major towns to the east/west. Additional developments have by and large been linked into this, with Amazon building a distribution depot in the area this also was linked and has added the benifit of expaning the service to run 24/7.The issue isn’t “designing towns around the motor car” The issue is that MANY towns and villages in rural, or even as here, urban areas that were designed before the motor car do not have access to public transport in this way and never really have. Towns and villages like this close by were not integated into the new busway and services have actually reduced. Where my parents live in terms of its access has not changed in decades or really even a century or so, but you cannot get a bus there late. The last bus from their nearst train station is 19:28 (weekday).
These issues, and asinine memes are only black and white when you don’t want to look objectively at the bigger picture.
I think a large part of declining public transport is that it’s often run for-profit and it’s not seen as economical to run a lot of rural services. It’s a catch-22 situation as people learn that the public transport is crap/non-existent and so have to rely on getting a car. Once they’ve got a car, they’re going to use it in preference to public transport and so the services don’t see as much demand (and thus profit). The issue with designing housing developments is that they’re often too distant from the shops and services that people require and so they can no longer walk a mile to get to their local doctor surgery etc.
if they were LGBT rainbow ones. I’d consider my hex keys to be male/hetero as they only work properly with female socket bolts etc. but maybe they’re also LGBT allies.maybe they used to be a socket set, before being reforged.
Possibly, but makes little difference to me as long as they’ll still do their job with the female sockets. What’s more of a problem is when the size of male tools are exaggerated – all sizes are equally valid but certain jobs require certain sizes.
But the free hub can just be pulled off and swapped with a new (steel) one. Add a few grams but no more notches from the cassette. no need to build an entire wheel.Yes, but Cugel mentioned the possibility of stripping the centrelock side of the hub